Hurricane party! Tropical Storm Irene has been, happily, much less destructive than it may have been, and I am celebrating by hunkering down with my girls, watching Pride & Prejudice and popping the cork on this special bottle that I've been saving for quite some time. Along with Vega Sicilia, Pesquera is one of the most famous and highly-prized wines from Ribera del Duero, a region of Spain largely disregarded until the rise of these two houses.
Although it hails from Ribera del Duero, in which winemakers are allowed to use Cabernet Sauvignon in their wines (unlike Rioja), Pesquera makes its wines with 100% Tempranillo. Also unlike Rioja, Ribera del Duero tends to use French oak for their barrels instead of American oak, leading to more restrained oak presence with less overt dill and vanilla aromas. Crianzas spend at least 12 months in these French oak barrels, and must be aged at least 2 years before release. In the glass, the wine shows it age through its color, dense garnet with some significant orange-brown towards the rim.
The aromas are nutty tend towards vinosity, with but there is still freshness here - red raspberries and juniper, in particular. On the palate there is something almost briny, leading to the edge of freshness. It is reminiscent of the seaside in the sense that this briniess marries with a slightly green element to produce a hint of beach grass or sea breeze (or is that just Irene blowing through my windows?). But there is less ethereal substance here. The raspberries persist, as does the nutty brown butter from the nose. The texture is silky, with tannin, acidity, and alcohol all in delicate balance. The finish is alive with juniper and bright red berry, and lasts minutes.
An impeccably made wine, and this the perfect occasion to enjoy it.
Vintage: 2006
Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain
Grape: Tempranillo (Tinto Fino)
Price: $34
Showing posts with label Recommended. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recommended. Show all posts
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Thursday, July 28, 2011
2007 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
I'm taking a serious risk with this wine. The last Hamilton Russell I tasted, the 2008 Pinot Noir, was categorically the most disgusting wine I have ever enountered. The best description I can come up with is that it tasted like the Michelin Man rolled around in a big pile of trash, then set himself on fire. Nasty! But in general, this firm has a good reputation, so I decided to give them a second chance.
As it has some bottle age on it, I'm not surprised to see that the wine has a fairly deep yellow-gold hue, tending almost to brown. The aromas are also indicative of age, with honey and butter outweighing the white flowers and green apple. There is definitely some oak in the wine; however, there is no sign of a self-immolating Michelin Man, so I am encouraged.
On the palate...it's beautiful. Hamilton Russell has certainly redeemed itself in my mind. The flavors are fresh - not at all oxidized as they could be in a 4 year old Chardonnay - with loads of lemon and green apple and a perfectly balanced touch of oak for creaminess and a hint of bitterness at the back of the mouth. I'm astonished at how youthful this wine tastes. There is no one flavor or element out of place. It's simply delicious.
So the lesson here is simple: if you ever come into contact with a Hamilton Russell wine, avoid the Pinot Noir like the plague it is, and embrace the lovely chardonnay.
Vintage: 2007
Region: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa
Grape: Chardonnay
Price: $26
As it has some bottle age on it, I'm not surprised to see that the wine has a fairly deep yellow-gold hue, tending almost to brown. The aromas are also indicative of age, with honey and butter outweighing the white flowers and green apple. There is definitely some oak in the wine; however, there is no sign of a self-immolating Michelin Man, so I am encouraged.
On the palate...it's beautiful. Hamilton Russell has certainly redeemed itself in my mind. The flavors are fresh - not at all oxidized as they could be in a 4 year old Chardonnay - with loads of lemon and green apple and a perfectly balanced touch of oak for creaminess and a hint of bitterness at the back of the mouth. I'm astonished at how youthful this wine tastes. There is no one flavor or element out of place. It's simply delicious.
So the lesson here is simple: if you ever come into contact with a Hamilton Russell wine, avoid the Pinot Noir like the plague it is, and embrace the lovely chardonnay.
Vintage: 2007
Region: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa
Grape: Chardonnay
Price: $26
Friday, July 22, 2011
2008 Mauritson Syrah Rockpile Madrone Spring Vineyard
It's entirely possible that I bought this bottle of wine because it is from Rockpile. What a fantastic name for a wine appellation! Is it evocative of what it really looks like? Don't know, never been there. But I did buy the wine at the Mauritson flagship vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. (I'm really raiding my Sonoma stash these days!)
The wine is inky violet in the glass, deep enough to be called opaque. The aromas are dominated by oak, manifesting as vanilla and milk chocolate. I'm not getting much fruit beyond blueberry pie. Not that I'm complaining. In the mouth, there's a lot more fruit - stewed blackberry, more blueberry, and sweetened black currants. And there's a lot of oak, but in balance with the fruit, the acidity, and the slightly scratchy tannins. The only thing out of whack here is the alcohol (I sense a pattern here amongst the recent California wines I've tasted - shocking). It's got to be at least 14.5% pecent. I've had ports that burned my lips less. But, just like doing squats and lunges hurts like hell, it's a good kind of hurt. I really like this wine.
Vintage: 2008
Region: Rockpile, Sonoma
Grape: Syrah
Price: $38
The wine is inky violet in the glass, deep enough to be called opaque. The aromas are dominated by oak, manifesting as vanilla and milk chocolate. I'm not getting much fruit beyond blueberry pie. Not that I'm complaining. In the mouth, there's a lot more fruit - stewed blackberry, more blueberry, and sweetened black currants. And there's a lot of oak, but in balance with the fruit, the acidity, and the slightly scratchy tannins. The only thing out of whack here is the alcohol (I sense a pattern here amongst the recent California wines I've tasted - shocking). It's got to be at least 14.5% pecent. I've had ports that burned my lips less. But, just like doing squats and lunges hurts like hell, it's a good kind of hurt. I really like this wine.
Vintage: 2008
Region: Rockpile, Sonoma
Grape: Syrah
Price: $38
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
2008 Ten Acre Pinot Noir DuNah Vineyard
On this momentous day - the one on which I officially enter the wine trade as a career - I am opening a bottle of wine that is very special to me. I picked it up during Sonoma's barrel tasting even earlier this year, while traveling from vineyard to vineyard with two of my favorite wine aficionados, Vanessa and Brian. This Pinot Noir is a new endeavor for the owners of Bella Vineyards; in 2008 they produced the first bottles of wine from the 10 acres of property around their home, where they planned to produce small lots of high quality wine in a Burgundian style.
The wine certainly carries aromas common in Burgundian wines. While he later recanted, or at least qualified it, Anthony Hanson once wote that "Good Burgundy smells of shit." I wouldn't go so far as to say this wine smells like shit, it certainly has an air of the barnyard about it. In a good way, of course. It also smells of ripe rasperries, cola, and cinnamon.
In the mouth, I immediately remember why I bought this wine (and am wishing I had bought more). It is impeccably balanced (aside from the elevated alcohol level, which is pretty much par for the course in California wines these days). There is a hint of residual sugar, expressed as ripe black cherries, the tannins are smooth as silk, and the finish is delightfully long and juicy. There isn't much of this wine out there, but I highly recommend you seek some out!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Price: $38
The wine certainly carries aromas common in Burgundian wines. While he later recanted, or at least qualified it, Anthony Hanson once wote that "Good Burgundy smells of shit." I wouldn't go so far as to say this wine smells like shit, it certainly has an air of the barnyard about it. In a good way, of course. It also smells of ripe rasperries, cola, and cinnamon.
In the mouth, I immediately remember why I bought this wine (and am wishing I had bought more). It is impeccably balanced (aside from the elevated alcohol level, which is pretty much par for the course in California wines these days). There is a hint of residual sugar, expressed as ripe black cherries, the tannins are smooth as silk, and the finish is delightfully long and juicy. There isn't much of this wine out there, but I highly recommend you seek some out!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Price: $38
Thursday, July 14, 2011
2005 Blason-d'Issan Margaux
Tonight's wine is a splurge. (That's such a gross word, isn't it?) It's Bastille Day, and I'm opening up a bottle of French wine that I full expect to knock my chausettes off. I haven't been tasting much Bordeaux since I returned from France nearly a month ago, because I tasted so much good wine there, that I was afraid I might be disappointed that I doesn't taste as good in America. You know, the ambience and all. But then I realized that was stupid. So here goes.
Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.
The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....
I want to dive into the glass.
But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)
Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43
Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.
The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....
I want to dive into the glass.
But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)
Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43
Sunday, July 10, 2011
2009 Ballast Stone Unwooded Chardonnay South Australia Steeple Jack
I love it the term "unwooded" is used to describe a wine that has not been fermented or aged in oak barrels, but rather in stainless stell. It just sounds so...Australian. And indeed, this unwooded wine does hail from South Australia, a preposterously large appellation that produces more than half of all Australia's yearly output of wine. To be sure, there's a lot of bulk wine to wade through, but some great wines are produced here as well.
The unoaked chardonnay is a medium-deep yellow with hints of gold. The aromas are undemonstrative, as is common in chardonnay, but there is some nice lemon and green apple, but also a chalky minerality. The wine isn't as acidic as it smells, but is in fact quite well-balanced in its elements. The alcohol may be a bit high, but not enough so to overpower the acidity (Certainly nowhere approaching the 15.1% California chardonnay I ran into today!), and it gives the wine a delicious weight and viscosity on the palate. There's plenty of fruit there, too: lemon zest, granny smith apple, and honedew melon. Yummy.
The Steeple Jack wines are some of Ballast Stone's more economical lines of wine, but the low price tag certainly doesn't mean low quality. I'll certainly keep an eye out for their other varietals in this line.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: South Australia
Price: $10
The unoaked chardonnay is a medium-deep yellow with hints of gold. The aromas are undemonstrative, as is common in chardonnay, but there is some nice lemon and green apple, but also a chalky minerality. The wine isn't as acidic as it smells, but is in fact quite well-balanced in its elements. The alcohol may be a bit high, but not enough so to overpower the acidity (Certainly nowhere approaching the 15.1% California chardonnay I ran into today!), and it gives the wine a delicious weight and viscosity on the palate. There's plenty of fruit there, too: lemon zest, granny smith apple, and honedew melon. Yummy.
The Steeple Jack wines are some of Ballast Stone's more economical lines of wine, but the low price tag certainly doesn't mean low quality. I'll certainly keep an eye out for their other varietals in this line.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: South Australia
Price: $10
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
2010 Charles & Charles Rosé Columbia Valley
It's 4 bzillion degrees out, I have no air conditioning, and I hereby proclaim it officially rosé weather. I will be drinking nothing else (including water) until the temperature goes below 85 degrees. This could be dangerous, but luckily for me, I won't care.
This Washington state rosé is made from 100% syrah, which is pretty much a recipe for happiness for me. The color is a fairly deep pink with hints of copper, though not nearly as deep as some Southern Rhone syrah rosés I've seen. You couldn't mistake this one for a pinot noir, let's put it that way. The aromas are heavenly, which is good because I spent a lot of time inhaling its aromas while mopping a glass of it off the floor. The Kong got away from the dog and disaster ensued. But now my glass is refilled, and I'm ready to see if these honeydew, lilac, and raspberry perfumes carry over to the palate.
Oh, yes. Raspberries and cream on the palate, with the floral aromas carrying through the finish. The texture is smooth, with just a whisper of tannin. The alcohol and acidity are balanced and in control. The only somewhat unpleasant element is a growing bitterness on the finish, that threatens to overpower the fruit. But all in all, a great wine to sip when the temperature outside - or inside, in my case - is unbearable. It'll cool you off, and you'll enjoy the process.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Syrah
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington State
Price: $13
This Washington state rosé is made from 100% syrah, which is pretty much a recipe for happiness for me. The color is a fairly deep pink with hints of copper, though not nearly as deep as some Southern Rhone syrah rosés I've seen. You couldn't mistake this one for a pinot noir, let's put it that way. The aromas are heavenly, which is good because I spent a lot of time inhaling its aromas while mopping a glass of it off the floor. The Kong got away from the dog and disaster ensued. But now my glass is refilled, and I'm ready to see if these honeydew, lilac, and raspberry perfumes carry over to the palate.
Oh, yes. Raspberries and cream on the palate, with the floral aromas carrying through the finish. The texture is smooth, with just a whisper of tannin. The alcohol and acidity are balanced and in control. The only somewhat unpleasant element is a growing bitterness on the finish, that threatens to overpower the fruit. But all in all, a great wine to sip when the temperature outside - or inside, in my case - is unbearable. It'll cool you off, and you'll enjoy the process.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Syrah
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington State
Price: $13
Friday, May 27, 2011
2009 S.A. Prum Riesling QbA Mosel Essence
I almost didn't buy this wine. I have an aversion to wines from non-English-speaking countries that use English words in their names. The ostentatious "Essence" written upside the bottle nearly turned me off. It's too much like "Relax" riesling from Germany or, god forbid, "Blue Ridge" which you'd think would come from somewhere in the Appalachian mountains, but actually comes from Bulgaria.
But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.
The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).
It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.
All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14
But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.
The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).
It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.
All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Bordeaux
Look at me, posting twice in one week. Today we have a Bordeaux, but I'm pretty sure it's made in a more modern, international style than a traditional Bordeaux. I base this on two things - I have read that this wine will peak in 2011-2012, which is a very short time for a Bordeaux; and it has 14.5% ABV. If I could whistle, I would be doing so now. Granted 2009 was a warm year in Bordeaux, so higher sugar (and hence alcohol) levels are to be expected, but 14.5% is still more indicative of California than France.
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
Monday, May 23, 2011
2007 Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec Luján de Cuyo Reserva
It has been an extremely long time since I posted. I was in the midst of finishing up a course in the international wine trade and, frankly, was completely burned out on thinking about wine. Not drinking it, mind you, just thinking about it. But I've had a couple of weeks to recuperate, and I think I'm ready to give it a go.
I have such fond memories of Luigi Bosca malbec. Years ago, when my dad was traveling to South America for work, he came back raving about the wine. At the time, it was extremely hard - even impossible - to find the wine in the US. Then about 4 years ago, my parents and I went to Argentina and immersed ourselves (almost literally) in the country's wine. Aside from a nice bottle of Tikal and some wine of unknown variety or provenance that came out of a big plastic jug at a street market, the Luigi Bosca was some of the best we had. Happily, it's now widely available in the US - I even managed to find this bottle on sale!
I've been saving this bottle for a special occasion, but for some reason I've decided to open it. Part of it is that I have a ridiculous number of wines that I've been saving for a special occasion, and...I don't have any special occasions (or, more specifically, anyone to share the wines with on special occasions). I'm also opening it now because Argentinian malbecs aren't really noted for their longevity and I don't want this wine to turn the corner before I decide to open it up. And, finally, it's the 10th in what is expected to be a 12-day-long rainy spell and I'm trying to transport myself to sunnier places. Given that Mendoza gets only about 22 cm of rain (about 8 1/2 inches) a year, I think it qualifies.
The wine is the expected inky color, though it has lost some of its youthful blue hues. It's more of a garnet with just a hint of violet at the rim. The aromas are deep and almost earthy. There's a butteriness from oak, but only in the backrgound. The primary aromas are ripe red berries and forest floor, and something briary as well.
It's a touch buttery on the palate as well, but not overwhelmingly. This malbec suffers from none of the overt jammy fruits or overpowering alcohol of a number of malbecs, but is a lovely balance of fruit, tannin, acid, and heat. The finish is long and juicy. Words cannot express how badly I want a big slab of Argentinian beef at this moment. Alas, my dinner consists of a green salad with a poached egg and sweet potato. Dinner and wine are not in agreement. So I'll just finish the wine first.
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Malbec
Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $16
I have such fond memories of Luigi Bosca malbec. Years ago, when my dad was traveling to South America for work, he came back raving about the wine. At the time, it was extremely hard - even impossible - to find the wine in the US. Then about 4 years ago, my parents and I went to Argentina and immersed ourselves (almost literally) in the country's wine. Aside from a nice bottle of Tikal and some wine of unknown variety or provenance that came out of a big plastic jug at a street market, the Luigi Bosca was some of the best we had. Happily, it's now widely available in the US - I even managed to find this bottle on sale!
I've been saving this bottle for a special occasion, but for some reason I've decided to open it. Part of it is that I have a ridiculous number of wines that I've been saving for a special occasion, and...I don't have any special occasions (or, more specifically, anyone to share the wines with on special occasions). I'm also opening it now because Argentinian malbecs aren't really noted for their longevity and I don't want this wine to turn the corner before I decide to open it up. And, finally, it's the 10th in what is expected to be a 12-day-long rainy spell and I'm trying to transport myself to sunnier places. Given that Mendoza gets only about 22 cm of rain (about 8 1/2 inches) a year, I think it qualifies.
The wine is the expected inky color, though it has lost some of its youthful blue hues. It's more of a garnet with just a hint of violet at the rim. The aromas are deep and almost earthy. There's a butteriness from oak, but only in the backrgound. The primary aromas are ripe red berries and forest floor, and something briary as well.
It's a touch buttery on the palate as well, but not overwhelmingly. This malbec suffers from none of the overt jammy fruits or overpowering alcohol of a number of malbecs, but is a lovely balance of fruit, tannin, acid, and heat. The finish is long and juicy. Words cannot express how badly I want a big slab of Argentinian beef at this moment. Alas, my dinner consists of a green salad with a poached egg and sweet potato. Dinner and wine are not in agreement. So I'll just finish the wine first.
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Malbec
Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $16
Sunday, April 3, 2011
2009 Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé
I hereby proclaim it officially Spring! Yes, it snowed only 2 days ago, and there is still some of the nefarious white stuff on the ground, but the sun was warm today and I'm breaking out the rosé. This was my rosé of choice last summer - it's inexpensive, delicious, and ubiquitous. There were 10,000 cases imported into the United States, so chances are you can find it just about anywhere.
Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.
The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10
Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.
The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10
Friday, April 1, 2011
2006 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin 28 Kalimna
This was one of the first wines I bought when I first starting "collecting" wines (I'm not really a collector - I tend to have between 14-17 bottles at any given time - but there are some I'm holding onto so perhaps I qualify as a collector-in-training?). I'm not sure what has moved me to open it tonight, as I have nothing momentous to celebrate, except for the fact that I have a day off tomorrow. A rare and much appreciated occurrence.
Penfolds is the producer responsible for Australia's most expensive wine, Grange. This bottle is from a significantly lower echelon, made from grapes sourced from different areas in Australia, but I expect it will still be a nice wine to sip for the evening. It's a Shiraz, so it's possible it could be a really big wine, but I don't have to go anywhere so the 300% ABV won't be a problem.
It's dense and dark in the glass; not inky purple, but a deep, deep garnet. It's so dark I can't tell if the wine is clear or cloudy, though I feel like I see a hint of turbidity. While the color of the wine is no trifle, the aromas are surprisingly delicate. There's fresh mint, wet stone, blackberries, and a hint of toasty oak. Very attractive. Interestingly, I don't get any of the black pepper and smoky, roasted meats that I often associate with a shiraz or syrah.
In the mouth - this is 100% not the wine I expected it to be. I think I might let it sit and open up a bit more before drinking it, because it's surprisingly muted and tight right now. Aside from the alcohol (which is appreciable), I am not getting much flavor or texture at all, aside from a lingering impression of black olives and anise. The acid levels appear correct, and the bitterness is in proportion to the tannins such as I can sense them. But right now, then wine is just very thin. I will report back in about an hour.
______________________________________
So, here we are over 2 hours later, and the wine has opened up only moderately. I have to say, this is probably the most restrained Australian shiraz I have ever tasted. Some smoke did evolve on the nose, and the palate is a hint juicier and the tannins are more apparent, but by far the most prominent element is still the alcohol. All in all, I actually quite like the elegance of this wine; if the alcohol were about 1-1/5% less, it would be a real winner.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Shiraz
Region: Australia
Price: $26
Penfolds is the producer responsible for Australia's most expensive wine, Grange. This bottle is from a significantly lower echelon, made from grapes sourced from different areas in Australia, but I expect it will still be a nice wine to sip for the evening. It's a Shiraz, so it's possible it could be a really big wine, but I don't have to go anywhere so the 300% ABV won't be a problem.
It's dense and dark in the glass; not inky purple, but a deep, deep garnet. It's so dark I can't tell if the wine is clear or cloudy, though I feel like I see a hint of turbidity. While the color of the wine is no trifle, the aromas are surprisingly delicate. There's fresh mint, wet stone, blackberries, and a hint of toasty oak. Very attractive. Interestingly, I don't get any of the black pepper and smoky, roasted meats that I often associate with a shiraz or syrah.
In the mouth - this is 100% not the wine I expected it to be. I think I might let it sit and open up a bit more before drinking it, because it's surprisingly muted and tight right now. Aside from the alcohol (which is appreciable), I am not getting much flavor or texture at all, aside from a lingering impression of black olives and anise. The acid levels appear correct, and the bitterness is in proportion to the tannins such as I can sense them. But right now, then wine is just very thin. I will report back in about an hour.
______________________________________
So, here we are over 2 hours later, and the wine has opened up only moderately. I have to say, this is probably the most restrained Australian shiraz I have ever tasted. Some smoke did evolve on the nose, and the palate is a hint juicier and the tannins are more apparent, but by far the most prominent element is still the alcohol. All in all, I actually quite like the elegance of this wine; if the alcohol were about 1-1/5% less, it would be a real winner.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Shiraz
Region: Australia
Price: $26
Monday, March 28, 2011
2008 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles
The last California Cab I tasted left me with kind of a bad taste in my mouth. So I decided to try another to see if I can wash it away. Justin is a widely-distributed brand - I got this bottle at Trader Joe's - and I've been told nothing can beat it when paired with a nice juicy steak. While I am a little suspicious of this claim (and I'm not eating any steak), I thought I'd give it a whirl.
The aromas are a hint more refined than the last Cab; I get some spicy herbs - dill, maybe - and some toasty cedar along with classic oaky vanilla, black plums, and black currants. The palate, however, is light years ahead of the Sean Minor. It definitely has some serious alcohol (you could probably use this as mouthwash - and very tasty mouthwash it would be), but enough acid to match it, juicy fruits but not overripe and not overpowered by the oak. I can certainly see pairing this with a juicy grilled steak (can you believe I was a vegetarian for 10 years? I can't...), and it's also quite nice with the penne pasta, broccoli rabe, and Italian sausage that's on my dinner plate.
My only "suggestions" for the winemakers (should I be so bold) would be - a little more tannin (it's there, and it's soft, but it's not an equal ingredient with the sourness and heat) and a little less alcohol. I wouldn't be surprised if this wine had an ABV of over 15%. Ouch. Other than that - nom!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Paso Robles, California
Price: $21
The aromas are a hint more refined than the last Cab; I get some spicy herbs - dill, maybe - and some toasty cedar along with classic oaky vanilla, black plums, and black currants. The palate, however, is light years ahead of the Sean Minor. It definitely has some serious alcohol (you could probably use this as mouthwash - and very tasty mouthwash it would be), but enough acid to match it, juicy fruits but not overripe and not overpowered by the oak. I can certainly see pairing this with a juicy grilled steak (can you believe I was a vegetarian for 10 years? I can't...), and it's also quite nice with the penne pasta, broccoli rabe, and Italian sausage that's on my dinner plate.
My only "suggestions" for the winemakers (should I be so bold) would be - a little more tannin (it's there, and it's soft, but it's not an equal ingredient with the sourness and heat) and a little less alcohol. I wouldn't be surprised if this wine had an ABV of over 15%. Ouch. Other than that - nom!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Paso Robles, California
Price: $21
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
2007 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace
I have to admit to being a little apprehensive about this wine. As you know if you read my second to last post, I am somewhat of a slave to the gewurztraminer. I love it, and even if it's not a very highly credentialed one, I'll likely drink it with pleasure. My concern has to do with the Trimbach part. Trimbach has a widely-known and respected name, but I've witnessed some substantial variation between vintages and between bottles in his wines. I've really enjoyed his rieslings in the past, but the last pinot gris I tasted put me in mind of a shiitake and radish-scented candle. Why someone would create such a candle, I don't know - and I don't know why one would make a wine that tasted like that either.
The wine is a medium-deep yellow-gold gold in the glass and is ripe with stone fruits - yellow plums and apricots - and spicy nutmeg. Alas, no lychees, but I'll live. When I first pulled the cork, I got a hint of a chemically smell that could have been volatile acidity, but it has since blown off, and the aromas are sweet and lush.
In the mouth, it's quite elegant. There is a hint of sweetness, though it's all but cancelled out by the bracing acidity. The flavors pick up the ripe fruits of the aromas, evolving into a spicy, almost green finish resminiscent of scallions. It's a bit bitter on the palate, and the acidity does dominate the senses, but all in all it's a nice drinking wine that is making me yearn for a sweet onion tart. Oddly enough. They do say that Alsatian wines pair well with onions, so maybe I'm onto something!
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Gewurztraminer
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $18
The wine is a medium-deep yellow-gold gold in the glass and is ripe with stone fruits - yellow plums and apricots - and spicy nutmeg. Alas, no lychees, but I'll live. When I first pulled the cork, I got a hint of a chemically smell that could have been volatile acidity, but it has since blown off, and the aromas are sweet and lush.
In the mouth, it's quite elegant. There is a hint of sweetness, though it's all but cancelled out by the bracing acidity. The flavors pick up the ripe fruits of the aromas, evolving into a spicy, almost green finish resminiscent of scallions. It's a bit bitter on the palate, and the acidity does dominate the senses, but all in all it's a nice drinking wine that is making me yearn for a sweet onion tart. Oddly enough. They do say that Alsatian wines pair well with onions, so maybe I'm onto something!
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Gewurztraminer
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $18
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
2007 Foris Fly-Over Rogue Valley
What's this, a non-French wine?! Indeed, I have returned to the good ol' US, at least for this wine. And boy was it worth it. I suppose you could call it a "Meritage" since it's a blend of traditional Bordeaux grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc - but I don't know if it counts because it's from Oregon, not California. But really, who cares, because it is so good. It's a deep garnet in the glass, and aromas of clove, mineral, and grape jam form a sweet-savory nose that doesn't quite warn you for the juiciness of the wine on the palate. It's a touch sweet with sourness and alcohol in perfect balance. The tannins are present but soft and refined, and frankly it tastes like fresh cherry juice going down.
This is a really short post, but frankly I don't have a lot more to say. The wine is good. And I rather be drinking it than typing right now.
Vintage: 2007
Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Price: $13
This is a really short post, but frankly I don't have a lot more to say. The wine is good. And I rather be drinking it than typing right now.
Vintage: 2007
Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Price: $13
Friday, February 18, 2011
2009 Laboure-Roi Mâcon-Villages St.-Armand
Another wine in my recent French exploration! It's been fun, and I may continue for a while, but...I think Italy may be calling. Stay tuned. But for the meantime, I present a bourgogne blanc - a white Burgundy - from the Macon region. Laboure-Roi is the third largest Burgundy producer, and it has been around forever. Well, at least since 1832. They make wines in a number of appellations and at a variety of price points. This is one of the cheap ones, but I think their quality is fairly reliable.
The color is a relatively deep gold for such a young wine. I suspect it's seen a bit of oak, although I can't detect a lot of toastiness on the nose, which would darken the color. The nose also carries a lot of yeasty, baking bread aromas, which means the wine was left to age on its lees - the dead yeast cells - which may possibly darken the color as well. There is a bit of fresh fruit on the nose, such as green apple and honeydew, but the aromas are pretty subdued.
The wine very easy-going in the mouth. Moderate acid and a touch of sugar to lend viscosity. It's not what I'd call an exciting wine; in fact it's pretty pedestrian. But it's tasty and the flavors of yeast, toast, and fresh fruit are concentrated, if not complex. A very easy drinking wine, and accessible to most people, I'd imagine. And emphatically not overoaked, like many a California chardonnay. I'd recommend this wine if you're looking for something simple to serve to guests who aren't adventurous when it comes to wine. It's good and safe.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Macon, Burgundy
Price: $13
The color is a relatively deep gold for such a young wine. I suspect it's seen a bit of oak, although I can't detect a lot of toastiness on the nose, which would darken the color. The nose also carries a lot of yeasty, baking bread aromas, which means the wine was left to age on its lees - the dead yeast cells - which may possibly darken the color as well. There is a bit of fresh fruit on the nose, such as green apple and honeydew, but the aromas are pretty subdued.
The wine very easy-going in the mouth. Moderate acid and a touch of sugar to lend viscosity. It's not what I'd call an exciting wine; in fact it's pretty pedestrian. But it's tasty and the flavors of yeast, toast, and fresh fruit are concentrated, if not complex. A very easy drinking wine, and accessible to most people, I'd imagine. And emphatically not overoaked, like many a California chardonnay. I'd recommend this wine if you're looking for something simple to serve to guests who aren't adventurous when it comes to wine. It's good and safe.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Macon, Burgundy
Price: $13
Sunday, February 13, 2011
2005 L'Oca Ciuca Toscana "The Drunken Goose"
I'll have to rely on someone who knows more Italian than "Grazie" and "Bongiorno" to tell me if L'Oca Ciuca actually means "The Drunken Goose," but either way it was good enough to get me to buy this bottle of Italian red. Not that I generally require that much persuasion. This is one of the so-called "Supertuscans" who operate outside the Italian wine laws by adding such grapes as cabernet sauvignon and merlot to their sangiovese. The horror! This particular blend is of sangiovese, merlot, and syrah.
It's an opaque garnet in the glass, with just a hint of browning towards the rim. The aromas are dense with dark fruits - blueberries and plums, mostly - and some palpable cocoa as well. The deliciousness extends to the palate. It's not at all sweet, but the fruits are juicy, the acid in perfect balance with the fine tannins and alcohol. Despite it's modest price, I suspect this wine could actually age a few more years and still evolve. The finish is a little sour, but overall the wine is very pleasant. I can see why the goose got drunk.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah
Region: Tuscany
Price: $12
It's an opaque garnet in the glass, with just a hint of browning towards the rim. The aromas are dense with dark fruits - blueberries and plums, mostly - and some palpable cocoa as well. The deliciousness extends to the palate. It's not at all sweet, but the fruits are juicy, the acid in perfect balance with the fine tannins and alcohol. Despite it's modest price, I suspect this wine could actually age a few more years and still evolve. The finish is a little sour, but overall the wine is very pleasant. I can see why the goose got drunk.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah
Region: Tuscany
Price: $12
Friday, January 28, 2011
2009 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Regional Collection
Quick post this time, because I'm just really anxious to taste this wine. I found it on sale for $11 (normally $14, but still), and I just couldn't resist it. I've become quite a fan of the New Zealand sauvignon blanc, perhaps because they smell like the tropics. And believe me, buried under a cumulative 3+ feet of snow as I am, I could really use some tropics.
It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today!
Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14
PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey. Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever. I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!
It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today!
Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14
PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey. Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever. I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
2009 Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto Rodòn
So, it's not technically rose season. Not that wines really have a season, but I always think of rose as a hot weather thing. But this one called my name, and I thought it would pair delicously with the chicken and olive vinaigrette I'm planning for dinner tonight. I must begin by emphasizing the fact that not all rose is a blush wine, a la Beringer or Riunite. It doesn't have to be sweet, and it doesn't have to be...nasty. In fact, I love rose. Roses just have a bad reputation, much like pitbulls, as a result of people mistreating them.
I'm not entirely sure what the blend of grapes is in this particular wine. Bardolino is the appellation, and also the type of wine (called Bardolino Chiaretto in the case of roses), but the grapes can be a blend of several, such as corvina, rondinella, and molinara. They are the same grapes used in Valpolicella, a wine that became one of my favorites after a trip to Venice a couple of years ago.
This wine is absolutely beautiful in the glass. One of the things I love about rose wines is the range of colors they can assume. This one is is salmon pink, weighted heavily on the orange side. The aromas aren't overly powerful - green apple and lime, with something weightier in the background, almost a smokiness.
Another thing I love about rose is its tendency towards creaminess with a hint of strawberries that comes after the acidity mellows out in the mouth. It doesn't always happen, but happily in this case it has. The wine is bone dry, and the first impression is of bracing acidity and a hint of effervescence. The wine then evolves a slight astringency and bitterness (there is some skin contact in the wine-making processes, which gives the wine its color, and can also lend depth of flavor and structure), then comes that delicious strawberries and cream. I'd be happy to drink roses all winter long!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Unknown
Region: Italy, Veneto
Price: $15
My rating: 91/100
I'm not entirely sure what the blend of grapes is in this particular wine. Bardolino is the appellation, and also the type of wine (called Bardolino Chiaretto in the case of roses), but the grapes can be a blend of several, such as corvina, rondinella, and molinara. They are the same grapes used in Valpolicella, a wine that became one of my favorites after a trip to Venice a couple of years ago.
This wine is absolutely beautiful in the glass. One of the things I love about rose wines is the range of colors they can assume. This one is is salmon pink, weighted heavily on the orange side. The aromas aren't overly powerful - green apple and lime, with something weightier in the background, almost a smokiness.
Another thing I love about rose is its tendency towards creaminess with a hint of strawberries that comes after the acidity mellows out in the mouth. It doesn't always happen, but happily in this case it has. The wine is bone dry, and the first impression is of bracing acidity and a hint of effervescence. The wine then evolves a slight astringency and bitterness (there is some skin contact in the wine-making processes, which gives the wine its color, and can also lend depth of flavor and structure), then comes that delicious strawberries and cream. I'd be happy to drink roses all winter long!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Unknown
Region: Italy, Veneto
Price: $15
My rating: 91/100
Saturday, January 22, 2011
2005 Abbaye de St-Ferme Bordeaux Supérieur Les Vignes du Soir
Yes! It's a 2005 Bordeaux! 2005 was touted as the "vintage of the century" for Bordeaux. Now it's 2009 (keep your eyes peeled - they're starting to roll into US shops!). This is by no means a Premier Cru wine - Bordeaux Supérieur is essentially a generic appellation within the region of Bordeaux, distinct from plain old Bordeaux AOC by having more alcohol in it. This doesn't mean it's not a good wine, though. I could go on for days about the issues related to the Bordeaux classification system (and believe me, some people have), but to be concise: the current ranking system of many Bordeaux wines was erected in 1855 and hasn't really changed much since. So it's not exactly based on up-to-the-minute quality.
The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.
In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux. Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100
The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.
In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux. Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100
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