In general, I have a hard time appreciating the virtues of red Bordeaux. It's not that I'm that dedicated to the New World Fruit Bomb; I quite like a number of old world-style wines. It's more likely that, Bordeaux being what it is (and as expensive as it is), I just haven't had very many good ones. There are some delicious, inexpensive Bordeaux out there, I think. Thus far, however, I have been unable to locate one. The Lyonnat is fairly moderate in price ($26), so perhaps it won't take the enamel off my teeth?
It's a deep, deep garnet in the glass, with a touch of pink and orange in the rim. It's still young, but from what I've read this isn't a Bordeaux that's meant to spend 25 years in the cave, so I'm not too concerned. The aromas aren't full, but there is some ripe red cherry, and some distinct earthiness and minerality. Terroir, perhaps?
And in the mouth? Yup. That's a Bordeaux: high acid, high tannin, and a bit bitter as well. This wine isn't doing much to improve my opinion of Bordeaux, I'm afraid. Strictly by the numbers, it's not a bad wine. The structure is certainly there, though I'm not sensing much meat on those bones (despite the fact that merlot is often viewed as the "flesh" in a cabernet sauvignon blend). The viscosity is pretty light and the flavor is a little hollow in the middle. But it seems to open up a bit with time, lending some earthiness on the palette, and the finish evolves some sour cherry towards the end. 84.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux
Price: $26
My rating: 84/100
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