2006 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Ribera del Duero Pesquera Crianza

Hurricane party!  Tropical Storm Irene has been, happily, much less destructive than it may have been, and I am celebrating by hunkering down with my girls, watching Pride & Prejudice and popping the cork on this special bottle that I've been saving for quite some time. Along with Vega Sicilia, Pesquera is one of the most famous and highly-prized wines from Ribera del Duero, a region of Spain largely disregarded until the rise of these two houses.

Although it hails from Ribera del Duero, in which winemakers are allowed to use Cabernet Sauvignon in their wines (unlike Rioja), Pesquera makes its wines with 100% Tempranillo. Also unlike Rioja, Ribera del Duero tends to use French oak for their barrels instead of American oak, leading to more restrained oak presence with less overt dill and vanilla aromas. Crianzas spend at least 12 months in these French oak barrels, and must be aged at least 2 years before release. In the glass, the wine shows it age through its color, dense garnet with some significant orange-brown towards the rim.

The aromas are nutty tend towards vinosity, with but there is still freshness here - red raspberries and juniper, in particular. On the palate there is something almost briny, leading to the edge of freshness. It is reminiscent of the seaside in the sense that this briniess marries with a slightly green element to produce a hint of beach grass or sea breeze (or is that just Irene blowing through my windows?). But there is less ethereal substance here. The raspberries persist, as does the nutty brown butter from the nose. The texture is silky, with tannin, acidity, and alcohol all in delicate balance. The finish is alive with juniper and bright red berry, and lasts minutes.

An impeccably made wine, and this the perfect occasion to enjoy it.

Vintage: 2006
Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain
Grape: Tempranillo (Tinto Fino)
Price: $34

2008 Bodegas San Valero Juice Banger Tempranillo Garnacha

As you might guess - I bought this wine because of its name. It also has a pretty rocking label, and - even though I know all too well that a great label does not a great wine make - it still worked its marketing magic on me. So let's see how it worked out!

The color is a medium ruby red with a young, pinkish rim. The aroma is fruity, with some cream, smoky black pepper, and strawberries (that' s the garnacha talking). That may sound odd, but one of the most delicious of the many bars of chocolate I've eaten in my life contained both strawberries and black pepper. Whoever discovered that combination was a crazy genius.

In the mouth, the wine is just plain delicious. There is the right amount of acidity and tannin to give the wine bones, but not overpower the fruit. The first sensation I noted upon tasting was cream. The texture is creamy, though not thick, as is the flavor. A bit of bitterness evolves on the tail end, but quickly gives way to strawberry for a satisfying finish. The only fault I find with this pleasant, easy-drinking wine is that it's a bit hollow midpalate. By that I mean that I'm feeling the tannins and acidity on the sides of my mouth and tongue, but in the middle where I want complex flavors and fruit, I'm just not getting much of note.

For $10, this wine is a fantastic value, and is light enough in texture and flavor that you could drink it with just about anything that has some substance (i.e. probably not cod). This wine may very well be present on my Thanksgiving table! I give it an 89.