2003 Lacoste-Borie Pauillac

I haven't really done anything to earn a nice Bordeaux for tonight. Call it a reward for going to the laundromat two weeks in a row, maybe? Of course, I've used put my entire wine budget for the week, so I'll be paying for this bottle by Tuesday when I have to drink water (the horror...).

The bottle age is certainly showing on the rim of this ruby red wine, with significant browning towards the edges. The wine is not particularly dense in color; it almost looks like a weighty new world Pinot Noir. But in aromas, I wouldn't mistake it (I hope) for anything but a Bordeaux. The nose is earthy, flinty (but not in a struck match kind of way), with more than a hint of sour red cherry and red currant and a bit of barnyard. I also get some new oak aromas, predominantly cocoa and toast.

It's not as big in the mouth than I might have expected from such a landmark year for Bordeaux, but it's certainly an estimable wine, nonetheless.  More sour cherry, moderate acid and slightly scratchy tannins, all in balance with the alcohol. There's not bitterness, but I am sensing a faint metallic taste that is detracting a bit from my enjoyment. It disappears on the finish, however, giving way to some serious earthiness - like a forest floor in fall. I'm not kidding! Leaf litter, turned earth, and some sour berries dropped off of plants for good measure. This may not be an appealing description, but it's actually quite enjoyable. Just don't go telling people that I told you to go lick a forest floor. Drink the wine instead.

Vintage: 2003
Region: Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (proportions unknown)
Price: $37

2005 Blason-d'Issan Margaux

Tonight's wine is a splurge. (That's such a gross word, isn't it?) It's Bastille Day, and I'm opening up a bottle of French wine that I full expect to knock my chausettes off. I haven't been tasting much Bordeaux since I returned from France nearly a month ago, because I tasted so much good wine there, that I was afraid I might be disappointed that I doesn't taste as good in America. You know, the ambience and all. But then I realized that was stupid. So here goes.

Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.

The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....

I want to dive into the glass.

But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)

Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43

2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Bordeaux

Look at me, posting twice in one week. Today we have a Bordeaux, but I'm pretty sure it's made in a more modern, international style than a traditional Bordeaux. I base this on two things - I have read that this wine will peak in 2011-2012, which is a very short time for a Bordeaux; and it has 14.5% ABV. If I could whistle, I would be doing so now. Granted 2009 was a warm year in Bordeaux, so higher sugar (and hence alcohol) levels are to be expected, but 14.5% is still more indicative of California than France.

The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.

On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......

Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17

2009 Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé

I hereby proclaim it officially Spring! Yes, it snowed only 2 days ago, and there is still some of the nefarious white stuff on the ground, but the sun was warm today and I'm breaking out the rosé. This was my rosé of choice last summer - it's inexpensive, delicious, and ubiquitous. There were 10,000 cases imported into the United States, so chances are you can find it just about anywhere.

Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.

The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!

Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10

2008 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

The last California Cab I tasted left me with kind of a bad taste in my mouth. So I decided to try another to see if I can wash it away. Justin is a widely-distributed brand - I got this bottle at Trader Joe's - and I've been told nothing can beat it when paired with a nice juicy steak. While I am a little suspicious of this claim (and I'm not eating any steak), I thought I'd give it a whirl.

The aromas are a hint more refined than the last Cab; I get some spicy herbs - dill, maybe - and some toasty cedar along with classic oaky vanilla, black plums, and black currants. The palate, however, is light years ahead of the Sean Minor. It definitely has some serious alcohol (you could probably use this as mouthwash - and very tasty mouthwash it would be), but enough acid to match it, juicy fruits but not overripe and not overpowered by the oak. I can certainly see pairing this with a juicy grilled steak (can you believe I was a vegetarian for 10 years? I can't...), and it's also quite nice with the penne pasta, broccoli rabe, and Italian sausage that's on my dinner plate.

My only "suggestions" for the winemakers (should I be so bold) would be - a little more tannin (it's there, and it's soft, but it's not an equal ingredient with the sourness and heat) and a little less alcohol. I wouldn't be surprised if this wine had an ABV of over 15%. Ouch. Other than that - nom!

Vintage: 2008
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Paso Robles, California
Price: $21

2007 Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon

I'm not entirely sure why I bought this wine, because generally when I see it in a store, I am not inspired. It must have been on sale. In any case, I'm expecting a rather average California Cab with a lot of fruit and alcohol, and maybe not much else. But we shall see.

It looks and smells like a California Cab - deep ruby in color and aromas of black currant, green pepper, and a bit of green tomato leaf as well. It doesn't smell too overly ripe, though I definitely get a lot of ripe fruit on the palate, and a moderate lack of acidity that would indicate a good deal of hang time for the grapes. There are some tannins, which are soft and ripe, and the wine isn't a complete fruit bomb. But it does lack some elegance and complexity. I'm getting sweet currants, toasty oak, and lots and lots of alcholol burn. The finish is fruity and fairly short.

While not a badly made wine at all, I'd classify this as very typical, middle-of-the-road California Cabernet Sauvignon. I'm still not inspired.

Vintage: 2007
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: North Coast, California
Price: $18

2007 Foris Fly-Over Rogue Valley

What's this, a non-French wine?! Indeed, I have returned to the good ol' US, at least for this wine. And boy was it worth it. I suppose you could call it a "Meritage" since it's a blend of traditional Bordeaux grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc - but I don't know if it counts because it's from Oregon, not California. But really, who cares, because it is so good. It's a deep garnet in the glass, and aromas of clove, mineral, and grape jam form a sweet-savory nose that doesn't quite warn you for the juiciness of the wine on the palate. It's a touch sweet with sourness and alcohol in perfect balance. The tannins are present but soft and refined, and frankly it tastes like fresh cherry juice going down.

This is a really short post, but frankly I don't have a lot more to say. The wine is good. And I rather be drinking it than typing right now.

Vintage: 2007
Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Price: $13

2005 L'Oca Ciuca Toscana "The Drunken Goose"

I'll have to rely on someone who knows more Italian than "Grazie" and "Bongiorno" to tell me if L'Oca Ciuca actually means "The Drunken Goose," but either way it was good enough to get me to buy this bottle of Italian red. Not that I generally require that much persuasion. This is one of the so-called "Supertuscans" who operate outside the Italian wine laws by adding such grapes as cabernet sauvignon and merlot to their sangiovese. The horror! This particular blend is of sangiovese, merlot, and syrah.

It's an opaque garnet in the glass, with just a hint of browning towards the rim. The aromas are dense with dark fruits - blueberries and plums, mostly - and some palpable cocoa as well. The deliciousness extends to the palate. It's not at all sweet, but the fruits are juicy, the acid in perfect balance with the fine tannins and alcohol. Despite it's modest price, I suspect this wine could actually age a few more years and still evolve. The finish is a little sour, but overall the wine is very pleasant. I can see why the goose got drunk.

Vintage: 2005
Grape: Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah
Region: Tuscany
Price: $12

2005 Abbaye de St-Ferme Bordeaux Supérieur Les Vignes du Soir

Yes! It's a 2005 Bordeaux! 2005 was touted as the "vintage of the century" for Bordeaux. Now it's 2009 (keep your eyes peeled - they're starting to roll into US shops!).  This is by no means a Premier Cru wine - Bordeaux Supérieur is essentially a generic appellation within the region of Bordeaux, distinct from plain old Bordeaux AOC by having more alcohol in it. This doesn't mean it's not a good wine, though. I could go on for days about the issues related to the Bordeaux classification system (and believe me, some people have), but to be concise: the current ranking system of many Bordeaux wines was erected in 1855 and hasn't really changed much since. So it's not exactly based on up-to-the-minute quality.

The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.

In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux.  Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!

Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100

2006 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon Napa-Mendocino-Sonoma Counties

After spending all day selling bottles of wine, I start to get a little jealous of all the people going home to crack open a bottle. Therefore, I always find myself particularly excited to do the same when I finally get home. Hopefully this wine will fulfill my expectations. I'm a little nervous about the "tri-county" sourcing of grapes for this wine. It's not that I strictly believe that good wines have to be from a specific vineyard or appellation, but I sometimes suspect that a blend of grapes from different locales is a tactic for either covering up faults in one of the regions' grapes, or ensuring a high degree of consistency (i.e. predictability and possible boringness) from year to year. But I'll give it a whirl anyway.

It's a very deep ruby in the glass, with just a hint of orange at the rim. There isn't much fruit on the nose, more toast and tobacco, rather herbal and licoricey.  But there's some nice black currant in the mouth, along with some more licorice, and a touch of smokiness. The acid, alcohol, and tannin are delightfully balanced, and the finish is long and juicy and tart. This is a delicious wine!  Worth the wait, for sure.

Vintage: 2006
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Napa-Mendocino-Sonoma Counties
Price: $20
My rating: 92/100

2008 Villa Vallemaggiore Maremma Toscana Campostella

I'm on an Italy kick these days, it seems. This wine, also from Tuscany, is one of the so-called "supertuscans," which essentially means that the winemakers didn't follow the rules set out by the Italian government, thus there wine is not "classifiable." This particular winemaker broke the rules by blending 15% cabernet sauvignon into his or her sangiovese. This often has the effect of taming sangiovese's prevalent acid and tannins, making for a more approachable wine, in the international sense.

This one is a lovely medium crimson in the glass, obviously still quite young as it hasn't taken on any browns or oranges, even towards the rim. I feel like I can sense some of the cabernet sauvignon on the nose, as there is a distinct aroma of currants, some green pepper, and some oak. But in the mouth, this is most definitely a sangiovese. Sour city. The tannins aren't overpowering, but are fairly wooly and unrefined. I would classify this as a "rustic" wine. The finish is short and bitter, and there isn't much in the way of fruit on the palette. A little currant and spice, perhaps, but it isn't pronounced. This wine will be fine with dinner, but I wouldn't just sit down to a glass of it unaccompanied (often how I feel about sangiovese-dominant wines). 83.

2007 Los Maquis Calcu Colchagua Valley

Chile, reportedly, has one of the most ideal climates and situations for great winemaking in the world. And land is cheap, so everybody and their uncle is making wine. A lot of the wine is great, and very inexpensive to purchase. But I've noticed that, on more than one occasion, I've smelled some...unfortunate....aromas wafting from a glass of Chilean wine. For example, the sauvignon blanc that smelled like a farm shed (tractor oil, livestock, and rotting vegetation). This is not to say that all Chilean wines smell like yuck, but...it's an observation.

The wine I'm tasting today, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, has a very appealing dark garnet color in the glass. A little cloudy, which is unusual in these days when most wines are expected to be clear and without sediment, but doesn't mean anything is wrong with the wine.

I admit my nose to the glass and...grape popsicle and POOP. Okay, so professional winetasters don't say poop. They say "barnyard" or "manure." Actually in this case, barnyard might be quite appropriate, as not only does the wine smell like ordure, but there's also a hearty whiff of decaying vegetation. This is not a happy-smelling wine.  So, let's try it in the mouth (if I must).....

Better. Whew. Good balance between the bracing acidity and the moderate but refined tannins. It's medium in body, a little "hot" - meaning that the alcohol is a little high and isn't quite in balance with the other elements in the wine - and a bit lacking in complexity and concentration. There is a hint of the aroma that carries over to the palate, but it comes across more as just overripe black cherry, rather than actual rot.

So, if you can get past the poop on the nose (ew), it's an okay wine. But...why would you want to drink something that smells like a barnyard? I give it an 80.

2007 Mad Bay Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Oh, those crazy Australians, first I find Madfish Bay, now just Mad Bay...who can be mad when there is wine to be tasted (even if you are a fish!)?

This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, its father Cabernet Franc, and Merlot (the flesh on the bones) is a classic Bordeaux combination, but transported far south to Australia. The grapes come from an area of Western Australia, Margaret River, that is often described as having a similar climate as Bordeaux. The color of this resultant wine is a vibrant, dark ruby with just a little orange starting at the rim, indicating the some aging. The aroma is far more Bordeaux-like than I was expecting. Even with the same blend of grapes, "New World" wines tend to be fruitier and fleshier than most austere terroir-driven Bordeaux wines. But this wine has earthy notes of dried grass and a forest in the fall, with just a hint of blackcurrant in the background.

In the mouth, it's not quite as pleasant. It finishes well, with a nice blend of grassy and blackfruit flavors, and a bit of cocoa powder, but these only evolve after your tastebuds are rather assaulted with acid and bitterness. Frankly, I've had this experience with Bordeaux in the past, so perhaps the winemakers were merely striving for regional authenticity? What it lacks that Bordeaux tends to have in abundance is tannin. Only the faintest hint of astringency is there, which may be why the acid is beating me over the head - there's not much there to balance it out.

So, the finish makes it a drinkable wine, but I think these grapes could have used a little more time on the vine and/or a warmer growing season so they could develop more sugars and the phenolic ripeness they crave and dispense with some of that acid. And it needs to be consumed with lots of soft cheese. I give it an 84.

2006 Vintjs Cabernet Sauvignon

Trader Joe's has some really awful wine (I'm sorry, but there's a reason it's called 3-buck chuck - it's fit only for male ruminants as far as I'm concerned). But, Trader Joe's also has some excellent value wines. The 2006 Vintijs (pronounced "Vintage") Cabernet Sauvignon is one. I acutally think it could be a cellar-worthy wine. At 4 years old, in the glass the rim is just beginning to take on an orange tint, and in the mouth the tannins are just starting to mellow. They'll smooth out in a year or two, but they're by no means aggressive right now. It'll stand up to some time.

The wine carries raspberry, red currant, and nutmeg on the nose, which seems appropriate to the ruby red hue. The acidity is pronounced, but in balance with the alcohol and the tannins, leaving you with a short but fruit-juicy and spicy finish.

Drinks like a much pricier wine. Well worth the $10! I give it an 85/100.