I love it the term "unwooded" is used to describe a wine that has not been fermented or aged in oak barrels, but rather in stainless stell. It just sounds so...Australian. And indeed, this unwooded wine does hail from South Australia, a preposterously large appellation that produces more than half of all Australia's yearly output of wine. To be sure, there's a lot of bulk wine to wade through, but some great wines are produced here as well.
The unoaked chardonnay is a medium-deep yellow with hints of gold. The aromas are undemonstrative, as is common in chardonnay, but there is some nice lemon and green apple, but also a chalky minerality. The wine isn't as acidic as it smells, but is in fact quite well-balanced in its elements. The alcohol may be a bit high, but not enough so to overpower the acidity (Certainly nowhere approaching the 15.1% California chardonnay I ran into today!), and it gives the wine a delicious weight and viscosity on the palate. There's plenty of fruit there, too: lemon zest, granny smith apple, and honedew melon. Yummy.
The Steeple Jack wines are some of Ballast Stone's more economical lines of wine, but the low price tag certainly doesn't mean low quality. I'll certainly keep an eye out for their other varietals in this line.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: South Australia
Price: $10
Showing posts with label 2009. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2009. Show all posts
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Friday, May 27, 2011
2009 S.A. Prum Riesling QbA Mosel Essence
I almost didn't buy this wine. I have an aversion to wines from non-English-speaking countries that use English words in their names. The ostentatious "Essence" written upside the bottle nearly turned me off. It's too much like "Relax" riesling from Germany or, god forbid, "Blue Ridge" which you'd think would come from somewhere in the Appalachian mountains, but actually comes from Bulgaria.
But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.
The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).
It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.
All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14
But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.
The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).
It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.
All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Bordeaux
Look at me, posting twice in one week. Today we have a Bordeaux, but I'm pretty sure it's made in a more modern, international style than a traditional Bordeaux. I base this on two things - I have read that this wine will peak in 2011-2012, which is a very short time for a Bordeaux; and it has 14.5% ABV. If I could whistle, I would be doing so now. Granted 2009 was a warm year in Bordeaux, so higher sugar (and hence alcohol) levels are to be expected, but 14.5% is still more indicative of California than France.
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
Sunday, April 3, 2011
2009 Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé
I hereby proclaim it officially Spring! Yes, it snowed only 2 days ago, and there is still some of the nefarious white stuff on the ground, but the sun was warm today and I'm breaking out the rosé. This was my rosé of choice last summer - it's inexpensive, delicious, and ubiquitous. There were 10,000 cases imported into the United States, so chances are you can find it just about anywhere.
Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.
The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10
Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.
The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10
Sunday, March 20, 2011
2009 4 Bears Pinot Noir Carneros Sean Minor
I'm back from a lovely sojourn to northern California, during which I bought (and consumed) some very lovely wines in Sonoma County. This isn't one of them. Not that it isn't a lovely wine, it's just not one I bought or consumed on my trip. Anyway....
It's a medium-pale ruby in the glass, not dense but quite brilliant. It smells of ripe black cherries (too ripe, maybe?), tons of oak, and a hint of something minerally - like a bucket of rainwater. This is not a delicate pinot noir. I do tend to think of New World Pinots, especially those from California, as being less delicate than, say, a Burgundy, but I actually tasted a few out in Sonoma that had an almost elusive balance between fruit and spice; not austere, but merely delicate and nuanced. For example, the yet-to-be-released 2009 Pech Merle and the 2008 Ten Acre DuNah Vineyard from Bella. If these wines are graceful wild horses, then Sean Minor is a clydesdale.
On the palate, the alcohol hits me first ( robust 14.5%), followed by a dense black, stewed fruits with a bitter edge. The acidity and tannins are there, but are vastly outshadowed by the heat and sweet fruits. It's not undrinkable by any means, but is drastically out of balance. That said, the finish is long and pleasantly juicy. I can see drinking this with something salty and sweet, like turkey and cranberries or pork chops and apricots.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Carneros, Napa Valley
Price: $20
It's a medium-pale ruby in the glass, not dense but quite brilliant. It smells of ripe black cherries (too ripe, maybe?), tons of oak, and a hint of something minerally - like a bucket of rainwater. This is not a delicate pinot noir. I do tend to think of New World Pinots, especially those from California, as being less delicate than, say, a Burgundy, but I actually tasted a few out in Sonoma that had an almost elusive balance between fruit and spice; not austere, but merely delicate and nuanced. For example, the yet-to-be-released 2009 Pech Merle and the 2008 Ten Acre DuNah Vineyard from Bella. If these wines are graceful wild horses, then Sean Minor is a clydesdale.
On the palate, the alcohol hits me first ( robust 14.5%), followed by a dense black, stewed fruits with a bitter edge. The acidity and tannins are there, but are vastly outshadowed by the heat and sweet fruits. It's not undrinkable by any means, but is drastically out of balance. That said, the finish is long and pleasantly juicy. I can see drinking this with something salty and sweet, like turkey and cranberries or pork chops and apricots.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Carneros, Napa Valley
Price: $20
Sunday, March 6, 2011
2009 Schild GMS Barossa
First, to clarify, "GMS" stands for Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz," a blend of grapes that is fairly popular in Australia (and to some degree in South Africa). Of course, you see it in sourthern France as well, where it presumably originated, though it isn't Shiraz in France, but Syrah. Same grape, different name.
The wine is a bright ruby in the glass - I'd guess that Grenache composes the greatest percentage of the blend given the color. There's a good deal of characteristically Grenache and Shiras black pepperiness and smoke, in the nose, which I always love, some charred oak (but not too much), some barnyard, and some red chili spice. Unfortunately the fruits on the nose are dark and dense, like stewed prunes or raisins. I suspect they waited a bit too long to harvest these grapes in the hot, sunny Barossa Valley.
My suspicions are supported by the way the wine performs on the palate. The first sensation is one of overwhelming heat. The alcohol burn is intense, even with a hint of residual sugar in the wine (i.e. not all of it was fermented and ended up as alcohol, meaning there had to be a lot of sugar to begin with). The wine is surprisingly acidic, though, making me think the winemakers may have "adjusted" the level of acid. This sort of monkeying is hard to hide; added acid rarely integrates seemlessly into a wine.
Criticisms aside, the fruits are still present in the mouth, albeit overripe tasting, and linger on forever - this wine has one of the longest finishes I've ever experienced. It's not an elegant wine - more a bull than a ballerina - but it's acceptable for what it is. Even bulls have their place in the wine world. Just drink it with a pepper steak and not a filet of salmon.
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Price: $18
NB I tasted a "GMS" blend from d'Arenberg the other day that cost half as much as this one, and was twice the quality in terms of winemaking prowess. Go for the Stump Jump instead!
The wine is a bright ruby in the glass - I'd guess that Grenache composes the greatest percentage of the blend given the color. There's a good deal of characteristically Grenache and Shiras black pepperiness and smoke, in the nose, which I always love, some charred oak (but not too much), some barnyard, and some red chili spice. Unfortunately the fruits on the nose are dark and dense, like stewed prunes or raisins. I suspect they waited a bit too long to harvest these grapes in the hot, sunny Barossa Valley.
My suspicions are supported by the way the wine performs on the palate. The first sensation is one of overwhelming heat. The alcohol burn is intense, even with a hint of residual sugar in the wine (i.e. not all of it was fermented and ended up as alcohol, meaning there had to be a lot of sugar to begin with). The wine is surprisingly acidic, though, making me think the winemakers may have "adjusted" the level of acid. This sort of monkeying is hard to hide; added acid rarely integrates seemlessly into a wine.
Criticisms aside, the fruits are still present in the mouth, albeit overripe tasting, and linger on forever - this wine has one of the longest finishes I've ever experienced. It's not an elegant wine - more a bull than a ballerina - but it's acceptable for what it is. Even bulls have their place in the wine world. Just drink it with a pepper steak and not a filet of salmon.
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Price: $18
NB I tasted a "GMS" blend from d'Arenberg the other day that cost half as much as this one, and was twice the quality in terms of winemaking prowess. Go for the Stump Jump instead!
Monday, February 28, 2011
2009 Columbia Crest Gewürztraminer Washington Two Vines
Most people would probably look at me as though I had just sprouted a third head if I said, "I've really been craving a gewürztraminer lately." But I'm confident that most people reading this will know what I'm talking about and realize it is not an unusual eastern European sausage variety. I love gewürztraminer's rich fruity flavors and aromas, and I love the touch of sweetness that you get in the best of them. This, I have to say, is probably not the best of them. It was the only one they had at Trader Joe's and I was desperate. But I'm willing to give it the benefit of the doubt.
I can tell by looking at it that it has some sweetness to it. Sugar and alcohol can both make a wine viscous, and I'm willing to bet this wine isn't too high in alcohol. Because of their inherent high sugar content, gewürztraminer grapes can make high alcohol wines if fermented dry, so I suppose it could go either way. But my vote is for sweet.
The wine is strangely unaromatic for a gewürztraminer. I've read that gewürztraminer grapes and lychees share some aromatic compounds, hence the signature lychee aroma you often get in a gewürztraminer. This wine doesn't have even a hint of it. There is some ripe apricot, a sweet malty aroma, and honey, but no lychee. I can't pretend not to be a little disappointed (lychees always remind me of my graduate work in Mexico, when the little kids in the village where I was working would bring me bags of lychees). But the wine is surprisingly flavorful in the mouth. More apricot, as well as something a little petrol-like (I would easily mistake this for a riesling in a blind tasting, actually), and not a little sweetness. The acidity is lower than I like, and that plus the viscosity makes the wine a little flabby, although the sweetness could be camouflaging the sourness a bit. There is certainly some alcohol content, but it's not out of whack.
Overall, this is a wine that I wouldn't turn up my nose at, were someone to hand me a bottle. Of course, short of a bottle of sherry (a.k.a. salted mushrooms stuffed into a dirty gym sock and buried in the back yard for 3 months), there really aren't any wines I'd refuse to drink. I'm not as much of a snob as I pretend to be.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Gewürztraminer
Region: Washington State
Price: $7
I can tell by looking at it that it has some sweetness to it. Sugar and alcohol can both make a wine viscous, and I'm willing to bet this wine isn't too high in alcohol. Because of their inherent high sugar content, gewürztraminer grapes can make high alcohol wines if fermented dry, so I suppose it could go either way. But my vote is for sweet.
The wine is strangely unaromatic for a gewürztraminer. I've read that gewürztraminer grapes and lychees share some aromatic compounds, hence the signature lychee aroma you often get in a gewürztraminer. This wine doesn't have even a hint of it. There is some ripe apricot, a sweet malty aroma, and honey, but no lychee. I can't pretend not to be a little disappointed (lychees always remind me of my graduate work in Mexico, when the little kids in the village where I was working would bring me bags of lychees). But the wine is surprisingly flavorful in the mouth. More apricot, as well as something a little petrol-like (I would easily mistake this for a riesling in a blind tasting, actually), and not a little sweetness. The acidity is lower than I like, and that plus the viscosity makes the wine a little flabby, although the sweetness could be camouflaging the sourness a bit. There is certainly some alcohol content, but it's not out of whack.
Overall, this is a wine that I wouldn't turn up my nose at, were someone to hand me a bottle. Of course, short of a bottle of sherry (a.k.a. salted mushrooms stuffed into a dirty gym sock and buried in the back yard for 3 months), there really aren't any wines I'd refuse to drink. I'm not as much of a snob as I pretend to be.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Gewürztraminer
Region: Washington State
Price: $7
Friday, February 18, 2011
2009 Laboure-Roi Mâcon-Villages St.-Armand
Another wine in my recent French exploration! It's been fun, and I may continue for a while, but...I think Italy may be calling. Stay tuned. But for the meantime, I present a bourgogne blanc - a white Burgundy - from the Macon region. Laboure-Roi is the third largest Burgundy producer, and it has been around forever. Well, at least since 1832. They make wines in a number of appellations and at a variety of price points. This is one of the cheap ones, but I think their quality is fairly reliable.
The color is a relatively deep gold for such a young wine. I suspect it's seen a bit of oak, although I can't detect a lot of toastiness on the nose, which would darken the color. The nose also carries a lot of yeasty, baking bread aromas, which means the wine was left to age on its lees - the dead yeast cells - which may possibly darken the color as well. There is a bit of fresh fruit on the nose, such as green apple and honeydew, but the aromas are pretty subdued.
The wine very easy-going in the mouth. Moderate acid and a touch of sugar to lend viscosity. It's not what I'd call an exciting wine; in fact it's pretty pedestrian. But it's tasty and the flavors of yeast, toast, and fresh fruit are concentrated, if not complex. A very easy drinking wine, and accessible to most people, I'd imagine. And emphatically not overoaked, like many a California chardonnay. I'd recommend this wine if you're looking for something simple to serve to guests who aren't adventurous when it comes to wine. It's good and safe.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Macon, Burgundy
Price: $13
The color is a relatively deep gold for such a young wine. I suspect it's seen a bit of oak, although I can't detect a lot of toastiness on the nose, which would darken the color. The nose also carries a lot of yeasty, baking bread aromas, which means the wine was left to age on its lees - the dead yeast cells - which may possibly darken the color as well. There is a bit of fresh fruit on the nose, such as green apple and honeydew, but the aromas are pretty subdued.
The wine very easy-going in the mouth. Moderate acid and a touch of sugar to lend viscosity. It's not what I'd call an exciting wine; in fact it's pretty pedestrian. But it's tasty and the flavors of yeast, toast, and fresh fruit are concentrated, if not complex. A very easy drinking wine, and accessible to most people, I'd imagine. And emphatically not overoaked, like many a California chardonnay. I'd recommend this wine if you're looking for something simple to serve to guests who aren't adventurous when it comes to wine. It's good and safe.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Macon, Burgundy
Price: $13
Friday, February 4, 2011
2009 Cave des Vignerons de Saumur White Les Pouches
Chenin blanc can have a very pronounced, somewhat telltale aroma. Some people think it smells like wet dog. Others think it smells like skunk. I think it smells like stinky blue cheese. Not always, and it becomes more pronounced, I think, when winemaking practices are less than idea (or sanitary).
This chenin blanc from the Saumur region of the Loire Valley smells like blue cheese. But not too much. A fine gorgonzola, perhaps, as opposed to a stinky stilton. There is also a cool mineral aroma, almost musty. I'm not getting any fruit to speak of.
The wine is bone-dry on the palate, and very sour. I did make the mistake of having some ice cream before tasting, though I tried to cleanse my palate. Sweet foods can make a dry wine taste overly sour and one-dimensional. So it could be that, but really I'm finding the wine quite thin in flavor, with some burning acidity. I can't really say whether it's balanced or not, because there's nothing there to balance. I'll have ot retaste this wine sometime pre-ice cream and see if it's any better. Because right now it's kind of like a glass of ice water with fake lemon juice squeezed into it.
Vintage: 2009
Region: Saumur, Loire Valley, France
Grape: Chenin Blanc
Price: $15
This chenin blanc from the Saumur region of the Loire Valley smells like blue cheese. But not too much. A fine gorgonzola, perhaps, as opposed to a stinky stilton. There is also a cool mineral aroma, almost musty. I'm not getting any fruit to speak of.
The wine is bone-dry on the palate, and very sour. I did make the mistake of having some ice cream before tasting, though I tried to cleanse my palate. Sweet foods can make a dry wine taste overly sour and one-dimensional. So it could be that, but really I'm finding the wine quite thin in flavor, with some burning acidity. I can't really say whether it's balanced or not, because there's nothing there to balance. I'll have ot retaste this wine sometime pre-ice cream and see if it's any better. Because right now it's kind of like a glass of ice water with fake lemon juice squeezed into it.
Vintage: 2009
Region: Saumur, Loire Valley, France
Grape: Chenin Blanc
Price: $15
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
2009 Celestin Blondeau Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays du Val de Loire
My wine class is discussing Loire wines, among others, this week so I'm...ahem...doing homework. I've had some lovely Loire wines in the past, including a 1989 Vouvray that I've probably mentioned before because it blew my socks off, or would have if I had been wearing any. I haven't had any real stinkers, but from what I understand, they are certainly out there. The viticulture & vinification restrictions in some parts of the Loire aren't as strict as other regions of France (for example, Bordeaux, where you can only pick grapes with your left hand every second Thursday of the month; I'm exaggerating, but not by much). This had led to some sloppy winemaking and overcropping practices that have left some people with a sour (literally) taste in their mouthes when it comes to Loire wines.
This one likely isn't of superior class - for one thing it says "Sauvignon Blanc" on the bottle, which is rarely a good sign on a French wine. Those strict French wine laws generally discourage - and sometimes prohibit - use of the varietal name anywhere on the bottle. Which is why you'll often have absolutely no idea what kind of grape is in the bottle you're holding in your hand. They like it that way. This wine is also just a generic "Loire," not from any specific appellation within the region, which means the grapes could come from anywhere and the laws limiting crop yield and winemaking procedures are less strict.
It's a surprisingly deep green-yellow in the glass, and what may be effervescence, or may just be that I poured a little too vigorously. The nose isn't leaping out of the glass at me, but it's pleasant enough. It's a little musty (not in a "corked" way, but just smells a little dusty, and there is some distinct brine on the nose as well, which I understand isn't uncommon for Loire wines. Which is one of the reasons they pair so well with seafood, I imagine. There is also some fruit - dried apricot and and maybe some graprefruit rind as well.
On the palate, it's actually surprisingly lacking in acidity. I mean, it's not missing altogether but this is by no means a classic cool-climate sauvignon blanc. So it's tending towards flabby and the texture is a bit oily in the mouth. A touch bitter, though that gives way to a bit more acidity on the finish. There isn't much fruit in the mouth or, really, much of anything. It's not disgusting, and it'll work fine for dinner tonight (shrimp in lemon and oregano vinaigrette), but it's not a wine I would hold up as a paragon of Loire winemaking.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Loire Valley, France
Price: $13
This one likely isn't of superior class - for one thing it says "Sauvignon Blanc" on the bottle, which is rarely a good sign on a French wine. Those strict French wine laws generally discourage - and sometimes prohibit - use of the varietal name anywhere on the bottle. Which is why you'll often have absolutely no idea what kind of grape is in the bottle you're holding in your hand. They like it that way. This wine is also just a generic "Loire," not from any specific appellation within the region, which means the grapes could come from anywhere and the laws limiting crop yield and winemaking procedures are less strict.
It's a surprisingly deep green-yellow in the glass, and what may be effervescence, or may just be that I poured a little too vigorously. The nose isn't leaping out of the glass at me, but it's pleasant enough. It's a little musty (not in a "corked" way, but just smells a little dusty, and there is some distinct brine on the nose as well, which I understand isn't uncommon for Loire wines. Which is one of the reasons they pair so well with seafood, I imagine. There is also some fruit - dried apricot and and maybe some graprefruit rind as well.
On the palate, it's actually surprisingly lacking in acidity. I mean, it's not missing altogether but this is by no means a classic cool-climate sauvignon blanc. So it's tending towards flabby and the texture is a bit oily in the mouth. A touch bitter, though that gives way to a bit more acidity on the finish. There isn't much fruit in the mouth or, really, much of anything. It's not disgusting, and it'll work fine for dinner tonight (shrimp in lemon and oregano vinaigrette), but it's not a wine I would hold up as a paragon of Loire winemaking.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Loire Valley, France
Price: $13
Friday, January 28, 2011
2009 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Regional Collection
Quick post this time, because I'm just really anxious to taste this wine. I found it on sale for $11 (normally $14, but still), and I just couldn't resist it. I've become quite a fan of the New Zealand sauvignon blanc, perhaps because they smell like the tropics. And believe me, buried under a cumulative 3+ feet of snow as I am, I could really use some tropics.
It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today!
Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14
PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey. Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever. I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!
It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today!
Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14
PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey. Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever. I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
2009 Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto Rodòn
So, it's not technically rose season. Not that wines really have a season, but I always think of rose as a hot weather thing. But this one called my name, and I thought it would pair delicously with the chicken and olive vinaigrette I'm planning for dinner tonight. I must begin by emphasizing the fact that not all rose is a blush wine, a la Beringer or Riunite. It doesn't have to be sweet, and it doesn't have to be...nasty. In fact, I love rose. Roses just have a bad reputation, much like pitbulls, as a result of people mistreating them.
I'm not entirely sure what the blend of grapes is in this particular wine. Bardolino is the appellation, and also the type of wine (called Bardolino Chiaretto in the case of roses), but the grapes can be a blend of several, such as corvina, rondinella, and molinara. They are the same grapes used in Valpolicella, a wine that became one of my favorites after a trip to Venice a couple of years ago.
This wine is absolutely beautiful in the glass. One of the things I love about rose wines is the range of colors they can assume. This one is is salmon pink, weighted heavily on the orange side. The aromas aren't overly powerful - green apple and lime, with something weightier in the background, almost a smokiness.
Another thing I love about rose is its tendency towards creaminess with a hint of strawberries that comes after the acidity mellows out in the mouth. It doesn't always happen, but happily in this case it has. The wine is bone dry, and the first impression is of bracing acidity and a hint of effervescence. The wine then evolves a slight astringency and bitterness (there is some skin contact in the wine-making processes, which gives the wine its color, and can also lend depth of flavor and structure), then comes that delicious strawberries and cream. I'd be happy to drink roses all winter long!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Unknown
Region: Italy, Veneto
Price: $15
My rating: 91/100
I'm not entirely sure what the blend of grapes is in this particular wine. Bardolino is the appellation, and also the type of wine (called Bardolino Chiaretto in the case of roses), but the grapes can be a blend of several, such as corvina, rondinella, and molinara. They are the same grapes used in Valpolicella, a wine that became one of my favorites after a trip to Venice a couple of years ago.
This wine is absolutely beautiful in the glass. One of the things I love about rose wines is the range of colors they can assume. This one is is salmon pink, weighted heavily on the orange side. The aromas aren't overly powerful - green apple and lime, with something weightier in the background, almost a smokiness.
Another thing I love about rose is its tendency towards creaminess with a hint of strawberries that comes after the acidity mellows out in the mouth. It doesn't always happen, but happily in this case it has. The wine is bone dry, and the first impression is of bracing acidity and a hint of effervescence. The wine then evolves a slight astringency and bitterness (there is some skin contact in the wine-making processes, which gives the wine its color, and can also lend depth of flavor and structure), then comes that delicious strawberries and cream. I'd be happy to drink roses all winter long!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Unknown
Region: Italy, Veneto
Price: $15
My rating: 91/100
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
2009 Heinrich Seebrich Riesling Kabinett Rheinhessen Niersteiner Ölberg
I am soooooo excited for this wine. I might be drinking it a bit on the early side; the high acidity in many German rieslings will allow the wine to age and improve for much longer than most white wines. I bet this wine will be even better in 5 or 10 years. Of course, I haven't yet tasted it, so perhaps I speak too soon.....
It's a light lemon yellow with hints of silver in the glass - I might think it was a sauvignon blanc if I guessed merely on sight. There is also a hint of effervescence, likely due to the screwcap. There is some hefty lime on the nose - I can tell it's going to be sour! - along with some yeasty, baking bread aromas. This comes from the winemaker leaving the dead yeast cells (lees) in with the wine while it ages, and will also allow a wine to age better, along with the high acidity. There are also some floral and herbaceous notes - dill, I think. (I'm terrible with flower aromas - I clearly need to smell more flowers.)
Oh, yeah, I was right. This is a wine that could age for a few years. In addition to the acidity (which is certainly present, but not overpowering or out of balance) and the lees, there is also a hint of sweetness - sugar can help a wine age more gracefully. The designation kabinett, unless otherwise noted, does indicate a slightly sweet wine, but it is the "driest" of the different levels of ripeness by which German wines are ranked by law. I chose this particular wine because I'm making pork chops with apricots for dinner and I needed a wine that was as least as sweet as my entree. Drinking a dry wine with food that has some sweetness to it can make a great wine taste sour and boring.
That said, this is not a sweet wine by any means. The flavors are savory, dominated by dill and lime, and a touch of that distinctive riesling petrol or rubbery aroma (which Germans claim their wines don't have, but they do). i can still sense the effervescence on my tongue, which adds to the piquancy of the wine.
Now I have to go cook dinner before I drink all the wine by itself!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Rheinhessen, Germany
Price: $14
My rating: 90/100
It's a light lemon yellow with hints of silver in the glass - I might think it was a sauvignon blanc if I guessed merely on sight. There is also a hint of effervescence, likely due to the screwcap. There is some hefty lime on the nose - I can tell it's going to be sour! - along with some yeasty, baking bread aromas. This comes from the winemaker leaving the dead yeast cells (lees) in with the wine while it ages, and will also allow a wine to age better, along with the high acidity. There are also some floral and herbaceous notes - dill, I think. (I'm terrible with flower aromas - I clearly need to smell more flowers.)
Oh, yeah, I was right. This is a wine that could age for a few years. In addition to the acidity (which is certainly present, but not overpowering or out of balance) and the lees, there is also a hint of sweetness - sugar can help a wine age more gracefully. The designation kabinett, unless otherwise noted, does indicate a slightly sweet wine, but it is the "driest" of the different levels of ripeness by which German wines are ranked by law. I chose this particular wine because I'm making pork chops with apricots for dinner and I needed a wine that was as least as sweet as my entree. Drinking a dry wine with food that has some sweetness to it can make a great wine taste sour and boring.
That said, this is not a sweet wine by any means. The flavors are savory, dominated by dill and lime, and a touch of that distinctive riesling petrol or rubbery aroma (which Germans claim their wines don't have, but they do). i can still sense the effervescence on my tongue, which adds to the piquancy of the wine.
Now I have to go cook dinner before I drink all the wine by itself!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Rheinhessen, Germany
Price: $14
My rating: 90/100
Sunday, January 16, 2011
2009 Domaine du Rin du Bois Touraine Sauvignon
I went to the website of the producers of this wine because I was intrigued by the words "vigneron independant" (or something like that - the bottle is in the fridge and the dog is on my lap and I'm not getting up to look). I thoroughly enjoyed browsing around the site, not only because of the amusing infelicities of translation ("the vineyard" became "the wineyard." I think I would like to have a wineyard.) I was also very impressed by the level of detail it gives regarding the viticulture and vinification of the wine. Everything from the training system of the vines to the bottling date of the finished wine. Based on their use of free run juice (the first juice to come out of the grape upon being lightly pressed), I expect this to be a tasty sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley.
The wine is a medium-pale lemon yellow with a hint of green; not unusual for a sauvignon blanc. I can't get much aroma out of it (possibly because I sort of scorched some panko-crusted tilapia while making dinner and my apartment smells like a bad fish and chip shop). What I do get is green apple, but no cat pee, I'm pleased to report. In the mouth, it's pretty much a classic French sauvignon blanc, which is not at all a bad thing, though it's not something "special." The acid and alcohol in the wine are perfectly in balance, and the wine is pleasantly weighty, making it not a bad white wine to enjoy in winter. My biggest qualm would be a fairly high bitterness quotient. I think that's what got in the way of this wine's pairing with my dinner (once I scraped off the burned part). The tilapia was served with fennel tzatziki, and I think the bitterness of the wine and the bitterness of the yogurt in the sauce really clashed. But all in all, this is a very acceptable wine that I wouldn't hesitate to buy again, or to recommend with dinner, as long as you're not having yogurt....
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Touraine, Loire Valley
Price: $12
My rating: 87/100
The wine is a medium-pale lemon yellow with a hint of green; not unusual for a sauvignon blanc. I can't get much aroma out of it (possibly because I sort of scorched some panko-crusted tilapia while making dinner and my apartment smells like a bad fish and chip shop). What I do get is green apple, but no cat pee, I'm pleased to report. In the mouth, it's pretty much a classic French sauvignon blanc, which is not at all a bad thing, though it's not something "special." The acid and alcohol in the wine are perfectly in balance, and the wine is pleasantly weighty, making it not a bad white wine to enjoy in winter. My biggest qualm would be a fairly high bitterness quotient. I think that's what got in the way of this wine's pairing with my dinner (once I scraped off the burned part). The tilapia was served with fennel tzatziki, and I think the bitterness of the wine and the bitterness of the yogurt in the sauce really clashed. But all in all, this is a very acceptable wine that I wouldn't hesitate to buy again, or to recommend with dinner, as long as you're not having yogurt....
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Touraine, Loire Valley
Price: $12
My rating: 87/100
Saturday, January 1, 2011
2009 Villa Marchesi Pinot Grigio
I'm really supposed to be "drying out" after a long week of holiday wine consumption. (Thank you to those of you who opened your wine cellars for us - it was delightful! And I'm really nervous now that I know so many of you are reading this....)
Anyway, I'm having pasta for dinner, and I just can't do Italian without wine. It may actually be illegal in Italy (given how convoluted their wine laws are, it wouldn't be surprising). Tonight's wine is a Friulian pinot grigio with a medium-pale gold hue with even a hint of brown. Pinot Grigio grapes are actually quite pink for white wine grapes, so that can happen while the wine is still young. Some even pick up some pink from the skins.
The aromas are intensely fruity, with some delicious honeydew melon and pear, as well as honeysuckle and yeasty notes. Very intriguing! In the mouth, it's a tad flabby. It could use a little more acidity to counteract the slight sweetness and medium-high viscosity. That said, it's very smooth and I think it will pair nicely (because, frankly, it's a little bland) with my pasta.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Grigio
Region: Friuli
Price: $11
My rating: 83/100
Anyway, I'm having pasta for dinner, and I just can't do Italian without wine. It may actually be illegal in Italy (given how convoluted their wine laws are, it wouldn't be surprising). Tonight's wine is a Friulian pinot grigio with a medium-pale gold hue with even a hint of brown. Pinot Grigio grapes are actually quite pink for white wine grapes, so that can happen while the wine is still young. Some even pick up some pink from the skins.
The aromas are intensely fruity, with some delicious honeydew melon and pear, as well as honeysuckle and yeasty notes. Very intriguing! In the mouth, it's a tad flabby. It could use a little more acidity to counteract the slight sweetness and medium-high viscosity. That said, it's very smooth and I think it will pair nicely (because, frankly, it's a little bland) with my pasta.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Grigio
Region: Friuli
Price: $11
My rating: 83/100
Sunday, December 19, 2010
2009 Turtle Creek Sauvignon Blanc
I'm going local with my wine selection tonight. Turtle Creek is a vineyard and winery located in Lincoln, Massachusetts, dedicated to making world class wines from V. vinifera. I.e. not made from grapes native to America, or fruits other than grapes. Not that there is anything (much) wrong with native or hybrid grape wines, or apple, pear, and peach wines, but the owner and winemaker, Kip, has studied long and hard to prove that wines made from European varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc can indeed be grown in New England. And I think he has more or less succeeded (though I must point out that he does also purchase grapes from vineyards in California for blending and also for producing varietals that can't be grown here, like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon - they need warmth that we just don't have).
The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....
In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.
This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100
PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.
The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....
In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.
This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100
PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
2009 Pascal Granger Julienas Crus de Beaujolais
This wine smells like warm blueberries and cream. The universe should provide a choir of angels (or at least oblidge with someone playing Puccini with their windows open) whenever someone pops the cork on a bottle of this beaujolais. Beaujolais can have a bad reputation, often due to the grape popsicle fruitiness of the beaujolais you're likely to find on a supermarket shelf. This wine is the Stradivarius to Georges Dubeouf's plastic ukelele.
OK, perhaps I should taste the wine before I oversell it based on the aromas alone. It's also quite gorgeous in the mouth. Unlike most Beaujolais, I think this wine could actually benefit from another year or two in the bottle. It's quite delicious now, though, with tannins and acidity perfectly in harmony with the red berries, which are luscious, but not at all overpowering. I even get a little prickle on the tongue that could be a hint of pleasant effervescence. This wine is a superstar, and would be perfect - and I'm not just saying this because Thanksgiving is a week from tomorrow - with a big turkey dinner with cranberries and stuffing. Absolutely perfect. 91.
OK, perhaps I should taste the wine before I oversell it based on the aromas alone. It's also quite gorgeous in the mouth. Unlike most Beaujolais, I think this wine could actually benefit from another year or two in the bottle. It's quite delicious now, though, with tannins and acidity perfectly in harmony with the red berries, which are luscious, but not at all overpowering. I even get a little prickle on the tongue that could be a hint of pleasant effervescence. This wine is a superstar, and would be perfect - and I'm not just saying this because Thanksgiving is a week from tomorrow - with a big turkey dinner with cranberries and stuffing. Absolutely perfect. 91.
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
2009 Haut-Marin Cuvée Marine Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne
The name is a mouthful - and I'm hoping the wine will be, too! This is a very inexpensive French white blend of, frankly, some pretty inauspicious grapes. Colombard and Ugni Blanc are much more often found in a jug than a bottle. But I've heard great things about this wine, that it's reminiscent of a sauvignon blanc, so I thought I'd give it a try.
In the glass, the color certainly looks like a sauvignon blanc - bright yellow with a touch of green. The aromas aren't strong, but they are very fresh - like a metal pail full of rainwater, and some tangy lemon, too. There is lemon on the palatte as well, along with very well-balanced acidity an alcohol (not an easy feat in a warm region like southwest France). It's a little hollow on the mid-palatte, and not terribly complex with some bitterness evolving on the finish, but overall it's a delicious wine. And at $10 a bottle, I could easily make this my "house wine," were I a restauranteur. 86.
In the glass, the color certainly looks like a sauvignon blanc - bright yellow with a touch of green. The aromas aren't strong, but they are very fresh - like a metal pail full of rainwater, and some tangy lemon, too. There is lemon on the palatte as well, along with very well-balanced acidity an alcohol (not an easy feat in a warm region like southwest France). It's a little hollow on the mid-palatte, and not terribly complex with some bitterness evolving on the finish, but overall it's a delicious wine. And at $10 a bottle, I could easily make this my "house wine," were I a restauranteur. 86.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
2009 Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
I'm having a really hard time sensing the aromas of this New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Not because it is not aromatic - I can tell that it is - but I'm making a Cobb Salad to go along with it, and all I can smell is bacon. After locking myself in the bathroom, I was able to detect that telltale tropical fruit and green grass aroma that I absolutely love about New Zealand sauvignon blancs. There is mango and tamarind and fresh green tomato. Lovely! The color is classic straw, and very bright to the eye.
I tasted it, and my first thought is..."Mmmm! This is a damn good wine for $9!" Seriously, $9! I think it was on sale, but still. This is a fantastic value. The aromas carry over strongly to the palate. There is some residual sugar, that brings along the sweet green tomato flavor, but it's not at all sweet. The acid is not particularly high or mouth-watering, though it seems mostly in balance with the sweetness and alcohol, and it has a surprisingly long finish, evolving sweetness and tamarind. There is even a bit of spritz on the tongue, maybe due to the screw cap; it's very pleasant. I think the only thing I would say needs some improvement is the acidity; it's just low enough to leave the wine lacking a little structure. 88!
I tasted it, and my first thought is..."Mmmm! This is a damn good wine for $9!" Seriously, $9! I think it was on sale, but still. This is a fantastic value. The aromas carry over strongly to the palate. There is some residual sugar, that brings along the sweet green tomato flavor, but it's not at all sweet. The acid is not particularly high or mouth-watering, though it seems mostly in balance with the sweetness and alcohol, and it has a surprisingly long finish, evolving sweetness and tamarind. There is even a bit of spritz on the tongue, maybe due to the screw cap; it's very pleasant. I think the only thing I would say needs some improvement is the acidity; it's just low enough to leave the wine lacking a little structure. 88!
Sunday, October 31, 2010
2009 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Mendoza Santa Julia Reserva
Recently, I wrote about a malbec from the same producer, Familia Zuccardi, out of Mendoza, Argentina. The wine now in my glass is from a separate product line, Santa Julia. Unfortunately, I don't know what's different about it, except that it costs less, because the website is in Spanish and I can't understand what it says. (My 1/2 a semester of Spanish classes just doesn't cut it.)
The wine has the same vibrant violet hue in the glass; it's young - a 2009 - and it looks it. The aroma isn't as powerful and complex as the Zuccardi I tasted a few weeks ago, though I do get some lovely raspberries, some cocoa and toast. It's also not as impressive in the mouth as the other. It's overly sour and bitter, without the benefit of any delicious, juicy fruits on the palette. Zuccardi definitely saved their good grapes for the other wine. These taste unripe and just not very pleasant. I don't think any more time in the bottle would help it; though it might open up a bit, I think it will remain unbalanced. Eh...81.
The wine has the same vibrant violet hue in the glass; it's young - a 2009 - and it looks it. The aroma isn't as powerful and complex as the Zuccardi I tasted a few weeks ago, though I do get some lovely raspberries, some cocoa and toast. It's also not as impressive in the mouth as the other. It's overly sour and bitter, without the benefit of any delicious, juicy fruits on the palette. Zuccardi definitely saved their good grapes for the other wine. These taste unripe and just not very pleasant. I don't think any more time in the bottle would help it; though it might open up a bit, I think it will remain unbalanced. Eh...81.
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