In general, I have a hard time appreciating the virtues of red Bordeaux. It's not that I'm that dedicated to the New World Fruit Bomb; I quite like a number of old world-style wines. It's more likely that, Bordeaux being what it is (and as expensive as it is), I just haven't had very many good ones. There are some delicious, inexpensive Bordeaux out there, I think. Thus far, however, I have been unable to locate one. The Lyonnat is fairly moderate in price ($26), so perhaps it won't take the enamel off my teeth?
It's a deep, deep garnet in the glass, with a touch of pink and orange in the rim. It's still young, but from what I've read this isn't a Bordeaux that's meant to spend 25 years in the cave, so I'm not too concerned. The aromas aren't full, but there is some ripe red cherry, and some distinct earthiness and minerality. Terroir, perhaps?
And in the mouth? Yup. That's a Bordeaux: high acid, high tannin, and a bit bitter as well. This wine isn't doing much to improve my opinion of Bordeaux, I'm afraid. Strictly by the numbers, it's not a bad wine. The structure is certainly there, though I'm not sensing much meat on those bones (despite the fact that merlot is often viewed as the "flesh" in a cabernet sauvignon blend). The viscosity is pretty light and the flavor is a little hollow in the middle. But it seems to open up a bit with time, lending some earthiness on the palette, and the finish evolves some sour cherry towards the end. 84.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux
Price: $26
My rating: 84/100
Monday, December 20, 2010
Sunday, December 19, 2010
2009 Turtle Creek Sauvignon Blanc
I'm going local with my wine selection tonight. Turtle Creek is a vineyard and winery located in Lincoln, Massachusetts, dedicated to making world class wines from V. vinifera. I.e. not made from grapes native to America, or fruits other than grapes. Not that there is anything (much) wrong with native or hybrid grape wines, or apple, pear, and peach wines, but the owner and winemaker, Kip, has studied long and hard to prove that wines made from European varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc can indeed be grown in New England. And I think he has more or less succeeded (though I must point out that he does also purchase grapes from vineyards in California for blending and also for producing varietals that can't be grown here, like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon - they need warmth that we just don't have).
The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....
In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.
This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100
PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.
The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....
In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.
This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100
PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
2006 Vietti Barolo Castiglione
This wine was most definitely a splurge, though since I work in a wine shop it wasn't as expensive as it could have been. But I was on a search for an Italian wine that would compliment some unusual cheeses - namely Taleggio, Pecorino Toscano, and Robiola due Latte - to present as a pairing for a wine studies course I am taking. But even at the full price of $45, this wine is worth every penny.
The aromas are delicate and luscious - milk chocolate, sweet cherries, and violets. Just the perfume I would desire in a nebbiolo. In the mouth, it is certainly muscular and tannic, as nebbiolos tend to be, but the tannins are velvety and refined, not in the least coarse. They coat the mouth in the perfect way to make you yearn for some creamy cheeses or a savory steak. It's perfectly balanced and has a lingering, ethereal finish that most winemakers would give their left pinky for. It will be even better after it ages another year or two.
This is a wine for which I highly encourage you to go out of your way. 93.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Nebbiolo
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Price: $45
My rating: 93/100
The aromas are delicate and luscious - milk chocolate, sweet cherries, and violets. Just the perfume I would desire in a nebbiolo. In the mouth, it is certainly muscular and tannic, as nebbiolos tend to be, but the tannins are velvety and refined, not in the least coarse. They coat the mouth in the perfect way to make you yearn for some creamy cheeses or a savory steak. It's perfectly balanced and has a lingering, ethereal finish that most winemakers would give their left pinky for. It will be even better after it ages another year or two.
This is a wine for which I highly encourage you to go out of your way. 93.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Nebbiolo
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Price: $45
My rating: 93/100
Thursday, December 2, 2010
2010 Santa Ema Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley
Yes, you read correctly - 2010! It's not a beaujolais nouveau, so it must be...South American! Here we have a newly released Chilean sauvignon blanc. It's extremely pale yellow in color, with distinct silver tones. It also has some effervescence to it, though it could be mostly due to the screw cap closure. On the nose, it's fairly classic sauvignon blanc - more New Zealand than France, though. Green grass and mango predominate, with something akin to corn - even corn tortilla - in the background.
It's also quite nice in the mouth. The first impression is just a hint of residual sugar, followed by slight effervescence, pleasant acidity, and tropical fruits. This is an incredibly pleasant wine. The effervescence is making my tongue tingle, which is always fun, and for a $10 wine the finish is incredibly long and juicy. Maybe a bit bitter, but nothing off-putting. Looking forward to trying it with my roasted yellow pepper soup tonight. Thimbs up! 90.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Maipo Valley, Chile
Price: $10
My rating: 90/100
It's also quite nice in the mouth. The first impression is just a hint of residual sugar, followed by slight effervescence, pleasant acidity, and tropical fruits. This is an incredibly pleasant wine. The effervescence is making my tongue tingle, which is always fun, and for a $10 wine the finish is incredibly long and juicy. Maybe a bit bitter, but nothing off-putting. Looking forward to trying it with my roasted yellow pepper soup tonight. Thimbs up! 90.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Maipo Valley, Chile
Price: $10
My rating: 90/100
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
2008 Villa Vallemaggiore Maremma Toscana Campostella
I'm on an Italy kick these days, it seems. This wine, also from Tuscany, is one of the so-called "supertuscans," which essentially means that the winemakers didn't follow the rules set out by the Italian government, thus there wine is not "classifiable." This particular winemaker broke the rules by blending 15% cabernet sauvignon into his or her sangiovese. This often has the effect of taming sangiovese's prevalent acid and tannins, making for a more approachable wine, in the international sense.
This one is a lovely medium crimson in the glass, obviously still quite young as it hasn't taken on any browns or oranges, even towards the rim. I feel like I can sense some of the cabernet sauvignon on the nose, as there is a distinct aroma of currants, some green pepper, and some oak. But in the mouth, this is most definitely a sangiovese. Sour city. The tannins aren't overpowering, but are fairly wooly and unrefined. I would classify this as a "rustic" wine. The finish is short and bitter, and there isn't much in the way of fruit on the palette. A little currant and spice, perhaps, but it isn't pronounced. This wine will be fine with dinner, but I wouldn't just sit down to a glass of it unaccompanied (often how I feel about sangiovese-dominant wines). 83.
This one is a lovely medium crimson in the glass, obviously still quite young as it hasn't taken on any browns or oranges, even towards the rim. I feel like I can sense some of the cabernet sauvignon on the nose, as there is a distinct aroma of currants, some green pepper, and some oak. But in the mouth, this is most definitely a sangiovese. Sour city. The tannins aren't overpowering, but are fairly wooly and unrefined. I would classify this as a "rustic" wine. The finish is short and bitter, and there isn't much in the way of fruit on the palette. A little currant and spice, perhaps, but it isn't pronounced. This wine will be fine with dinner, but I wouldn't just sit down to a glass of it unaccompanied (often how I feel about sangiovese-dominant wines). 83.
Sunday, November 28, 2010
2008 Poderi Sanguineto Rosso di Montepulciano
I am excited to taste this wine, not only because I've heard its praises sung several times, but also because I'm interested to see if I can taste the difference between wine from this bottle and the one I opened at a tasting at the wine shop a couple of weeks ago. Several of the wines at that tasting didn't perform up to expectations, and my colleagues and I wondered if they weren't experiencing some bottle-shock. Bottle-shock is a condition that wines undergo when they're disturbed in some way, such as in a rough transport. The flavors of the wine can become muted or disjointed for a few weeks following a "traumatic even."Some people do not believe that bottle-shock exists, and I haven't had much experience with it. I don't know if I'll be able to conjure up the experience of the wine from a few weeks ago, but we shall see.
The color is a deep garnet, darker than many sangiovese-dominant wines I've seen. But Rosso di Montepulciano is aged in oak at least one year, which can enhance color (and tannin). On the nose, I don't get a whole lot, but what I do get is delicate and perfumey. Some ripe red cherries, vanilla, and candied violets. In the mouth - heavenly! It is delicate but firm, with excellent balance between acid and tannin. It's a little hollow in the middle but the texture is creamy and the flavors are just lovely. There is a hint of juicy sweetness, cocoa, and toasty oak.
This wine is definitely not pure sangiovese - the acid and astringency are far too low. By Italian law, Rosso di Montepulciano must be at least 70%, but other grapes such as canaiolo nero and mammolo can also be added. Whatever blend was used, the wine is delicious, and I'm looking forward to pairing it with the sausage and polenta I have on the stove.
As for the bottle-shock, this wine tastes vastly different than the one I sampled in the shop. I remember a distinct stewed-tomato flavor in that wine, and it definitely lacked the delicacy of the bottle I'm tasting now. Certainly not proof that bottle-shock exists, but very interesting to note, nonetheless.
Recommended! 89.
The color is a deep garnet, darker than many sangiovese-dominant wines I've seen. But Rosso di Montepulciano is aged in oak at least one year, which can enhance color (and tannin). On the nose, I don't get a whole lot, but what I do get is delicate and perfumey. Some ripe red cherries, vanilla, and candied violets. In the mouth - heavenly! It is delicate but firm, with excellent balance between acid and tannin. It's a little hollow in the middle but the texture is creamy and the flavors are just lovely. There is a hint of juicy sweetness, cocoa, and toasty oak.
This wine is definitely not pure sangiovese - the acid and astringency are far too low. By Italian law, Rosso di Montepulciano must be at least 70%, but other grapes such as canaiolo nero and mammolo can also be added. Whatever blend was used, the wine is delicious, and I'm looking forward to pairing it with the sausage and polenta I have on the stove.
As for the bottle-shock, this wine tastes vastly different than the one I sampled in the shop. I remember a distinct stewed-tomato flavor in that wine, and it definitely lacked the delicacy of the bottle I'm tasting now. Certainly not proof that bottle-shock exists, but very interesting to note, nonetheless.
Recommended! 89.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
2006 Paso Creek Merlot Paso Robles
Poor merlot. It has such a bad reputation, ever since that guy in Sideways whose name I can't remember derided it vociferously. But this is a guy who drinks out of a spit bucket. So why do people listen to him??
Merlot is, perhaps, a little out of vogue right now, but it's an estimable wine, one of the varietal foundations of nearly all Bordeaux wines, and the sole grape used in Chateau Petrus, one of the most expensive and revered wines in the world.
This bottle is not Chateau Petrus. I seriously doubt I will ever be in the same room as Petrus, let alone have one in my apartment. But this is a wine from Paso Robles, a place where wine grapes have been grown since the late 1700s. Not bad for the "new world!" The wine in my glass is a deep, vibrant, gorgeous crimson with a tiny pink rim. The aromas are robust and savory, with earth, umami, and something biscuity in the background. And there is also some of that plum that one expects to find in a merlot.
In the mouth, it's a little aggressive - high alcohol and overt sourness make it a prickly and puckersome wine, and there isn't much fruit to balance it out. The wine does have excellent structure with mild but firm tannins, but it's just not a joy to hold it in my mouth. And it doesn't get much better once swallowed. Sourness and a slightly bitterness remain long after any fruit flavors have dissipated.
Not a wine to go out of your way to find. 83.
Merlot is, perhaps, a little out of vogue right now, but it's an estimable wine, one of the varietal foundations of nearly all Bordeaux wines, and the sole grape used in Chateau Petrus, one of the most expensive and revered wines in the world.
This bottle is not Chateau Petrus. I seriously doubt I will ever be in the same room as Petrus, let alone have one in my apartment. But this is a wine from Paso Robles, a place where wine grapes have been grown since the late 1700s. Not bad for the "new world!" The wine in my glass is a deep, vibrant, gorgeous crimson with a tiny pink rim. The aromas are robust and savory, with earth, umami, and something biscuity in the background. And there is also some of that plum that one expects to find in a merlot.
In the mouth, it's a little aggressive - high alcohol and overt sourness make it a prickly and puckersome wine, and there isn't much fruit to balance it out. The wine does have excellent structure with mild but firm tannins, but it's just not a joy to hold it in my mouth. And it doesn't get much better once swallowed. Sourness and a slightly bitterness remain long after any fruit flavors have dissipated.
Not a wine to go out of your way to find. 83.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
2008 Mark West Pinot Noir Sonoma County
This is a wine that does not smell good. It looks ok - a medium-pale ruby with a hint of orange. But it has an animal-like odor, barnyard and cow sweat, and something with a metallic tang, almost like blood. As much as the idea of this puts me off, I'm going to taste it anyway. If I must....
Huh. Not bad at all. I don't get any of the nastiness in the mouth that I got on the nose. The flavors are dominated by ripe cherry, but there is a pleasant earthy quality as well. I get a touch of residual sugar, which, along with the high alcohol content, give the wine a good weight in the mouth. The alcohol might be a touch high, leaving me with a tingly tongue, and I think the grapes might have been a little overripe when they were picked. I suspect this has something to do with the unpleasant aromas, and the fact that the finish evolves into a cooked or dried cherry for me. But all in all, it's quite a nice wine that I'm hoping will stand up to the spicy andouille and black bean soup simmering on the stove.
The foul aromas on the nose certainly detract from my overall enjoyment of the wine, but it certainly wasn't as bad as I was expecting. 82.
Huh. Not bad at all. I don't get any of the nastiness in the mouth that I got on the nose. The flavors are dominated by ripe cherry, but there is a pleasant earthy quality as well. I get a touch of residual sugar, which, along with the high alcohol content, give the wine a good weight in the mouth. The alcohol might be a touch high, leaving me with a tingly tongue, and I think the grapes might have been a little overripe when they were picked. I suspect this has something to do with the unpleasant aromas, and the fact that the finish evolves into a cooked or dried cherry for me. But all in all, it's quite a nice wine that I'm hoping will stand up to the spicy andouille and black bean soup simmering on the stove.
The foul aromas on the nose certainly detract from my overall enjoyment of the wine, but it certainly wasn't as bad as I was expecting. 82.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
2009 Pascal Granger Julienas Crus de Beaujolais
This wine smells like warm blueberries and cream. The universe should provide a choir of angels (or at least oblidge with someone playing Puccini with their windows open) whenever someone pops the cork on a bottle of this beaujolais. Beaujolais can have a bad reputation, often due to the grape popsicle fruitiness of the beaujolais you're likely to find on a supermarket shelf. This wine is the Stradivarius to Georges Dubeouf's plastic ukelele.
OK, perhaps I should taste the wine before I oversell it based on the aromas alone. It's also quite gorgeous in the mouth. Unlike most Beaujolais, I think this wine could actually benefit from another year or two in the bottle. It's quite delicious now, though, with tannins and acidity perfectly in harmony with the red berries, which are luscious, but not at all overpowering. I even get a little prickle on the tongue that could be a hint of pleasant effervescence. This wine is a superstar, and would be perfect - and I'm not just saying this because Thanksgiving is a week from tomorrow - with a big turkey dinner with cranberries and stuffing. Absolutely perfect. 91.
OK, perhaps I should taste the wine before I oversell it based on the aromas alone. It's also quite gorgeous in the mouth. Unlike most Beaujolais, I think this wine could actually benefit from another year or two in the bottle. It's quite delicious now, though, with tannins and acidity perfectly in harmony with the red berries, which are luscious, but not at all overpowering. I even get a little prickle on the tongue that could be a hint of pleasant effervescence. This wine is a superstar, and would be perfect - and I'm not just saying this because Thanksgiving is a week from tomorrow - with a big turkey dinner with cranberries and stuffing. Absolutely perfect. 91.
Saturday, November 13, 2010
2007 Dr. Burklin-Wolf Riesling QbA Pfalz Bürklin Estate
I didn't really feel like posting tonight, nor was I planning on opening another bottle of wine. But I ended up making some shrimp scampi that required me to open a bottle of white, and all I had on hand was this German riesling. I still wasn't planning on posting, but it turns out this wine is just too good not to share.
It's darker in color than I would expect from a German riesling, pure gold with a real brightness to it. The aromas do feature some of that petrol that rieslings often have (even though the Germans claim theirs never do), but there is more peach and caramel than anything else. I want to inhale this wine. The aromas are gorgeous.
And it's just as beautiful in the mouth. A tiny bit sweet, as many (but not all!) rieslings are, but with perfectly balanced acidity and fruit, and a medium-weighty mouthfeel which is just luxurious. The alcohol is higher than many German rieslings, likely because it comes from Pfalz, which is on the warmer side for riesling, but the wine is by no means "hot" in the mouth. The flavors in the mouth certainly include peach, but also something that I can only describe as muskmelon, which you probably don't know unless you're from Iowa. It's delicious, and I can't say enough good things about it. 90.
It's darker in color than I would expect from a German riesling, pure gold with a real brightness to it. The aromas do feature some of that petrol that rieslings often have (even though the Germans claim theirs never do), but there is more peach and caramel than anything else. I want to inhale this wine. The aromas are gorgeous.
And it's just as beautiful in the mouth. A tiny bit sweet, as many (but not all!) rieslings are, but with perfectly balanced acidity and fruit, and a medium-weighty mouthfeel which is just luxurious. The alcohol is higher than many German rieslings, likely because it comes from Pfalz, which is on the warmer side for riesling, but the wine is by no means "hot" in the mouth. The flavors in the mouth certainly include peach, but also something that I can only describe as muskmelon, which you probably don't know unless you're from Iowa. It's delicious, and I can't say enough good things about it. 90.
Friday, November 12, 2010
2002 St-Cosme Cote-Rotie
2002 was a disastrously bad year in France's Rhone Valley. It was cool and rainy, making for unripe, water-logged grapes. The wines tend to be herbal and rustic, and not very tasty. For that reason, I was able to buy a wine for $30 that would probably be going for $60 or more. I love saving money! The trade-off, of course, it that the wine could be disgusting.
It's a dark crimson at the core, lightening to brown and orange towards the rim of the glass. This is to be expected for an 8-year-old wine, as red wines tend to get lighter and more brown with age. The aromas do put me in mind of some herby green things, most particularly tobacco and green pepper, but more than that I get earthiness, molasses, and even some red cherry.
In the mouth...hoooooooooo, that's sour! Holy. Moses. It's like sucking on a cherry-flavored lemon. Given that I have been known to suck on lemons, this is not necessarily a bad thing for me, but I expect the general populace wouldn't agree. The tannins are more refined than I was expecting, and there is some smoke and cherry (make that sour cherry) flavor, but the wine is thin in texture and acid really does overwhelm everything. The finish is surprisingly long and pleasant, with evolving earth and smoke, which makes me want to take another sip even though I know what is in store.
All in all, I have to agree with the estimation that 2002 Rhone wines are not to be sought out, and are probably past their drinking peak at this time. More time in the bottle probably isn't going to help this sucker. But it wasn't awful, and I expect that I would really like a more favorable vintage of this wine. You know, if I could afford one. 82.
It's a dark crimson at the core, lightening to brown and orange towards the rim of the glass. This is to be expected for an 8-year-old wine, as red wines tend to get lighter and more brown with age. The aromas do put me in mind of some herby green things, most particularly tobacco and green pepper, but more than that I get earthiness, molasses, and even some red cherry.
In the mouth...hoooooooooo, that's sour! Holy. Moses. It's like sucking on a cherry-flavored lemon. Given that I have been known to suck on lemons, this is not necessarily a bad thing for me, but I expect the general populace wouldn't agree. The tannins are more refined than I was expecting, and there is some smoke and cherry (make that sour cherry) flavor, but the wine is thin in texture and acid really does overwhelm everything. The finish is surprisingly long and pleasant, with evolving earth and smoke, which makes me want to take another sip even though I know what is in store.
All in all, I have to agree with the estimation that 2002 Rhone wines are not to be sought out, and are probably past their drinking peak at this time. More time in the bottle probably isn't going to help this sucker. But it wasn't awful, and I expect that I would really like a more favorable vintage of this wine. You know, if I could afford one. 82.
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
2009 Haut-Marin Cuvée Marine Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne
The name is a mouthful - and I'm hoping the wine will be, too! This is a very inexpensive French white blend of, frankly, some pretty inauspicious grapes. Colombard and Ugni Blanc are much more often found in a jug than a bottle. But I've heard great things about this wine, that it's reminiscent of a sauvignon blanc, so I thought I'd give it a try.
In the glass, the color certainly looks like a sauvignon blanc - bright yellow with a touch of green. The aromas aren't strong, but they are very fresh - like a metal pail full of rainwater, and some tangy lemon, too. There is lemon on the palatte as well, along with very well-balanced acidity an alcohol (not an easy feat in a warm region like southwest France). It's a little hollow on the mid-palatte, and not terribly complex with some bitterness evolving on the finish, but overall it's a delicious wine. And at $10 a bottle, I could easily make this my "house wine," were I a restauranteur. 86.
In the glass, the color certainly looks like a sauvignon blanc - bright yellow with a touch of green. The aromas aren't strong, but they are very fresh - like a metal pail full of rainwater, and some tangy lemon, too. There is lemon on the palatte as well, along with very well-balanced acidity an alcohol (not an easy feat in a warm region like southwest France). It's a little hollow on the mid-palatte, and not terribly complex with some bitterness evolving on the finish, but overall it's a delicious wine. And at $10 a bottle, I could easily make this my "house wine," were I a restauranteur. 86.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
2009 Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
I'm having a really hard time sensing the aromas of this New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Not because it is not aromatic - I can tell that it is - but I'm making a Cobb Salad to go along with it, and all I can smell is bacon. After locking myself in the bathroom, I was able to detect that telltale tropical fruit and green grass aroma that I absolutely love about New Zealand sauvignon blancs. There is mango and tamarind and fresh green tomato. Lovely! The color is classic straw, and very bright to the eye.
I tasted it, and my first thought is..."Mmmm! This is a damn good wine for $9!" Seriously, $9! I think it was on sale, but still. This is a fantastic value. The aromas carry over strongly to the palate. There is some residual sugar, that brings along the sweet green tomato flavor, but it's not at all sweet. The acid is not particularly high or mouth-watering, though it seems mostly in balance with the sweetness and alcohol, and it has a surprisingly long finish, evolving sweetness and tamarind. There is even a bit of spritz on the tongue, maybe due to the screw cap; it's very pleasant. I think the only thing I would say needs some improvement is the acidity; it's just low enough to leave the wine lacking a little structure. 88!
I tasted it, and my first thought is..."Mmmm! This is a damn good wine for $9!" Seriously, $9! I think it was on sale, but still. This is a fantastic value. The aromas carry over strongly to the palate. There is some residual sugar, that brings along the sweet green tomato flavor, but it's not at all sweet. The acid is not particularly high or mouth-watering, though it seems mostly in balance with the sweetness and alcohol, and it has a surprisingly long finish, evolving sweetness and tamarind. There is even a bit of spritz on the tongue, maybe due to the screw cap; it's very pleasant. I think the only thing I would say needs some improvement is the acidity; it's just low enough to leave the wine lacking a little structure. 88!
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc North Coast
I've seen lots of bottles of Clos du Bois sitting on shelves, in peoples' fridges, even on wine lists. It's a ubiquitous wine - that I've never tasted! So, I thought I'd give it a whirl with the Sonoma north coast sauvignon blanc. It could be awful, it could be a great find...we shall see.
The color is right for a sauvignon blanc, a medium-pale yellow with a flash of green; sort of a straw color. The nose isn't saying much to me. There is some honeydew melon, some honeysuckle, and a bit of a yeasty smell (though I doubt this wine spends much time sitting on the lees), but it's very faint.
In the mouth...it's surprisingly pleasant! Sometimes mass-produced sauvignon blancs take on an off-putting bitterness and something I can't really describe except to say that it's kind of chemically. This doesn't have that. It also doesn't have a ton of acidity, probably because it hails from a relatively warm region, so it's a little flabby. But it actually has a bit of spritz (effervescence) and a nice weight to it, so is rather nice on the palette. I do get some pretty substantial alcohol burn (again, the warm climate at work). Whew! Ever put rubbing alcohol on a cut? Well, don't put this wine in your mouth if you have a canker sore. Trust me.
So the wine isn't particularly balanced in its elements, and the lack of aroma does detract from the overall enjoyment. Is it worth th $14 I paid for it? Eh, maybe. Is it worth drinking if someone hands you a glass? Sure. It would be good for pairing with an all veggie dinner, I think. I give it an 81.
The color is right for a sauvignon blanc, a medium-pale yellow with a flash of green; sort of a straw color. The nose isn't saying much to me. There is some honeydew melon, some honeysuckle, and a bit of a yeasty smell (though I doubt this wine spends much time sitting on the lees), but it's very faint.
In the mouth...it's surprisingly pleasant! Sometimes mass-produced sauvignon blancs take on an off-putting bitterness and something I can't really describe except to say that it's kind of chemically. This doesn't have that. It also doesn't have a ton of acidity, probably because it hails from a relatively warm region, so it's a little flabby. But it actually has a bit of spritz (effervescence) and a nice weight to it, so is rather nice on the palette. I do get some pretty substantial alcohol burn (again, the warm climate at work). Whew! Ever put rubbing alcohol on a cut? Well, don't put this wine in your mouth if you have a canker sore. Trust me.
So the wine isn't particularly balanced in its elements, and the lack of aroma does detract from the overall enjoyment. Is it worth th $14 I paid for it? Eh, maybe. Is it worth drinking if someone hands you a glass? Sure. It would be good for pairing with an all veggie dinner, I think. I give it an 81.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
2009 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Mendoza Santa Julia Reserva
Recently, I wrote about a malbec from the same producer, Familia Zuccardi, out of Mendoza, Argentina. The wine now in my glass is from a separate product line, Santa Julia. Unfortunately, I don't know what's different about it, except that it costs less, because the website is in Spanish and I can't understand what it says. (My 1/2 a semester of Spanish classes just doesn't cut it.)
The wine has the same vibrant violet hue in the glass; it's young - a 2009 - and it looks it. The aroma isn't as powerful and complex as the Zuccardi I tasted a few weeks ago, though I do get some lovely raspberries, some cocoa and toast. It's also not as impressive in the mouth as the other. It's overly sour and bitter, without the benefit of any delicious, juicy fruits on the palette. Zuccardi definitely saved their good grapes for the other wine. These taste unripe and just not very pleasant. I don't think any more time in the bottle would help it; though it might open up a bit, I think it will remain unbalanced. Eh...81.
The wine has the same vibrant violet hue in the glass; it's young - a 2009 - and it looks it. The aroma isn't as powerful and complex as the Zuccardi I tasted a few weeks ago, though I do get some lovely raspberries, some cocoa and toast. It's also not as impressive in the mouth as the other. It's overly sour and bitter, without the benefit of any delicious, juicy fruits on the palette. Zuccardi definitely saved their good grapes for the other wine. These taste unripe and just not very pleasant. I don't think any more time in the bottle would help it; though it might open up a bit, I think it will remain unbalanced. Eh...81.
Thursday, October 28, 2010
2007 Los Maquis Calcu Colchagua Valley
Chile, reportedly, has one of the most ideal climates and situations for great winemaking in the world. And land is cheap, so everybody and their uncle is making wine. A lot of the wine is great, and very inexpensive to purchase. But I've noticed that, on more than one occasion, I've smelled some...unfortunate....aromas wafting from a glass of Chilean wine. For example, the sauvignon blanc that smelled like a farm shed (tractor oil, livestock, and rotting vegetation). This is not to say that all Chilean wines smell like yuck, but...it's an observation.
The wine I'm tasting today, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, has a very appealing dark garnet color in the glass. A little cloudy, which is unusual in these days when most wines are expected to be clear and without sediment, but doesn't mean anything is wrong with the wine.
I admit my nose to the glass and...grape popsicle and POOP. Okay, so professional winetasters don't say poop. They say "barnyard" or "manure." Actually in this case, barnyard might be quite appropriate, as not only does the wine smell like ordure, but there's also a hearty whiff of decaying vegetation. This is not a happy-smelling wine. So, let's try it in the mouth (if I must).....
Better. Whew. Good balance between the bracing acidity and the moderate but refined tannins. It's medium in body, a little "hot" - meaning that the alcohol is a little high and isn't quite in balance with the other elements in the wine - and a bit lacking in complexity and concentration. There is a hint of the aroma that carries over to the palate, but it comes across more as just overripe black cherry, rather than actual rot.
So, if you can get past the poop on the nose (ew), it's an okay wine. But...why would you want to drink something that smells like a barnyard? I give it an 80.
The wine I'm tasting today, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, has a very appealing dark garnet color in the glass. A little cloudy, which is unusual in these days when most wines are expected to be clear and without sediment, but doesn't mean anything is wrong with the wine.
I admit my nose to the glass and...grape popsicle and POOP. Okay, so professional winetasters don't say poop. They say "barnyard" or "manure." Actually in this case, barnyard might be quite appropriate, as not only does the wine smell like ordure, but there's also a hearty whiff of decaying vegetation. This is not a happy-smelling wine. So, let's try it in the mouth (if I must).....
Better. Whew. Good balance between the bracing acidity and the moderate but refined tannins. It's medium in body, a little "hot" - meaning that the alcohol is a little high and isn't quite in balance with the other elements in the wine - and a bit lacking in complexity and concentration. There is a hint of the aroma that carries over to the palate, but it comes across more as just overripe black cherry, rather than actual rot.
So, if you can get past the poop on the nose (ew), it's an okay wine. But...why would you want to drink something that smells like a barnyard? I give it an 80.
Friday, October 22, 2010
2007 Mad Bay Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Oh, those crazy Australians, first I find Madfish Bay, now just Mad Bay...who can be mad when there is wine to be tasted (even if you are a fish!)?
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, its father Cabernet Franc, and Merlot (the flesh on the bones) is a classic Bordeaux combination, but transported far south to Australia. The grapes come from an area of Western Australia, Margaret River, that is often described as having a similar climate as Bordeaux. The color of this resultant wine is a vibrant, dark ruby with just a little orange starting at the rim, indicating the some aging. The aroma is far more Bordeaux-like than I was expecting. Even with the same blend of grapes, "New World" wines tend to be fruitier and fleshier than most austere terroir-driven Bordeaux wines. But this wine has earthy notes of dried grass and a forest in the fall, with just a hint of blackcurrant in the background.
In the mouth, it's not quite as pleasant. It finishes well, with a nice blend of grassy and blackfruit flavors, and a bit of cocoa powder, but these only evolve after your tastebuds are rather assaulted with acid and bitterness. Frankly, I've had this experience with Bordeaux in the past, so perhaps the winemakers were merely striving for regional authenticity? What it lacks that Bordeaux tends to have in abundance is tannin. Only the faintest hint of astringency is there, which may be why the acid is beating me over the head - there's not much there to balance it out.
So, the finish makes it a drinkable wine, but I think these grapes could have used a little more time on the vine and/or a warmer growing season so they could develop more sugars and the phenolic ripeness they crave and dispense with some of that acid. And it needs to be consumed with lots of soft cheese. I give it an 84.
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, its father Cabernet Franc, and Merlot (the flesh on the bones) is a classic Bordeaux combination, but transported far south to Australia. The grapes come from an area of Western Australia, Margaret River, that is often described as having a similar climate as Bordeaux. The color of this resultant wine is a vibrant, dark ruby with just a little orange starting at the rim, indicating the some aging. The aroma is far more Bordeaux-like than I was expecting. Even with the same blend of grapes, "New World" wines tend to be fruitier and fleshier than most austere terroir-driven Bordeaux wines. But this wine has earthy notes of dried grass and a forest in the fall, with just a hint of blackcurrant in the background.
In the mouth, it's not quite as pleasant. It finishes well, with a nice blend of grassy and blackfruit flavors, and a bit of cocoa powder, but these only evolve after your tastebuds are rather assaulted with acid and bitterness. Frankly, I've had this experience with Bordeaux in the past, so perhaps the winemakers were merely striving for regional authenticity? What it lacks that Bordeaux tends to have in abundance is tannin. Only the faintest hint of astringency is there, which may be why the acid is beating me over the head - there's not much there to balance it out.
So, the finish makes it a drinkable wine, but I think these grapes could have used a little more time on the vine and/or a warmer growing season so they could develop more sugars and the phenolic ripeness they crave and dispense with some of that acid. And it needs to be consumed with lots of soft cheese. I give it an 84.
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
2008 Bodegas San Valero Juice Banger Tempranillo Garnacha
As you might guess - I bought this wine because of its name. It also has a pretty rocking label, and - even though I know all too well that a great label does not a great wine make - it still worked its marketing magic on me. So let's see how it worked out!
The color is a medium ruby red with a young, pinkish rim. The aroma is fruity, with some cream, smoky black pepper, and strawberries (that' s the garnacha talking). That may sound odd, but one of the most delicious of the many bars of chocolate I've eaten in my life contained both strawberries and black pepper. Whoever discovered that combination was a crazy genius.
In the mouth, the wine is just plain delicious. There is the right amount of acidity and tannin to give the wine bones, but not overpower the fruit. The first sensation I noted upon tasting was cream. The texture is creamy, though not thick, as is the flavor. A bit of bitterness evolves on the tail end, but quickly gives way to strawberry for a satisfying finish. The only fault I find with this pleasant, easy-drinking wine is that it's a bit hollow midpalate. By that I mean that I'm feeling the tannins and acidity on the sides of my mouth and tongue, but in the middle where I want complex flavors and fruit, I'm just not getting much of note.
For $10, this wine is a fantastic value, and is light enough in texture and flavor that you could drink it with just about anything that has some substance (i.e. probably not cod). This wine may very well be present on my Thanksgiving table! I give it an 89.
The color is a medium ruby red with a young, pinkish rim. The aroma is fruity, with some cream, smoky black pepper, and strawberries (that' s the garnacha talking). That may sound odd, but one of the most delicious of the many bars of chocolate I've eaten in my life contained both strawberries and black pepper. Whoever discovered that combination was a crazy genius.
In the mouth, the wine is just plain delicious. There is the right amount of acidity and tannin to give the wine bones, but not overpower the fruit. The first sensation I noted upon tasting was cream. The texture is creamy, though not thick, as is the flavor. A bit of bitterness evolves on the tail end, but quickly gives way to strawberry for a satisfying finish. The only fault I find with this pleasant, easy-drinking wine is that it's a bit hollow midpalate. By that I mean that I'm feeling the tannins and acidity on the sides of my mouth and tongue, but in the middle where I want complex flavors and fruit, I'm just not getting much of note.
For $10, this wine is a fantastic value, and is light enough in texture and flavor that you could drink it with just about anything that has some substance (i.e. probably not cod). This wine may very well be present on my Thanksgiving table! I give it an 89.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
2005 Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Marina Cvetic San Martino Rosso
I'm sure there there is not-so-good Montepulciano d'Abruzzo out there - but I can't recall ever having one. Of course, I don't remember much about any wines I tasted before I really learned to taste. But this wine from Masciarelli certainly upholds my vision of Montelpulciano as a delicious wine.
It's dark, dark, dark in the glass, in fact a completely opaque ruby. Luckily I gave it a sniff before the chicken roasting in the often started to overpower it (wine may smell like many thinks, but chicken isn't generally a desired aroma). There are dark chocolate-covered cherries in this glass, some earth as well, though the aroma isn't intense - it's clear, but like I'm smelling it from far away, as a member of my tasting group said today (about a different wine). The chocolate is likely the influence of oak-aging, which can also impart vanilla, toasty, buttery, and caramel aromas and tastes, depending on the age of the barrel, the grape varietal, the level of charring in the oak, etc.
I think part of the reason I can't get a lot of aroma out of the wine (which is also making it hard to taste much) is that...it's really cold in my apartment and I think the wine would be a lot more expressive if I bit the bullet and turned up the heat. But....I'd rather spend my money on wine than gas bills....
The palate is quite dominated by some firm, scratchy tannins, which I think would have mellowed out a bit if I had opened the wine a year ot two from now. Right now, they're making my lips stick to my teeth and I'm wishing that chicken would hurry up and roast so I had something to eat with the wine. Ooooh, or maybe some nice pasta with marinara and spicy sausages....mmmmmmm.... The wine also has some pronounced acid that is making me pucker, but it's fairly well balanced out by some juicy red fruit and - believe it or not - black olives - on the finish.
Overall, a wine with excellent structure and potential to pair really well with a rich, Italian dish. By itself, the acid and tannins are kind of hurting me. Must go in search of cheese. I give it an 84.
It's dark, dark, dark in the glass, in fact a completely opaque ruby. Luckily I gave it a sniff before the chicken roasting in the often started to overpower it (wine may smell like many thinks, but chicken isn't generally a desired aroma). There are dark chocolate-covered cherries in this glass, some earth as well, though the aroma isn't intense - it's clear, but like I'm smelling it from far away, as a member of my tasting group said today (about a different wine). The chocolate is likely the influence of oak-aging, which can also impart vanilla, toasty, buttery, and caramel aromas and tastes, depending on the age of the barrel, the grape varietal, the level of charring in the oak, etc.
I think part of the reason I can't get a lot of aroma out of the wine (which is also making it hard to taste much) is that...it's really cold in my apartment and I think the wine would be a lot more expressive if I bit the bullet and turned up the heat. But....I'd rather spend my money on wine than gas bills....
The palate is quite dominated by some firm, scratchy tannins, which I think would have mellowed out a bit if I had opened the wine a year ot two from now. Right now, they're making my lips stick to my teeth and I'm wishing that chicken would hurry up and roast so I had something to eat with the wine. Ooooh, or maybe some nice pasta with marinara and spicy sausages....mmmmmmm.... The wine also has some pronounced acid that is making me pucker, but it's fairly well balanced out by some juicy red fruit and - believe it or not - black olives - on the finish.
Overall, a wine with excellent structure and potential to pair really well with a rich, Italian dish. By itself, the acid and tannins are kind of hurting me. Must go in search of cheese. I give it an 84.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
2009 Four Sisters Sauvignon Blanc Central Victoria
I'm often suspicious of Australian white wines. Far, far too many that I have tasted have had an overwhelming quality of...rubber. I don't know if it's the heat, the sun, the soil, or some other element of terroir, but I just don't enjoy drinking something that tastes like a hose.
There a bit of a latexy aroma here, but far more prevalent is the telltale "green" smells of a sauvignon blanc. In fact, when I sniffed it first, I thought "greenhouse!" There are leaves and flowers here, as well as a sort of white peppery quality that I puzzled over quite some time before realizing it was basil. In fact, Thai basil to be overly specific. Who would have thought?!.
There's a bit of sweetness on the palate, though it's by no means a "sweet wine" (after the Pedro Ximinez sherry I tasted last night, maple syrup seems merely "off dry" - like drinking pureed raisins, it was). Besides the sugar, the first thing I noticed was a lack of acidity. My mouth just wasn't watering. These two things can go hand in hand. In a warm climate, which Central Victoria can be, grapes can ripen to produce exquisite levels of sugar (sometimes too much for the yeast to ferment before they poison themselves with alcohol, thus leaving some "residual sugar" in the finished wine), but often at the expense of acidity, which decreases over time.
The bottle is sitting across the room and I don't feel like getting up to look at the alcohol content, but I would expect it's pretty high, given the prickling at the back of my mouth. Between that and the sugar, the wine has a fairly high viscosity and a very smooth, silky texture. Extremely pleasant, indeed! There is some prominent fruit on the palette as well, which has a slight bitterness that puts me in mind of grapefruit. Overall, it's a pleasant wine, and a good value one as well; it just lacks a bit of the acid structure that could have taken it to the next level. And the bitterness of the grapefruit on the palette becomes more like "rind" than "fruit" as the wine evolves in my mouth. So, eh. I'd give it an 82.
There a bit of a latexy aroma here, but far more prevalent is the telltale "green" smells of a sauvignon blanc. In fact, when I sniffed it first, I thought "greenhouse!" There are leaves and flowers here, as well as a sort of white peppery quality that I puzzled over quite some time before realizing it was basil. In fact, Thai basil to be overly specific. Who would have thought?!.
There's a bit of sweetness on the palate, though it's by no means a "sweet wine" (after the Pedro Ximinez sherry I tasted last night, maple syrup seems merely "off dry" - like drinking pureed raisins, it was). Besides the sugar, the first thing I noticed was a lack of acidity. My mouth just wasn't watering. These two things can go hand in hand. In a warm climate, which Central Victoria can be, grapes can ripen to produce exquisite levels of sugar (sometimes too much for the yeast to ferment before they poison themselves with alcohol, thus leaving some "residual sugar" in the finished wine), but often at the expense of acidity, which decreases over time.
The bottle is sitting across the room and I don't feel like getting up to look at the alcohol content, but I would expect it's pretty high, given the prickling at the back of my mouth. Between that and the sugar, the wine has a fairly high viscosity and a very smooth, silky texture. Extremely pleasant, indeed! There is some prominent fruit on the palette as well, which has a slight bitterness that puts me in mind of grapefruit. Overall, it's a pleasant wine, and a good value one as well; it just lacks a bit of the acid structure that could have taken it to the next level. And the bitterness of the grapefruit on the palette becomes more like "rind" than "fruit" as the wine evolves in my mouth. So, eh. I'd give it an 82.
Monday, October 11, 2010
2008 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Mendoza Serie A
Violet violet violet. Just as a good malbec should be, this wine is opauely violet; when I swirl the glass, a noticeably purple sheen is left behind even when the wine settles back into the bowl. The nose is sensuous and striking with vanilla custard and raspberries, and - this sounds weird but - creamed corn. Big yum. (Good thing, because I swirled so vigorously, I sloshed it all over my pants.)
In the mouth, the wine is still silky and creamy (obviously a happy marriage between the grapes and the toasty barrel here). The acidity doesn't stand up and shout "hello!" but is very well balanced with the velvety tannins and tingly alochol. It has a medium-full body and some juicy concentrated blueberry pie and a hint of black pepper on the palette, and a finish that lingers for minutes. All around a delicious wine. I could drink this every day!
Argentina does it again! I give it a 91. A first, I think!
In the mouth, the wine is still silky and creamy (obviously a happy marriage between the grapes and the toasty barrel here). The acidity doesn't stand up and shout "hello!" but is very well balanced with the velvety tannins and tingly alochol. It has a medium-full body and some juicy concentrated blueberry pie and a hint of black pepper on the palette, and a finish that lingers for minutes. All around a delicious wine. I could drink this every day!
Argentina does it again! I give it a 91. A first, I think!
Thursday, September 30, 2010
2005 Spier Shiraz-Mourvdre-Viognier Western Cape Vintage Selection
The blend of grapes is French (Rhone, to be precise), but the wine is actually from South Africa. Shiraz (only called this in South Africa and Australia - everywhere else it's known as Syrah), Mourvedre, and Viognier (a white grape often blended in with other grapes for its highly aromatic nature) aren't necessarily blended together in the Rhone, but they're all grown there, and I can see where Spier came up with idea of combining them.
Shiraz and Mourvedre share a gaminess, with complimentary red fruits. Shiraz/Syrah is frequently blended with Viognier in the Northern Rhone. They all "like" warmer growing conditions. And they've certainly made a nice wine here.
As a good Shiraz should, this wine has a deep, inky garnet color, with plenty of black pepper, earth, vanilla, and cassis on the nose. There's also an undercurrent of slate and some pronounced cocoa. The cocoa, cassis, and some mellow smoke carry over onto the palate, along with well-balanced acidity and fairly refined tannins. The texture is a little coarse, likely due to the high alcohol (15% ABV! Ouch! though totally characteristic of the grape varietals involved and the Mediterranean climate of the Western Cape). But the wine has quite a long finish and the flavors on the palate continue to evolve in the mouth after the wine has been swallowed (no spitting here!).
Overall, a recommended wine. It's not super cheap ($15-$20), but it's certainly worth the money, I give it an 87.
Shiraz and Mourvedre share a gaminess, with complimentary red fruits. Shiraz/Syrah is frequently blended with Viognier in the Northern Rhone. They all "like" warmer growing conditions. And they've certainly made a nice wine here.
As a good Shiraz should, this wine has a deep, inky garnet color, with plenty of black pepper, earth, vanilla, and cassis on the nose. There's also an undercurrent of slate and some pronounced cocoa. The cocoa, cassis, and some mellow smoke carry over onto the palate, along with well-balanced acidity and fairly refined tannins. The texture is a little coarse, likely due to the high alcohol (15% ABV! Ouch! though totally characteristic of the grape varietals involved and the Mediterranean climate of the Western Cape). But the wine has quite a long finish and the flavors on the palate continue to evolve in the mouth after the wine has been swallowed (no spitting here!).
Overall, a recommended wine. It's not super cheap ($15-$20), but it's certainly worth the money, I give it an 87.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Disclaimer
Just so my (2) faithful readers don't think I'm a complete drunk, or a wasteful sot, I would like that tonight I am making Boeuf Vigneronne with all of the "bottle ends" of the wines I'm tasting and posting about. After a day or so has passed, most wines lose their appeal to me (now that I'm more of a snob than ever) - especially the reds. To rather than trying to consume a bottle of wine a day, or pouring a lot of wine (and money) down the drain, I reserve whatever I don't drink for cooking purposes. I have a 3/4 bottle of one (the Greek - hoping cooking it will give it some flavor) and a 1/4 of another, so...into the kettle they go with a pot roast and some herbs and pearl onions! Wish me luck!
Friday, September 24, 2010
2007 Hedges CMS White Columbia Valley
The CMS in this wine's name refers to the three white grapes in the blend: Chardonnay, Marsanne, and Sauvignon Blanc. True to the origins of these grapes, the wine appears to be made in the old world, French style - without aging in oak barrels - as many new world Chardonnays (and some Marsannes) are. This explains the very faint aromas displayed by this wine. I get a bit of green wood or hay, maybe a little green apple. Chardonnay is known for lacking strong aroma (one of the reasons oak is so often used); not true of the other two, which I thought might indicate that Chardonnay is the dominant grape in the blend (it's not - the wine is 64% Sauvignon Blanc).
I've heard good things about earlier vintages of this wine, but I'm not terribly impressed by this one. In addition to the wimpy nose, it's not a wine that grabs hold of the palette, either. It has a noticeable lack of acidity, which, when paired with the relatively high levels of residual sugar and alcohol, leave you with a wine of substantial body but not much structure to support it. I've heard Marsanne referred to as the Falstaff of white grapes. The analogy certainly holds true in this case: plenty of heft, but lacking the fortitude to follow through.
2007 was a particularly hot summer in Washington state, I believe, which goes quite a way towards explaining the high sugar and alcohol, and the low acidity, as warm temperatures tend to increase sugar levels, while acid levels decline. It does carry some nice, juicy fruit on the palette, though the green apple is opposed by a kind of bitter grapefruit rind that isn't entirely appealing.
The wine isn't faulted, but there's not much there there, really. I give it an 80. Meh.
I've heard good things about earlier vintages of this wine, but I'm not terribly impressed by this one. In addition to the wimpy nose, it's not a wine that grabs hold of the palette, either. It has a noticeable lack of acidity, which, when paired with the relatively high levels of residual sugar and alcohol, leave you with a wine of substantial body but not much structure to support it. I've heard Marsanne referred to as the Falstaff of white grapes. The analogy certainly holds true in this case: plenty of heft, but lacking the fortitude to follow through.
2007 was a particularly hot summer in Washington state, I believe, which goes quite a way towards explaining the high sugar and alcohol, and the low acidity, as warm temperatures tend to increase sugar levels, while acid levels decline. It does carry some nice, juicy fruit on the palette, though the green apple is opposed by a kind of bitter grapefruit rind that isn't entirely appealing.
The wine isn't faulted, but there's not much there there, really. I give it an 80. Meh.
Monday, September 20, 2010
2006 Collin-Bourissset Cotes du Rhone Reserve de la Closerie
I picked this wine up at the store tonight for 2 reasons: 1) It was on sale. 2) I'm intrigued by the somewhat suspect provenance of this wine. Collin-Bourisset is a fairly prolific (admittedly somewhat scattered) Burgundian winery. Or so I thought.... So why have they produced a Cotes du Rhone? And why is it bottled in Burgundy? Turns out that, in addition to wines from their own vineyards, Collin-Bourisset also trades wines from a number of other French regions. So, still a little suspect, but mystery at least partially solved.
My second clue that this was not a Burgundy (after the label, of course), was the color. Much deeper than a pinot noir and not nearly as purple as a beaujolais. Quite a lovely ruby red, just paling to orange at the rim. The nose is ripe with red currant, caramel, and a hint of black pepper and smoke.
The aromas don't really carry over to the palate, although the finish is quite long and has some developing fruit. The structure is balanced and strong, with enough acid to make your mouth water, but not enough to cause any puckering, which is exactly what I expect from a Cotes du Rhone. The tannins are present, but soft and pleasant. Although it's not complex in flavor and is a little hollow in the middle, overall it's a very nice sipping wine and would go really well with roasted chicken and root vegetables (it's possible I think that because there is a lovely rotisserie chicken waiting for me in the chicken, but I do believe it will be a good match)! I give it an 84.
My second clue that this was not a Burgundy (after the label, of course), was the color. Much deeper than a pinot noir and not nearly as purple as a beaujolais. Quite a lovely ruby red, just paling to orange at the rim. The nose is ripe with red currant, caramel, and a hint of black pepper and smoke.
The aromas don't really carry over to the palate, although the finish is quite long and has some developing fruit. The structure is balanced and strong, with enough acid to make your mouth water, but not enough to cause any puckering, which is exactly what I expect from a Cotes du Rhone. The tannins are present, but soft and pleasant. Although it's not complex in flavor and is a little hollow in the middle, overall it's a very nice sipping wine and would go really well with roasted chicken and root vegetables (it's possible I think that because there is a lovely rotisserie chicken waiting for me in the chicken, but I do believe it will be a good match)! I give it an 84.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
2006 Gaia Agiorgitiko Péloponnèse Nótios
The first time I ever tasted a Greek wine could easily have been my last. It was sour and doggy and so astringent I felt like someone had attached a vacuum hose to my mouth and sucked out all the moisture. But, being either stubborn or foolish (it's so hard to tell sometimes), a few months ago I tried again with a Mercouri Pisatis Folói (a white wine made from the roditis grape) from the Péloponnèse region - delicious. The Greeks had redeemed themselves oenologically in my eyes (or, rather, my mouth).
So tonight I'm tasting a 2006 Gaia Agiorgitiko Péloponnèse Nótios. (Agiorgitiko is a common red grape grown in Greece, named in reference to St. George, I believe.) The nose of the Gaia is uncharacteristic for an agiorgitiko; instead of the classic plum and spice, I get an earthy, mushroomy aroma, reminiscent of a damp forest floor, and not much fruit at all - perhaps a hint of fresh cherry.
Also unusual for an agiorgitiko is the relatively high level of acid in this wine. It's a heat-resistant grape that thrives in higher tempratures than many grapes can stand, sometimes at the expense of the resultant wine's structure. The acid seems in proportion to the alcohol, making me think the wine may have been acidified during vinification. Another indication of this is that the acid does not seem fully integrated into the wine - sort of like how a sheer bandage doesn't really look like skin. There is a slight, pleasant astringency, but overall it's a simple, light-medium body wine with plenty of structure but a lack of fruit. In fact the flavor is fairly weak overall, with a hint of something stinky - almost garlicky - lingering in the backrgound.
It's not a horrible wine, but it's not noteworthy, either. I'll have a hard time recalling this one from the depths of my taste memory if I spot it in a store sometime, and I don't expect it will improve or evolve much with age. Don't go out of your way, but if you happen to have some, drink it with something hearty like a beef stew or cheese fondue to give it a little more heft. I'd give it an 80.
So tonight I'm tasting a 2006 Gaia Agiorgitiko Péloponnèse Nótios. (Agiorgitiko is a common red grape grown in Greece, named in reference to St. George, I believe.) The nose of the Gaia is uncharacteristic for an agiorgitiko; instead of the classic plum and spice, I get an earthy, mushroomy aroma, reminiscent of a damp forest floor, and not much fruit at all - perhaps a hint of fresh cherry.
Also unusual for an agiorgitiko is the relatively high level of acid in this wine. It's a heat-resistant grape that thrives in higher tempratures than many grapes can stand, sometimes at the expense of the resultant wine's structure. The acid seems in proportion to the alcohol, making me think the wine may have been acidified during vinification. Another indication of this is that the acid does not seem fully integrated into the wine - sort of like how a sheer bandage doesn't really look like skin. There is a slight, pleasant astringency, but overall it's a simple, light-medium body wine with plenty of structure but a lack of fruit. In fact the flavor is fairly weak overall, with a hint of something stinky - almost garlicky - lingering in the backrgound.
It's not a horrible wine, but it's not noteworthy, either. I'll have a hard time recalling this one from the depths of my taste memory if I spot it in a store sometime, and I don't expect it will improve or evolve much with age. Don't go out of your way, but if you happen to have some, drink it with something hearty like a beef stew or cheese fondue to give it a little more heft. I'd give it an 80.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
2006 Vintjs Cabernet Sauvignon
Trader Joe's has some really awful wine (I'm sorry, but there's a reason it's called 3-buck chuck - it's fit only for male ruminants as far as I'm concerned). But, Trader Joe's also has some excellent value wines. The 2006 Vintijs (pronounced "Vintage") Cabernet Sauvignon is one. I acutally think it could be a cellar-worthy wine. At 4 years old, in the glass the rim is just beginning to take on an orange tint, and in the mouth the tannins are just starting to mellow. They'll smooth out in a year or two, but they're by no means aggressive right now. It'll stand up to some time.
The wine carries raspberry, red currant, and nutmeg on the nose, which seems appropriate to the ruby red hue. The acidity is pronounced, but in balance with the alcohol and the tannins, leaving you with a short but fruit-juicy and spicy finish.
Drinks like a much pricier wine. Well worth the $10! I give it an 85/100.
The wine carries raspberry, red currant, and nutmeg on the nose, which seems appropriate to the ruby red hue. The acidity is pronounced, but in balance with the alcohol and the tannins, leaving you with a short but fruit-juicy and spicy finish.
Drinks like a much pricier wine. Well worth the $10! I give it an 85/100.
Musings of a Blog Ingenue
Having never actually read a blog, let alone written one, I find that, much to my own surprise, I've just sat down a created a blog. I think part of my aversion to this point has been largey the word: "blog." It sounds like a word from a B-level sci fi film ("Look out, Jim! There's a blog approaching at 3.4 nanometers per second; and boy does he look angry!"), or possibly the sound of someone being desperately sick after eating too much pudding.
But, in the end, I find that I have things to say that fit the format of the blog quite well, so here we are.
The purpose of this blog is to talk about wine, in any of its various aspects: the making, the drinking, the serving, the pairing. This time last year, I might have had a bottle or two of Little Penguin or Yellow Tail tucked away in my cupboard, but for the most part I didn't give wine a first thought, let alone a second. I've enjoyed it, and been able to tell drinkable from disgusting, but that was about it. Until I took a flight from Denver to Boston that changed my life. That sounds trite, even to my own ears, but I can't think of a better way to put it.
I was on my way home, after a lovely Christmas with my family, and was staring vaguely at the "in flight entertainment" (usually to be avoided at any cost), where a woman was sitting at a Parisian cafe, sipping a glass of red wine, about which I assumed she was discoursing. Lucky duck, I thought. Imagine it being your job to travel and taste wine. And it took only a moment before I realized there was no reason why I couldn't learn a bit more about wine, and maybe - someday - know enough to impart my wisdom on cross-country flights everywhere.
So when I got home, I enrolled in a class that surveyed all the different grapes and wine regions, and began purchasing and tasting wine at an unprecedented rate. I had no idea whether malbec was a grape, a wine region, or a brand of designer shoes, but I bought it and drank it and liked it.
I'm now in my second class, a much more intensive study of wine analysis, vinification, as well as marketing and sales. I'm interviewing for a part time job in a wine shop. And I'm buying as much wine as my bank balance will support. I'll try anything once. (I've even tried sherry once. I don't need to try it again. If I want to replicate the experience, I'll go dump some rock salt on a decomposing mushroom and suck on it.) And while my wallet and my liver are suffering, I thought perhaps I could share my experiences with an audience (provided someone stumbles upon this thing and acutally reads it).
So here is my wine blog. There will be wine reviews, for sure, as well as commentary on my adventures in the wine trade. As I practice my ability to analyze and communicate wine to others, I also hope to provide readers with some useful recommendations for wines of good value, pairings with food that have worked (and, as a cautionary tale, those that haven't - the California cabernet sauvignon that I'm currently drinking while eating a bowl of Cheerio's, for example), and perhaps a chuckle or two to those of you who will be amused to learn that last night I mistook an Alsatian riesling for a New Zealand sauvignon blanc in a blind tasting. I blame the tropical fruits on the nose.
So....here we go!
But, in the end, I find that I have things to say that fit the format of the blog quite well, so here we are.
The purpose of this blog is to talk about wine, in any of its various aspects: the making, the drinking, the serving, the pairing. This time last year, I might have had a bottle or two of Little Penguin or Yellow Tail tucked away in my cupboard, but for the most part I didn't give wine a first thought, let alone a second. I've enjoyed it, and been able to tell drinkable from disgusting, but that was about it. Until I took a flight from Denver to Boston that changed my life. That sounds trite, even to my own ears, but I can't think of a better way to put it.
I was on my way home, after a lovely Christmas with my family, and was staring vaguely at the "in flight entertainment" (usually to be avoided at any cost), where a woman was sitting at a Parisian cafe, sipping a glass of red wine, about which I assumed she was discoursing. Lucky duck, I thought. Imagine it being your job to travel and taste wine. And it took only a moment before I realized there was no reason why I couldn't learn a bit more about wine, and maybe - someday - know enough to impart my wisdom on cross-country flights everywhere.
So when I got home, I enrolled in a class that surveyed all the different grapes and wine regions, and began purchasing and tasting wine at an unprecedented rate. I had no idea whether malbec was a grape, a wine region, or a brand of designer shoes, but I bought it and drank it and liked it.
I'm now in my second class, a much more intensive study of wine analysis, vinification, as well as marketing and sales. I'm interviewing for a part time job in a wine shop. And I'm buying as much wine as my bank balance will support. I'll try anything once. (I've even tried sherry once. I don't need to try it again. If I want to replicate the experience, I'll go dump some rock salt on a decomposing mushroom and suck on it.) And while my wallet and my liver are suffering, I thought perhaps I could share my experiences with an audience (provided someone stumbles upon this thing and acutally reads it).
So here is my wine blog. There will be wine reviews, for sure, as well as commentary on my adventures in the wine trade. As I practice my ability to analyze and communicate wine to others, I also hope to provide readers with some useful recommendations for wines of good value, pairings with food that have worked (and, as a cautionary tale, those that haven't - the California cabernet sauvignon that I'm currently drinking while eating a bowl of Cheerio's, for example), and perhaps a chuckle or two to those of you who will be amused to learn that last night I mistook an Alsatian riesling for a New Zealand sauvignon blanc in a blind tasting. I blame the tropical fruits on the nose.
So....here we go!
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