2009 Celestin Blondeau Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays du Val de Loire

My wine class is discussing Loire wines, among others, this week so I'm...ahem...doing homework. I've had some lovely Loire wines in the past, including a 1989 Vouvray that I've probably mentioned before because it blew my socks off, or would have if I had been wearing any. I haven't had any real stinkers, but from what I understand, they are certainly out there.  The viticulture & vinification restrictions in some parts of the Loire aren't as strict as other regions of France (for example, Bordeaux, where you can only pick grapes with your left hand every second Thursday of the month; I'm exaggerating, but not by much). This had led to some sloppy winemaking and overcropping practices that have left some people with a sour (literally) taste in their mouthes when it comes to Loire wines.

This one likely isn't of superior class - for one thing it says "Sauvignon Blanc" on the bottle, which is rarely a good sign on a French wine. Those strict French wine laws generally discourage - and sometimes prohibit - use of the varietal name anywhere on the bottle. Which is why you'll often have absolutely no idea what kind of grape is in the bottle you're holding in your hand. They like it that way. This wine is also just a generic "Loire," not from any specific appellation within the region, which means the grapes could come from anywhere and the laws limiting crop yield and winemaking procedures are less strict.

It's a surprisingly deep green-yellow in the glass, and what may be effervescence, or may just be that I poured a little too vigorously.  The nose isn't leaping out of the glass at me, but it's pleasant enough. It's a little musty (not in a "corked" way, but just smells a little dusty, and there is some distinct brine on the nose as well, which I understand isn't uncommon for Loire wines.  Which is one of the reasons they pair so well with seafood, I imagine. There is also some fruit - dried apricot and and maybe some graprefruit rind as well.

On the palate, it's actually surprisingly lacking in acidity. I mean, it's not missing altogether but this is by no means a classic cool-climate sauvignon blanc. So it's tending towards flabby and the texture is a bit oily in the mouth. A touch bitter, though that gives way to a bit more acidity on the finish.  There isn't much fruit in the mouth or, really, much of anything. It's not disgusting, and it'll work fine for dinner tonight (shrimp in lemon and oregano vinaigrette), but it's not a wine I would hold up as a paragon of Loire winemaking.

Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Loire Valley, France
Price: $13

2009 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Regional Collection

Quick post this time, because I'm just really anxious to taste this wine. I found it on sale for $11 (normally $14, but still), and I just couldn't resist it. I've become quite a fan of the New Zealand sauvignon blanc, perhaps because they smell like the tropics. And believe me, buried under a cumulative 3+ feet of snow as I am, I could really use some tropics.

It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today! 

Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)

Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14

PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey.  Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever.  I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!

2009 Domaine du Rin du Bois Touraine Sauvignon

I went to the website of the producers of this wine because I was intrigued by the words "vigneron independant" (or something like that - the bottle is in the fridge and the dog is on my lap and I'm not getting up to look). I thoroughly enjoyed browsing around the site, not only because of the amusing infelicities of translation ("the vineyard" became "the wineyard." I think I would like to have a wineyard.) I was also very impressed by the level of detail it gives regarding the viticulture and vinification of the wine. Everything from the training system of the vines to the bottling date of the finished wine. Based on their use of free run juice (the first juice to come out of the grape upon being lightly pressed), I expect this to be a tasty sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley.

The wine is a medium-pale lemon yellow with a hint of green; not unusual for a sauvignon blanc. I can't get much aroma out of it (possibly because I sort of scorched some panko-crusted tilapia while making dinner and my apartment smells like a bad fish and chip shop). What I do get is green apple, but no cat pee, I'm pleased to report. In the mouth, it's pretty much a classic French sauvignon blanc, which is not at all a bad thing, though it's not something "special." The acid and alcohol in the wine are perfectly in balance, and the wine is pleasantly weighty, making it not a bad white wine to enjoy in winter. My biggest qualm would be a fairly high bitterness quotient. I think that's what got in the way of this wine's pairing with my dinner (once I scraped off the burned part). The tilapia was served with fennel tzatziki, and I think the bitterness of the wine and the bitterness of the yogurt in the sauce really clashed. But all in all, this is a very acceptable wine that I wouldn't hesitate to buy again, or to recommend with dinner, as long as you're not having yogurt....

Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Touraine, Loire Valley
Price: $12
My rating: 87/100

2009 Turtle Creek Sauvignon Blanc

I'm going local with my wine selection tonight. Turtle Creek is a vineyard and winery located in Lincoln, Massachusetts, dedicated to making world class wines from V. vinifera. I.e. not made from grapes native to America, or fruits other than grapes. Not that there is anything (much) wrong with native or hybrid  grape wines, or apple, pear, and peach wines, but the owner and winemaker, Kip, has studied long and hard to prove that wines made from European varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc can indeed be grown in New England. And I think he has more or less succeeded (though I must point out that he does also purchase grapes from vineyards in California for blending and also for producing varietals that can't be grown here, like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon - they need warmth that we just don't have).

The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....

In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.

This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87

Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100

PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.

2010 Santa Ema Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley

Yes, you read correctly - 2010! It's not a beaujolais nouveau, so it must be...South American! Here we have a newly released Chilean sauvignon blanc. It's extremely pale yellow in color, with distinct silver tones. It also has some effervescence to it, though it could be mostly due to the screw cap closure. On the nose, it's fairly classic sauvignon blanc - more New Zealand than France, though. Green grass and mango predominate, with something akin to corn - even corn tortilla - in the background.

It's also quite nice in the mouth. The first impression is just a hint of residual sugar, followed by slight effervescence, pleasant acidity, and tropical fruits. This is an incredibly pleasant wine. The effervescence is making my tongue tingle, which is always fun, and for a $10 wine the finish is incredibly long and juicy. Maybe a bit bitter, but nothing off-putting. Looking forward to trying it with my roasted yellow pepper soup tonight. Thimbs up! 90.

Vintage: 2010
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Maipo Valley, Chile
Price: $10
My rating: 90/100

2009 Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough

I'm having a really hard time sensing the aromas of this New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Not because it is not aromatic - I can tell that it is - but I'm making a Cobb Salad to go along with it, and all I can smell is bacon. After locking myself in the bathroom, I was able to detect that telltale tropical fruit and green grass aroma that I absolutely love about New Zealand sauvignon blancs. There is mango and tamarind and fresh green tomato. Lovely!  The color is classic straw, and very bright to the eye.

I tasted it, and my first thought is..."Mmmm! This is a damn good wine for $9!" Seriously, $9! I think it was on sale, but still.  This is a fantastic value. The aromas carry over strongly to the palate. There is some residual sugar, that brings along the sweet green tomato flavor, but it's not at all sweet. The acid is not particularly high or mouth-watering, though it seems mostly in balance with the sweetness and alcohol, and it has a surprisingly long finish, evolving sweetness and tamarind. There is even a bit of spritz on the tongue, maybe due to the screw cap; it's very pleasant. I think the only thing I would say needs some improvement is the acidity; it's just low enough to leave the wine lacking a little structure. 88!

2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc North Coast

I've seen lots of bottles of Clos du Bois sitting on shelves, in peoples' fridges, even on wine lists. It's a ubiquitous wine - that I've never tasted! So, I thought I'd give it a whirl with the Sonoma north coast sauvignon blanc. It could be awful, it could be a great find...we shall see.

The color is right for a sauvignon blanc, a medium-pale yellow with a flash of green; sort of a straw color. The nose isn't saying much to me. There is some honeydew melon, some honeysuckle, and a bit of a yeasty smell (though I doubt this wine spends much time sitting on the lees), but it's very faint.

In the mouth...it's surprisingly pleasant! Sometimes mass-produced sauvignon blancs take on an off-putting bitterness and something I can't really describe except to say that it's kind of chemically. This doesn't have that. It also doesn't have a ton of acidity, probably because it hails from a relatively warm region, so it's a little flabby. But it actually has a bit of spritz (effervescence) and a nice weight to it, so is rather nice on the palette. I do get some pretty substantial alcohol burn (again, the warm climate at work). Whew! Ever put rubbing alcohol on a cut? Well, don't put this wine in your mouth if you have a canker sore. Trust me.

So the wine isn't particularly balanced in its elements, and the lack of aroma does detract from the overall enjoyment. Is it worth th $14 I paid for it? Eh, maybe. Is it worth drinking if someone hands you a glass? Sure. It would be good for pairing with an all veggie dinner, I think. I give it an 81.

2009 Four Sisters Sauvignon Blanc Central Victoria

I'm often suspicious of Australian white wines. Far, far too many that I have tasted have had an overwhelming quality of...rubber. I don't know if it's the heat, the sun, the soil, or some other element of terroir, but I just don't enjoy drinking something that tastes like a hose.

There a bit of a latexy aroma here, but far more prevalent is the telltale "green" smells of a sauvignon blanc. In fact, when I sniffed it first, I thought "greenhouse!" There are leaves and flowers here, as well as a sort of white peppery quality that I puzzled over quite some time before realizing it was basil. In fact, Thai basil to be overly specific. Who would have thought?!.

There's a bit of sweetness on the palate, though it's by no means a "sweet wine" (after the Pedro Ximinez sherry I tasted last night, maple syrup seems merely "off dry" - like drinking pureed raisins, it was). Besides the sugar, the first thing I noticed was a lack of acidity. My mouth just wasn't watering. These two things can go hand in hand. In a warm climate, which Central Victoria can be, grapes can ripen to produce exquisite levels of sugar (sometimes too much for the yeast to ferment before they poison themselves with alcohol, thus leaving some "residual sugar" in the finished wine), but often at the expense of acidity, which decreases over time.

The bottle is sitting across the room and I don't feel like getting up to look at the alcohol content, but I would expect it's pretty high, given the prickling at the back of my mouth. Between that and the sugar, the wine has a fairly high viscosity and a very smooth, silky texture. Extremely pleasant, indeed!  There is some prominent fruit on the palette as well, which has a slight bitterness that puts me in mind of grapefruit. Overall, it's a pleasant wine, and a good value one as well; it just lacks a bit of the acid structure that could have taken it to the next level. And the bitterness of the grapefruit on the palette becomes more like "rind" than "fruit" as the wine evolves in my mouth. So, eh. I'd give it an 82.

2007 Hedges CMS White Columbia Valley

The CMS in this wine's name refers to the three white grapes in the blend: Chardonnay, Marsanne, and Sauvignon Blanc. True to the origins of these grapes, the wine appears to be made in the old world, French style - without aging in oak barrels - as many new world Chardonnays (and some Marsannes) are. This explains the very faint aromas displayed by this wine. I get a bit of green wood or hay, maybe a little green apple. Chardonnay is known for lacking strong aroma (one of the reasons oak is so often used); not true of the other two, which I thought might indicate that Chardonnay is the dominant grape in the blend (it's not - the wine is 64% Sauvignon Blanc).

I've heard good things about earlier vintages of this wine, but I'm not terribly impressed by this one. In addition to the wimpy nose, it's not a wine that grabs hold of the palette, either. It has a noticeable lack of acidity, which, when paired with the relatively high levels of residual sugar and alcohol, leave you with a wine of substantial body but not much structure to support it. I've heard Marsanne referred to as the Falstaff of white grapes. The analogy certainly holds true in this case: plenty of heft, but lacking the fortitude to follow through.

2007 was a particularly hot summer in Washington state, I believe, which goes quite a way towards explaining the high sugar and alcohol, and the low acidity, as warm temperatures tend to increase sugar levels, while acid levels decline. It does carry some nice, juicy fruit on the palette, though the green apple is opposed by a kind of bitter grapefruit rind that isn't entirely appealing.

The wine isn't faulted, but there's not much there there, really. I give it an 80. Meh.