I haven't really done anything to earn a nice Bordeaux for tonight. Call it a reward for going to the laundromat two weeks in a row, maybe? Of course, I've used put my entire wine budget for the week, so I'll be paying for this bottle by Tuesday when I have to drink water (the horror...).
The bottle age is certainly showing on the rim of this ruby red wine, with significant browning towards the edges. The wine is not particularly dense in color; it almost looks like a weighty new world Pinot Noir. But in aromas, I wouldn't mistake it (I hope) for anything but a Bordeaux. The nose is earthy, flinty (but not in a struck match kind of way), with more than a hint of sour red cherry and red currant and a bit of barnyard. I also get some new oak aromas, predominantly cocoa and toast.
It's not as big in the mouth than I might have expected from such a landmark year for Bordeaux, but it's certainly an estimable wine, nonetheless. More sour cherry, moderate acid and slightly scratchy tannins, all in balance with the alcohol. There's not bitterness, but I am sensing a faint metallic taste that is detracting a bit from my enjoyment. It disappears on the finish, however, giving way to some serious earthiness - like a forest floor in fall. I'm not kidding! Leaf litter, turned earth, and some sour berries dropped off of plants for good measure. This may not be an appealing description, but it's actually quite enjoyable. Just don't go telling people that I told you to go lick a forest floor. Drink the wine instead.
Vintage: 2003
Region: Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (proportions unknown)
Price: $37
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Friday, August 5, 2011
Thursday, July 14, 2011
2005 Blason-d'Issan Margaux
Tonight's wine is a splurge. (That's such a gross word, isn't it?) It's Bastille Day, and I'm opening up a bottle of French wine that I full expect to knock my chausettes off. I haven't been tasting much Bordeaux since I returned from France nearly a month ago, because I tasted so much good wine there, that I was afraid I might be disappointed that I doesn't taste as good in America. You know, the ambience and all. But then I realized that was stupid. So here goes.
Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.
The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....
I want to dive into the glass.
But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)
Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43
Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.
The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....
I want to dive into the glass.
But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)
Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Bordeaux
Look at me, posting twice in one week. Today we have a Bordeaux, but I'm pretty sure it's made in a more modern, international style than a traditional Bordeaux. I base this on two things - I have read that this wine will peak in 2011-2012, which is a very short time for a Bordeaux; and it has 14.5% ABV. If I could whistle, I would be doing so now. Granted 2009 was a warm year in Bordeaux, so higher sugar (and hence alcohol) levels are to be expected, but 14.5% is still more indicative of California than France.
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
Saturday, January 22, 2011
2005 Abbaye de St-Ferme Bordeaux Supérieur Les Vignes du Soir
Yes! It's a 2005 Bordeaux! 2005 was touted as the "vintage of the century" for Bordeaux. Now it's 2009 (keep your eyes peeled - they're starting to roll into US shops!). This is by no means a Premier Cru wine - Bordeaux Supérieur is essentially a generic appellation within the region of Bordeaux, distinct from plain old Bordeaux AOC by having more alcohol in it. This doesn't mean it's not a good wine, though. I could go on for days about the issues related to the Bordeaux classification system (and believe me, some people have), but to be concise: the current ranking system of many Bordeaux wines was erected in 1855 and hasn't really changed much since. So it's not exactly based on up-to-the-minute quality.
The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.
In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux. Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100
The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.
In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux. Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100
Monday, December 20, 2010
2006 Chateau Lyonnat Lussac-St.-Emilion
In general, I have a hard time appreciating the virtues of red Bordeaux. It's not that I'm that dedicated to the New World Fruit Bomb; I quite like a number of old world-style wines. It's more likely that, Bordeaux being what it is (and as expensive as it is), I just haven't had very many good ones. There are some delicious, inexpensive Bordeaux out there, I think. Thus far, however, I have been unable to locate one. The Lyonnat is fairly moderate in price ($26), so perhaps it won't take the enamel off my teeth?
It's a deep, deep garnet in the glass, with a touch of pink and orange in the rim. It's still young, but from what I've read this isn't a Bordeaux that's meant to spend 25 years in the cave, so I'm not too concerned. The aromas aren't full, but there is some ripe red cherry, and some distinct earthiness and minerality. Terroir, perhaps?
And in the mouth? Yup. That's a Bordeaux: high acid, high tannin, and a bit bitter as well. This wine isn't doing much to improve my opinion of Bordeaux, I'm afraid. Strictly by the numbers, it's not a bad wine. The structure is certainly there, though I'm not sensing much meat on those bones (despite the fact that merlot is often viewed as the "flesh" in a cabernet sauvignon blend). The viscosity is pretty light and the flavor is a little hollow in the middle. But it seems to open up a bit with time, lending some earthiness on the palette, and the finish evolves some sour cherry towards the end. 84.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux
Price: $26
My rating: 84/100
It's a deep, deep garnet in the glass, with a touch of pink and orange in the rim. It's still young, but from what I've read this isn't a Bordeaux that's meant to spend 25 years in the cave, so I'm not too concerned. The aromas aren't full, but there is some ripe red cherry, and some distinct earthiness and minerality. Terroir, perhaps?
And in the mouth? Yup. That's a Bordeaux: high acid, high tannin, and a bit bitter as well. This wine isn't doing much to improve my opinion of Bordeaux, I'm afraid. Strictly by the numbers, it's not a bad wine. The structure is certainly there, though I'm not sensing much meat on those bones (despite the fact that merlot is often viewed as the "flesh" in a cabernet sauvignon blend). The viscosity is pretty light and the flavor is a little hollow in the middle. But it seems to open up a bit with time, lending some earthiness on the palette, and the finish evolves some sour cherry towards the end. 84.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux
Price: $26
My rating: 84/100
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