Saturday, September 17, 2011
Donkey & Goat Isabel's Cuvee Grenache Rosé Mendocino
Kudos to my friend Richard for introducing me to this wine - in fact to the producer in general. What a fun, funky line-up of wines they have, and all made by hand. As in no machinery involved. As in foot-stomping the grapes like Lucille Ball. The first thing you notice about the wine, aside from it's maraschino cherry color, is that there is about a half-inch of sediment in the bottom of the bottle. The wine is aged on its lees - unusual for rosé - and clearly not fined or filtered. This is just about unheard of. And I LOVE it.
The aromas are all framed within the context of this sweet yeastiness. There is fruit, but it's like an angel food cake with strawberries and cherries poured over the top. But the fun really starts in the mouth. There is a hint of spritz - either from the screw cap or made that way intentionally - which, in combination with fresh acidity, makes the wine vibrant on the palate. There is a tiny bit of residual sugar, too. Not enough to make the wine taste sweet, just juicy with cherry and red berry fruits. There's also a little tannin, adding texture to the mouthfeel that is not at all unwelcome.
I honestly cannot find anything about this wine that I don't like. Except the fact that I only have one bottle, and only 4 places in the state carry it.
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mendocino, California
Grape: Grenache
Price: $20
Monday, September 12, 2011
2005 Tenute Sella & Mosca Carignano del Sulcis Terre Rare
Carignan is not a grape with a great reputation. It is a frequent blending agent in the south of France, and in the past has contributed to Europe's "wine lake" issue. However, it has been grown on the Italian Island of Sardinia for a vey long time, and there has its very own DOC, Carignano del Sulcis. Although Italy's DOC system is not without its faults, and some wines that many people feel unworthy have been given DOC and even DOCG status, I live in hope of finding good wines in unexpected places.
The wine is a deep garnet in the glass, with significant browning towards the edges, due to bottle age. It is quite clear, indicating to me that it was fined and filtered before bottling. The aromas aren't robust, but I do get some hints of molasses, prune, and something almost cheesy. Like cheese rind. Not exactly fresh in the nose.....
The palate doesn't tell much of a different story. Maybe it's over the hill and has started to break down, but this is not a tasty wine at all. The first impression I get is a sunburnt fruit flavor that borders on metallic - like a tarnished silver spoon in your mouth. It improves somewhat with acquaintance, with some black pepper and stewed cherries coming out. The acid is good and the tannins are smooth, though the alcohol is a bit high. Unfortunately, through it all, that silver spoon taste remains, hanging on the finish long after the fruit has dissipated. Apparently Carignan can deserve its reputation sometimes....
Thumbs down.
Vintage: 2005
Region: Sardinia, Italy
Grape: Carignan
Price: $16
The wine is a deep garnet in the glass, with significant browning towards the edges, due to bottle age. It is quite clear, indicating to me that it was fined and filtered before bottling. The aromas aren't robust, but I do get some hints of molasses, prune, and something almost cheesy. Like cheese rind. Not exactly fresh in the nose.....
The palate doesn't tell much of a different story. Maybe it's over the hill and has started to break down, but this is not a tasty wine at all. The first impression I get is a sunburnt fruit flavor that borders on metallic - like a tarnished silver spoon in your mouth. It improves somewhat with acquaintance, with some black pepper and stewed cherries coming out. The acid is good and the tannins are smooth, though the alcohol is a bit high. Unfortunately, through it all, that silver spoon taste remains, hanging on the finish long after the fruit has dissipated. Apparently Carignan can deserve its reputation sometimes....
Thumbs down.
Vintage: 2005
Region: Sardinia, Italy
Grape: Carignan
Price: $16
Sunday, August 28, 2011
2006 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Ribera del Duero Pesquera Crianza
Hurricane party! Tropical Storm Irene has been, happily, much less destructive than it may have been, and I am celebrating by hunkering down with my girls, watching Pride & Prejudice and popping the cork on this special bottle that I've been saving for quite some time. Along with Vega Sicilia, Pesquera is one of the most famous and highly-prized wines from Ribera del Duero, a region of Spain largely disregarded until the rise of these two houses.
Although it hails from Ribera del Duero, in which winemakers are allowed to use Cabernet Sauvignon in their wines (unlike Rioja), Pesquera makes its wines with 100% Tempranillo. Also unlike Rioja, Ribera del Duero tends to use French oak for their barrels instead of American oak, leading to more restrained oak presence with less overt dill and vanilla aromas. Crianzas spend at least 12 months in these French oak barrels, and must be aged at least 2 years before release. In the glass, the wine shows it age through its color, dense garnet with some significant orange-brown towards the rim.
The aromas are nutty tend towards vinosity, with but there is still freshness here - red raspberries and juniper, in particular. On the palate there is something almost briny, leading to the edge of freshness. It is reminiscent of the seaside in the sense that this briniess marries with a slightly green element to produce a hint of beach grass or sea breeze (or is that just Irene blowing through my windows?). But there is less ethereal substance here. The raspberries persist, as does the nutty brown butter from the nose. The texture is silky, with tannin, acidity, and alcohol all in delicate balance. The finish is alive with juniper and bright red berry, and lasts minutes.
An impeccably made wine, and this the perfect occasion to enjoy it.
Vintage: 2006
Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain
Grape: Tempranillo (Tinto Fino)
Price: $34
Although it hails from Ribera del Duero, in which winemakers are allowed to use Cabernet Sauvignon in their wines (unlike Rioja), Pesquera makes its wines with 100% Tempranillo. Also unlike Rioja, Ribera del Duero tends to use French oak for their barrels instead of American oak, leading to more restrained oak presence with less overt dill and vanilla aromas. Crianzas spend at least 12 months in these French oak barrels, and must be aged at least 2 years before release. In the glass, the wine shows it age through its color, dense garnet with some significant orange-brown towards the rim.
The aromas are nutty tend towards vinosity, with but there is still freshness here - red raspberries and juniper, in particular. On the palate there is something almost briny, leading to the edge of freshness. It is reminiscent of the seaside in the sense that this briniess marries with a slightly green element to produce a hint of beach grass or sea breeze (or is that just Irene blowing through my windows?). But there is less ethereal substance here. The raspberries persist, as does the nutty brown butter from the nose. The texture is silky, with tannin, acidity, and alcohol all in delicate balance. The finish is alive with juniper and bright red berry, and lasts minutes.
An impeccably made wine, and this the perfect occasion to enjoy it.
Vintage: 2006
Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain
Grape: Tempranillo (Tinto Fino)
Price: $34
Thursday, August 18, 2011
2004 Heron Merlot Vin de Pays d'Oc
I'm being good to my budget, and drinking some cheaper wine. No more $30+ bottles for me for a while. Nothing wrong with a good vin de pays (assuming that this wine is, in fact, good). The density of color is moderate garnet with some significant browning towards the rim. The aromas are muted, though it's possible I just can't smell anything due to the abnormal amount of pollen in the air today. I swear my neighbors have a pollen machine akin to those beasts that spew fake snow all over the slopes in the winter. Anyway, what I do smell is mostly oak- and age-related - dark chocolate, hazelnut, and maybe some dark berry jam.
On the palate, it's a little abrasive, between the reasonably high alcohol, tannin, and acid. They're all pretty well in balance, but they're all quite high. There's not much fruit, and what there is comes across as somewhat dusty. Not a great wine, but it's drinkable, and the finish is quite long and nutty. It'll do.
Vintage: 2004
Grape: Merlot
Region: Languedoc-Roussillon, France
Price: $11
On the palate, it's a little abrasive, between the reasonably high alcohol, tannin, and acid. They're all pretty well in balance, but they're all quite high. There's not much fruit, and what there is comes across as somewhat dusty. Not a great wine, but it's drinkable, and the finish is quite long and nutty. It'll do.
Vintage: 2004
Grape: Merlot
Region: Languedoc-Roussillon, France
Price: $11
Friday, August 5, 2011
2003 Lacoste-Borie Pauillac
I haven't really done anything to earn a nice Bordeaux for tonight. Call it a reward for going to the laundromat two weeks in a row, maybe? Of course, I've used put my entire wine budget for the week, so I'll be paying for this bottle by Tuesday when I have to drink water (the horror...).
The bottle age is certainly showing on the rim of this ruby red wine, with significant browning towards the edges. The wine is not particularly dense in color; it almost looks like a weighty new world Pinot Noir. But in aromas, I wouldn't mistake it (I hope) for anything but a Bordeaux. The nose is earthy, flinty (but not in a struck match kind of way), with more than a hint of sour red cherry and red currant and a bit of barnyard. I also get some new oak aromas, predominantly cocoa and toast.
It's not as big in the mouth than I might have expected from such a landmark year for Bordeaux, but it's certainly an estimable wine, nonetheless. More sour cherry, moderate acid and slightly scratchy tannins, all in balance with the alcohol. There's not bitterness, but I am sensing a faint metallic taste that is detracting a bit from my enjoyment. It disappears on the finish, however, giving way to some serious earthiness - like a forest floor in fall. I'm not kidding! Leaf litter, turned earth, and some sour berries dropped off of plants for good measure. This may not be an appealing description, but it's actually quite enjoyable. Just don't go telling people that I told you to go lick a forest floor. Drink the wine instead.
Vintage: 2003
Region: Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (proportions unknown)
Price: $37
The bottle age is certainly showing on the rim of this ruby red wine, with significant browning towards the edges. The wine is not particularly dense in color; it almost looks like a weighty new world Pinot Noir. But in aromas, I wouldn't mistake it (I hope) for anything but a Bordeaux. The nose is earthy, flinty (but not in a struck match kind of way), with more than a hint of sour red cherry and red currant and a bit of barnyard. I also get some new oak aromas, predominantly cocoa and toast.
It's not as big in the mouth than I might have expected from such a landmark year for Bordeaux, but it's certainly an estimable wine, nonetheless. More sour cherry, moderate acid and slightly scratchy tannins, all in balance with the alcohol. There's not bitterness, but I am sensing a faint metallic taste that is detracting a bit from my enjoyment. It disappears on the finish, however, giving way to some serious earthiness - like a forest floor in fall. I'm not kidding! Leaf litter, turned earth, and some sour berries dropped off of plants for good measure. This may not be an appealing description, but it's actually quite enjoyable. Just don't go telling people that I told you to go lick a forest floor. Drink the wine instead.
Vintage: 2003
Region: Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (proportions unknown)
Price: $37
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
2004 Elderton Shiraz Barossa
Thanks to a cooling thunderstorm this afternoon, I feel comfortable opening up a big Australian shiraz without having to put it in the fridge first....
Since it has some bottle age on it, the wine has some browning towards the edges, as expected, but the core remains dark and dense. Not quite inky, and it has lost any hint of blue tones, but it is an opaque garnet. The nose is heavily marked by oak, coming across as vanilla, clove, and butter and more than a bit of smoke. There is fruit here, too; dark stewed berries, though, not a fresh fruit in sight. (Or in smell, as it were.) No doubt this is a hot-climate wine. I'm hoping the alcohol doesn't cause me to begin breathing fire.
Huh. This wine is so much bigger and denser in the nose than it is on the palate. I mean, it's not a pinot noir, and there is some hefty alcohol to be sure (no evidence of fire-breathing as yet, though), but I do not get the feeling that I am chewing on a 2x4, nor am I bathing in black cherry pie filling. The wine has a nice balance of toast and black currant fruit, plenty of acidity to give it a lift, and some fine, silky tannins for texture. Yes, the alcohol is high, and I'm getting a little tingle in my tummy from it, but it's not nearly as overpowering as it could be. I think this is going to pair very nicely with the (extremely elegant) dinner I have planned - chili on a baked sweet potato. (Hey, it's healthy.)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Barossa, Australia
Grape: Shiraz
Price: $35
Since it has some bottle age on it, the wine has some browning towards the edges, as expected, but the core remains dark and dense. Not quite inky, and it has lost any hint of blue tones, but it is an opaque garnet. The nose is heavily marked by oak, coming across as vanilla, clove, and butter and more than a bit of smoke. There is fruit here, too; dark stewed berries, though, not a fresh fruit in sight. (Or in smell, as it were.) No doubt this is a hot-climate wine. I'm hoping the alcohol doesn't cause me to begin breathing fire.
Huh. This wine is so much bigger and denser in the nose than it is on the palate. I mean, it's not a pinot noir, and there is some hefty alcohol to be sure (no evidence of fire-breathing as yet, though), but I do not get the feeling that I am chewing on a 2x4, nor am I bathing in black cherry pie filling. The wine has a nice balance of toast and black currant fruit, plenty of acidity to give it a lift, and some fine, silky tannins for texture. Yes, the alcohol is high, and I'm getting a little tingle in my tummy from it, but it's not nearly as overpowering as it could be. I think this is going to pair very nicely with the (extremely elegant) dinner I have planned - chili on a baked sweet potato. (Hey, it's healthy.)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Barossa, Australia
Grape: Shiraz
Price: $35
Thursday, July 28, 2011
2007 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
I'm taking a serious risk with this wine. The last Hamilton Russell I tasted, the 2008 Pinot Noir, was categorically the most disgusting wine I have ever enountered. The best description I can come up with is that it tasted like the Michelin Man rolled around in a big pile of trash, then set himself on fire. Nasty! But in general, this firm has a good reputation, so I decided to give them a second chance.
As it has some bottle age on it, I'm not surprised to see that the wine has a fairly deep yellow-gold hue, tending almost to brown. The aromas are also indicative of age, with honey and butter outweighing the white flowers and green apple. There is definitely some oak in the wine; however, there is no sign of a self-immolating Michelin Man, so I am encouraged.
On the palate...it's beautiful. Hamilton Russell has certainly redeemed itself in my mind. The flavors are fresh - not at all oxidized as they could be in a 4 year old Chardonnay - with loads of lemon and green apple and a perfectly balanced touch of oak for creaminess and a hint of bitterness at the back of the mouth. I'm astonished at how youthful this wine tastes. There is no one flavor or element out of place. It's simply delicious.
So the lesson here is simple: if you ever come into contact with a Hamilton Russell wine, avoid the Pinot Noir like the plague it is, and embrace the lovely chardonnay.
Vintage: 2007
Region: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa
Grape: Chardonnay
Price: $26
As it has some bottle age on it, I'm not surprised to see that the wine has a fairly deep yellow-gold hue, tending almost to brown. The aromas are also indicative of age, with honey and butter outweighing the white flowers and green apple. There is definitely some oak in the wine; however, there is no sign of a self-immolating Michelin Man, so I am encouraged.
On the palate...it's beautiful. Hamilton Russell has certainly redeemed itself in my mind. The flavors are fresh - not at all oxidized as they could be in a 4 year old Chardonnay - with loads of lemon and green apple and a perfectly balanced touch of oak for creaminess and a hint of bitterness at the back of the mouth. I'm astonished at how youthful this wine tastes. There is no one flavor or element out of place. It's simply delicious.
So the lesson here is simple: if you ever come into contact with a Hamilton Russell wine, avoid the Pinot Noir like the plague it is, and embrace the lovely chardonnay.
Vintage: 2007
Region: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa
Grape: Chardonnay
Price: $26
Friday, July 22, 2011
2008 Mauritson Syrah Rockpile Madrone Spring Vineyard
It's entirely possible that I bought this bottle of wine because it is from Rockpile. What a fantastic name for a wine appellation! Is it evocative of what it really looks like? Don't know, never been there. But I did buy the wine at the Mauritson flagship vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. (I'm really raiding my Sonoma stash these days!)
The wine is inky violet in the glass, deep enough to be called opaque. The aromas are dominated by oak, manifesting as vanilla and milk chocolate. I'm not getting much fruit beyond blueberry pie. Not that I'm complaining. In the mouth, there's a lot more fruit - stewed blackberry, more blueberry, and sweetened black currants. And there's a lot of oak, but in balance with the fruit, the acidity, and the slightly scratchy tannins. The only thing out of whack here is the alcohol (I sense a pattern here amongst the recent California wines I've tasted - shocking). It's got to be at least 14.5% pecent. I've had ports that burned my lips less. But, just like doing squats and lunges hurts like hell, it's a good kind of hurt. I really like this wine.
Vintage: 2008
Region: Rockpile, Sonoma
Grape: Syrah
Price: $38
The wine is inky violet in the glass, deep enough to be called opaque. The aromas are dominated by oak, manifesting as vanilla and milk chocolate. I'm not getting much fruit beyond blueberry pie. Not that I'm complaining. In the mouth, there's a lot more fruit - stewed blackberry, more blueberry, and sweetened black currants. And there's a lot of oak, but in balance with the fruit, the acidity, and the slightly scratchy tannins. The only thing out of whack here is the alcohol (I sense a pattern here amongst the recent California wines I've tasted - shocking). It's got to be at least 14.5% pecent. I've had ports that burned my lips less. But, just like doing squats and lunges hurts like hell, it's a good kind of hurt. I really like this wine.
Vintage: 2008
Region: Rockpile, Sonoma
Grape: Syrah
Price: $38
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
2008 Ten Acre Pinot Noir DuNah Vineyard
On this momentous day - the one on which I officially enter the wine trade as a career - I am opening a bottle of wine that is very special to me. I picked it up during Sonoma's barrel tasting even earlier this year, while traveling from vineyard to vineyard with two of my favorite wine aficionados, Vanessa and Brian. This Pinot Noir is a new endeavor for the owners of Bella Vineyards; in 2008 they produced the first bottles of wine from the 10 acres of property around their home, where they planned to produce small lots of high quality wine in a Burgundian style.
The wine certainly carries aromas common in Burgundian wines. While he later recanted, or at least qualified it, Anthony Hanson once wote that "Good Burgundy smells of shit." I wouldn't go so far as to say this wine smells like shit, it certainly has an air of the barnyard about it. In a good way, of course. It also smells of ripe rasperries, cola, and cinnamon.
In the mouth, I immediately remember why I bought this wine (and am wishing I had bought more). It is impeccably balanced (aside from the elevated alcohol level, which is pretty much par for the course in California wines these days). There is a hint of residual sugar, expressed as ripe black cherries, the tannins are smooth as silk, and the finish is delightfully long and juicy. There isn't much of this wine out there, but I highly recommend you seek some out!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Price: $38
The wine certainly carries aromas common in Burgundian wines. While he later recanted, or at least qualified it, Anthony Hanson once wote that "Good Burgundy smells of shit." I wouldn't go so far as to say this wine smells like shit, it certainly has an air of the barnyard about it. In a good way, of course. It also smells of ripe rasperries, cola, and cinnamon.
In the mouth, I immediately remember why I bought this wine (and am wishing I had bought more). It is impeccably balanced (aside from the elevated alcohol level, which is pretty much par for the course in California wines these days). There is a hint of residual sugar, expressed as ripe black cherries, the tannins are smooth as silk, and the finish is delightfully long and juicy. There isn't much of this wine out there, but I highly recommend you seek some out!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Price: $38
Thursday, July 14, 2011
2005 Blason-d'Issan Margaux
Tonight's wine is a splurge. (That's such a gross word, isn't it?) It's Bastille Day, and I'm opening up a bottle of French wine that I full expect to knock my chausettes off. I haven't been tasting much Bordeaux since I returned from France nearly a month ago, because I tasted so much good wine there, that I was afraid I might be disappointed that I doesn't taste as good in America. You know, the ambience and all. But then I realized that was stupid. So here goes.
Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.
The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....
I want to dive into the glass.
But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)
Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43
Blason d'Issan is the second wine of Chateau d'Issan, third growth Bordeaux in the Margaux appellation. I wouldn't touch a bottle of the first wine from the 2005 vintage for quite some time, but since the second wines of the great chateaux tend to be made with the slightly lower quality grapes and with less use of new oak barrels, they're ready to drink earlier, on average. So I think we're ok.
The wine is an inky garnet in the glass, with some orange-brick coloration at the rim. The aromas are gorgeous - just the right amount of earthiness and fruit that I expect from a Bordeaux - and incredibly complex. Red cherry, slate, licorice, dark chocolate, red currant, pencil shavings (yes, I said it! Pencil shavings! What a cliché!)....
I want to dive into the glass.
But instead, I take a sip. Still gorgeous. I actually think I could have let this one age a couple more years, as the tannins are still a bit firm, but they're not wooly and they don't overpower the ripe red fruits or the freshly turned earth flavors that just keep going and going, long after the mouthful is swallowed. The length is phenomenally long and lucious. My only minor criticism is that the alcohol is just a touch high; 2005 was a very warm year for Bordeaux, leading to higher sugar content and consequently higher alcohol, so it's not totally unexpected. It's just not entirely integrated. But it does not detract at all from my enjoyment of this wine. I hope to enjoy it again very soon. (Hint hint.)
Vintage: 2005
Grapes: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Price: $43
Sunday, July 10, 2011
2009 Ballast Stone Unwooded Chardonnay South Australia Steeple Jack
I love it the term "unwooded" is used to describe a wine that has not been fermented or aged in oak barrels, but rather in stainless stell. It just sounds so...Australian. And indeed, this unwooded wine does hail from South Australia, a preposterously large appellation that produces more than half of all Australia's yearly output of wine. To be sure, there's a lot of bulk wine to wade through, but some great wines are produced here as well.
The unoaked chardonnay is a medium-deep yellow with hints of gold. The aromas are undemonstrative, as is common in chardonnay, but there is some nice lemon and green apple, but also a chalky minerality. The wine isn't as acidic as it smells, but is in fact quite well-balanced in its elements. The alcohol may be a bit high, but not enough so to overpower the acidity (Certainly nowhere approaching the 15.1% California chardonnay I ran into today!), and it gives the wine a delicious weight and viscosity on the palate. There's plenty of fruit there, too: lemon zest, granny smith apple, and honedew melon. Yummy.
The Steeple Jack wines are some of Ballast Stone's more economical lines of wine, but the low price tag certainly doesn't mean low quality. I'll certainly keep an eye out for their other varietals in this line.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: South Australia
Price: $10
The unoaked chardonnay is a medium-deep yellow with hints of gold. The aromas are undemonstrative, as is common in chardonnay, but there is some nice lemon and green apple, but also a chalky minerality. The wine isn't as acidic as it smells, but is in fact quite well-balanced in its elements. The alcohol may be a bit high, but not enough so to overpower the acidity (Certainly nowhere approaching the 15.1% California chardonnay I ran into today!), and it gives the wine a delicious weight and viscosity on the palate. There's plenty of fruit there, too: lemon zest, granny smith apple, and honedew melon. Yummy.
The Steeple Jack wines are some of Ballast Stone's more economical lines of wine, but the low price tag certainly doesn't mean low quality. I'll certainly keep an eye out for their other varietals in this line.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: South Australia
Price: $10
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
2010 Charles & Charles Rosé Columbia Valley
It's 4 bzillion degrees out, I have no air conditioning, and I hereby proclaim it officially rosé weather. I will be drinking nothing else (including water) until the temperature goes below 85 degrees. This could be dangerous, but luckily for me, I won't care.
This Washington state rosé is made from 100% syrah, which is pretty much a recipe for happiness for me. The color is a fairly deep pink with hints of copper, though not nearly as deep as some Southern Rhone syrah rosés I've seen. You couldn't mistake this one for a pinot noir, let's put it that way. The aromas are heavenly, which is good because I spent a lot of time inhaling its aromas while mopping a glass of it off the floor. The Kong got away from the dog and disaster ensued. But now my glass is refilled, and I'm ready to see if these honeydew, lilac, and raspberry perfumes carry over to the palate.
Oh, yes. Raspberries and cream on the palate, with the floral aromas carrying through the finish. The texture is smooth, with just a whisper of tannin. The alcohol and acidity are balanced and in control. The only somewhat unpleasant element is a growing bitterness on the finish, that threatens to overpower the fruit. But all in all, a great wine to sip when the temperature outside - or inside, in my case - is unbearable. It'll cool you off, and you'll enjoy the process.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Syrah
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington State
Price: $13
This Washington state rosé is made from 100% syrah, which is pretty much a recipe for happiness for me. The color is a fairly deep pink with hints of copper, though not nearly as deep as some Southern Rhone syrah rosés I've seen. You couldn't mistake this one for a pinot noir, let's put it that way. The aromas are heavenly, which is good because I spent a lot of time inhaling its aromas while mopping a glass of it off the floor. The Kong got away from the dog and disaster ensued. But now my glass is refilled, and I'm ready to see if these honeydew, lilac, and raspberry perfumes carry over to the palate.
Oh, yes. Raspberries and cream on the palate, with the floral aromas carrying through the finish. The texture is smooth, with just a whisper of tannin. The alcohol and acidity are balanced and in control. The only somewhat unpleasant element is a growing bitterness on the finish, that threatens to overpower the fruit. But all in all, a great wine to sip when the temperature outside - or inside, in my case - is unbearable. It'll cool you off, and you'll enjoy the process.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Syrah
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington State
Price: $13
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
2008 Egervin Egri Bikavér Bull's Blood
Yes, you read correctly. Bull's Blood. And just for extra fun, I'll tell you up front that it's from Hungary. So, yes, I am drinking a Hungarian wine called Bull's Blood. What of it?
Actually, it's quite an ancient wine. Legend has it that the name originates from the 16th Century when the Turks laid siege to the town of Eger in Hungary. The inhabitants of Eger are said to have put up unexpected resistance, to the point that the Turks eventually gave up their siege. Rumors abounded that the reasons for the locals' strength was that they mixed the blood of bulls into their red wine. And the name stuck.
The grapes used to make it are many, and mostly unpronounceable. Traditionally the main grape was kadarka, although it is notoriously difficult to grow and is therefore in decline in Hungarian vineyards, being replaced by other varieties such as kekfrankos and portugieser, also ingredients in Bull's Blood (along with 7 other possible varieties).
The color does not particularly look like blood - bull's or otherwise - it's a medium ruby with violet towards the rim. Nor does it smell like blood (happily), but strongly of black pepper, fallen leaves, and dark fruits, like ripe plum. Not a fresh-smelling wine, but actually quite appealing.
On the palate, it's a little thin in flavor and...well, weird in texture. The acid is high enough - perhaps a little too high - that the wine is not flabby, but it has a rather strange mouth-coating property that I can't quite explain. It doesn't appear to be due to high alcohol or sugar content, the two usual suspects. There are some pleasant pepper and plum notes, but all in all it's hollow midpalate in terms of concentration of flavor, and there's a lack of freshness that almost tastes like the old oak barrel the wine was probably matured in.
Not a wine I would drink every night, but passable for $9 and not an unworthy companion for the cheeseburger I'm about to eat for dinner. But I wouldn't waste a nice steak on it.
Vintage: 2008
Grapes: Kadarka, etc.
Region: Egri, Hungary
Price: $9
Actually, it's quite an ancient wine. Legend has it that the name originates from the 16th Century when the Turks laid siege to the town of Eger in Hungary. The inhabitants of Eger are said to have put up unexpected resistance, to the point that the Turks eventually gave up their siege. Rumors abounded that the reasons for the locals' strength was that they mixed the blood of bulls into their red wine. And the name stuck.
The grapes used to make it are many, and mostly unpronounceable. Traditionally the main grape was kadarka, although it is notoriously difficult to grow and is therefore in decline in Hungarian vineyards, being replaced by other varieties such as kekfrankos and portugieser, also ingredients in Bull's Blood (along with 7 other possible varieties).
The color does not particularly look like blood - bull's or otherwise - it's a medium ruby with violet towards the rim. Nor does it smell like blood (happily), but strongly of black pepper, fallen leaves, and dark fruits, like ripe plum. Not a fresh-smelling wine, but actually quite appealing.
On the palate, it's a little thin in flavor and...well, weird in texture. The acid is high enough - perhaps a little too high - that the wine is not flabby, but it has a rather strange mouth-coating property that I can't quite explain. It doesn't appear to be due to high alcohol or sugar content, the two usual suspects. There are some pleasant pepper and plum notes, but all in all it's hollow midpalate in terms of concentration of flavor, and there's a lack of freshness that almost tastes like the old oak barrel the wine was probably matured in.
Not a wine I would drink every night, but passable for $9 and not an unworthy companion for the cheeseburger I'm about to eat for dinner. But I wouldn't waste a nice steak on it.
Vintage: 2008
Grapes: Kadarka, etc.
Region: Egri, Hungary
Price: $9
Friday, May 27, 2011
2009 S.A. Prum Riesling QbA Mosel Essence
I almost didn't buy this wine. I have an aversion to wines from non-English-speaking countries that use English words in their names. The ostentatious "Essence" written upside the bottle nearly turned me off. It's too much like "Relax" riesling from Germany or, god forbid, "Blue Ridge" which you'd think would come from somewhere in the Appalachian mountains, but actually comes from Bulgaria.
But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.
The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).
It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.
All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14
But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.
The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).
It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.
All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Bordeaux
Look at me, posting twice in one week. Today we have a Bordeaux, but I'm pretty sure it's made in a more modern, international style than a traditional Bordeaux. I base this on two things - I have read that this wine will peak in 2011-2012, which is a very short time for a Bordeaux; and it has 14.5% ABV. If I could whistle, I would be doing so now. Granted 2009 was a warm year in Bordeaux, so higher sugar (and hence alcohol) levels are to be expected, but 14.5% is still more indicative of California than France.
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.
On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17
Monday, May 23, 2011
2007 Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec Luján de Cuyo Reserva
It has been an extremely long time since I posted. I was in the midst of finishing up a course in the international wine trade and, frankly, was completely burned out on thinking about wine. Not drinking it, mind you, just thinking about it. But I've had a couple of weeks to recuperate, and I think I'm ready to give it a go.
I have such fond memories of Luigi Bosca malbec. Years ago, when my dad was traveling to South America for work, he came back raving about the wine. At the time, it was extremely hard - even impossible - to find the wine in the US. Then about 4 years ago, my parents and I went to Argentina and immersed ourselves (almost literally) in the country's wine. Aside from a nice bottle of Tikal and some wine of unknown variety or provenance that came out of a big plastic jug at a street market, the Luigi Bosca was some of the best we had. Happily, it's now widely available in the US - I even managed to find this bottle on sale!
I've been saving this bottle for a special occasion, but for some reason I've decided to open it. Part of it is that I have a ridiculous number of wines that I've been saving for a special occasion, and...I don't have any special occasions (or, more specifically, anyone to share the wines with on special occasions). I'm also opening it now because Argentinian malbecs aren't really noted for their longevity and I don't want this wine to turn the corner before I decide to open it up. And, finally, it's the 10th in what is expected to be a 12-day-long rainy spell and I'm trying to transport myself to sunnier places. Given that Mendoza gets only about 22 cm of rain (about 8 1/2 inches) a year, I think it qualifies.
The wine is the expected inky color, though it has lost some of its youthful blue hues. It's more of a garnet with just a hint of violet at the rim. The aromas are deep and almost earthy. There's a butteriness from oak, but only in the backrgound. The primary aromas are ripe red berries and forest floor, and something briary as well.
It's a touch buttery on the palate as well, but not overwhelmingly. This malbec suffers from none of the overt jammy fruits or overpowering alcohol of a number of malbecs, but is a lovely balance of fruit, tannin, acid, and heat. The finish is long and juicy. Words cannot express how badly I want a big slab of Argentinian beef at this moment. Alas, my dinner consists of a green salad with a poached egg and sweet potato. Dinner and wine are not in agreement. So I'll just finish the wine first.
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Malbec
Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $16
I have such fond memories of Luigi Bosca malbec. Years ago, when my dad was traveling to South America for work, he came back raving about the wine. At the time, it was extremely hard - even impossible - to find the wine in the US. Then about 4 years ago, my parents and I went to Argentina and immersed ourselves (almost literally) in the country's wine. Aside from a nice bottle of Tikal and some wine of unknown variety or provenance that came out of a big plastic jug at a street market, the Luigi Bosca was some of the best we had. Happily, it's now widely available in the US - I even managed to find this bottle on sale!
I've been saving this bottle for a special occasion, but for some reason I've decided to open it. Part of it is that I have a ridiculous number of wines that I've been saving for a special occasion, and...I don't have any special occasions (or, more specifically, anyone to share the wines with on special occasions). I'm also opening it now because Argentinian malbecs aren't really noted for their longevity and I don't want this wine to turn the corner before I decide to open it up. And, finally, it's the 10th in what is expected to be a 12-day-long rainy spell and I'm trying to transport myself to sunnier places. Given that Mendoza gets only about 22 cm of rain (about 8 1/2 inches) a year, I think it qualifies.
The wine is the expected inky color, though it has lost some of its youthful blue hues. It's more of a garnet with just a hint of violet at the rim. The aromas are deep and almost earthy. There's a butteriness from oak, but only in the backrgound. The primary aromas are ripe red berries and forest floor, and something briary as well.
It's a touch buttery on the palate as well, but not overwhelmingly. This malbec suffers from none of the overt jammy fruits or overpowering alcohol of a number of malbecs, but is a lovely balance of fruit, tannin, acid, and heat. The finish is long and juicy. Words cannot express how badly I want a big slab of Argentinian beef at this moment. Alas, my dinner consists of a green salad with a poached egg and sweet potato. Dinner and wine are not in agreement. So I'll just finish the wine first.
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Malbec
Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $16
Sunday, April 3, 2011
2009 Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé
I hereby proclaim it officially Spring! Yes, it snowed only 2 days ago, and there is still some of the nefarious white stuff on the ground, but the sun was warm today and I'm breaking out the rosé. This was my rosé of choice last summer - it's inexpensive, delicious, and ubiquitous. There were 10,000 cases imported into the United States, so chances are you can find it just about anywhere.
Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.
The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10
Something like 80% of the wine made in the Côtes de Provence are rosé; something about the climate and the cuisine in Provence demand this sort of refreshing, food-friendly wine. A variety of grapes are allowed for rosé blends in this region; in this bottle we have a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. It makes for a delightful, light copper-salmon color in the glass, and aromas of fresh strawberries, orange blossom, green apple, and green grass waft from the glass. It smells like last summer.
The flavors on the palate are fresh and vibrant, and absolutely summery. Strawberry predominates, but I also get some orange rind and more green apple. The acid is there, and a hint of tannin. My only complaint is a fairly high level of bitterness, which I don't remember being a feature of this wine last time I tasted it. But paired with some food, it takes the edge off and makes for a tasty, fresh wine. Welcome back, Spring!
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Côtes de Provence, France
Price: $10
Friday, April 1, 2011
2006 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin 28 Kalimna
This was one of the first wines I bought when I first starting "collecting" wines (I'm not really a collector - I tend to have between 14-17 bottles at any given time - but there are some I'm holding onto so perhaps I qualify as a collector-in-training?). I'm not sure what has moved me to open it tonight, as I have nothing momentous to celebrate, except for the fact that I have a day off tomorrow. A rare and much appreciated occurrence.
Penfolds is the producer responsible for Australia's most expensive wine, Grange. This bottle is from a significantly lower echelon, made from grapes sourced from different areas in Australia, but I expect it will still be a nice wine to sip for the evening. It's a Shiraz, so it's possible it could be a really big wine, but I don't have to go anywhere so the 300% ABV won't be a problem.
It's dense and dark in the glass; not inky purple, but a deep, deep garnet. It's so dark I can't tell if the wine is clear or cloudy, though I feel like I see a hint of turbidity. While the color of the wine is no trifle, the aromas are surprisingly delicate. There's fresh mint, wet stone, blackberries, and a hint of toasty oak. Very attractive. Interestingly, I don't get any of the black pepper and smoky, roasted meats that I often associate with a shiraz or syrah.
In the mouth - this is 100% not the wine I expected it to be. I think I might let it sit and open up a bit more before drinking it, because it's surprisingly muted and tight right now. Aside from the alcohol (which is appreciable), I am not getting much flavor or texture at all, aside from a lingering impression of black olives and anise. The acid levels appear correct, and the bitterness is in proportion to the tannins such as I can sense them. But right now, then wine is just very thin. I will report back in about an hour.
______________________________________
So, here we are over 2 hours later, and the wine has opened up only moderately. I have to say, this is probably the most restrained Australian shiraz I have ever tasted. Some smoke did evolve on the nose, and the palate is a hint juicier and the tannins are more apparent, but by far the most prominent element is still the alcohol. All in all, I actually quite like the elegance of this wine; if the alcohol were about 1-1/5% less, it would be a real winner.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Shiraz
Region: Australia
Price: $26
Penfolds is the producer responsible for Australia's most expensive wine, Grange. This bottle is from a significantly lower echelon, made from grapes sourced from different areas in Australia, but I expect it will still be a nice wine to sip for the evening. It's a Shiraz, so it's possible it could be a really big wine, but I don't have to go anywhere so the 300% ABV won't be a problem.
It's dense and dark in the glass; not inky purple, but a deep, deep garnet. It's so dark I can't tell if the wine is clear or cloudy, though I feel like I see a hint of turbidity. While the color of the wine is no trifle, the aromas are surprisingly delicate. There's fresh mint, wet stone, blackberries, and a hint of toasty oak. Very attractive. Interestingly, I don't get any of the black pepper and smoky, roasted meats that I often associate with a shiraz or syrah.
In the mouth - this is 100% not the wine I expected it to be. I think I might let it sit and open up a bit more before drinking it, because it's surprisingly muted and tight right now. Aside from the alcohol (which is appreciable), I am not getting much flavor or texture at all, aside from a lingering impression of black olives and anise. The acid levels appear correct, and the bitterness is in proportion to the tannins such as I can sense them. But right now, then wine is just very thin. I will report back in about an hour.
______________________________________
So, here we are over 2 hours later, and the wine has opened up only moderately. I have to say, this is probably the most restrained Australian shiraz I have ever tasted. Some smoke did evolve on the nose, and the palate is a hint juicier and the tannins are more apparent, but by far the most prominent element is still the alcohol. All in all, I actually quite like the elegance of this wine; if the alcohol were about 1-1/5% less, it would be a real winner.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Shiraz
Region: Australia
Price: $26
Monday, March 28, 2011
2008 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles
The last California Cab I tasted left me with kind of a bad taste in my mouth. So I decided to try another to see if I can wash it away. Justin is a widely-distributed brand - I got this bottle at Trader Joe's - and I've been told nothing can beat it when paired with a nice juicy steak. While I am a little suspicious of this claim (and I'm not eating any steak), I thought I'd give it a whirl.
The aromas are a hint more refined than the last Cab; I get some spicy herbs - dill, maybe - and some toasty cedar along with classic oaky vanilla, black plums, and black currants. The palate, however, is light years ahead of the Sean Minor. It definitely has some serious alcohol (you could probably use this as mouthwash - and very tasty mouthwash it would be), but enough acid to match it, juicy fruits but not overripe and not overpowered by the oak. I can certainly see pairing this with a juicy grilled steak (can you believe I was a vegetarian for 10 years? I can't...), and it's also quite nice with the penne pasta, broccoli rabe, and Italian sausage that's on my dinner plate.
My only "suggestions" for the winemakers (should I be so bold) would be - a little more tannin (it's there, and it's soft, but it's not an equal ingredient with the sourness and heat) and a little less alcohol. I wouldn't be surprised if this wine had an ABV of over 15%. Ouch. Other than that - nom!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Paso Robles, California
Price: $21
The aromas are a hint more refined than the last Cab; I get some spicy herbs - dill, maybe - and some toasty cedar along with classic oaky vanilla, black plums, and black currants. The palate, however, is light years ahead of the Sean Minor. It definitely has some serious alcohol (you could probably use this as mouthwash - and very tasty mouthwash it would be), but enough acid to match it, juicy fruits but not overripe and not overpowered by the oak. I can certainly see pairing this with a juicy grilled steak (can you believe I was a vegetarian for 10 years? I can't...), and it's also quite nice with the penne pasta, broccoli rabe, and Italian sausage that's on my dinner plate.
My only "suggestions" for the winemakers (should I be so bold) would be - a little more tannin (it's there, and it's soft, but it's not an equal ingredient with the sourness and heat) and a little less alcohol. I wouldn't be surprised if this wine had an ABV of over 15%. Ouch. Other than that - nom!
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Paso Robles, California
Price: $21
Saturday, March 26, 2011
2007 Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
I'm not entirely sure why I bought this wine, because generally when I see it in a store, I am not inspired. It must have been on sale. In any case, I'm expecting a rather average California Cab with a lot of fruit and alcohol, and maybe not much else. But we shall see.
It looks and smells like a California Cab - deep ruby in color and aromas of black currant, green pepper, and a bit of green tomato leaf as well. It doesn't smell too overly ripe, though I definitely get a lot of ripe fruit on the palate, and a moderate lack of acidity that would indicate a good deal of hang time for the grapes. There are some tannins, which are soft and ripe, and the wine isn't a complete fruit bomb. But it does lack some elegance and complexity. I'm getting sweet currants, toasty oak, and lots and lots of alcholol burn. The finish is fruity and fairly short.
While not a badly made wine at all, I'd classify this as very typical, middle-of-the-road California Cabernet Sauvignon. I'm still not inspired.
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: North Coast, California
Price: $18
It looks and smells like a California Cab - deep ruby in color and aromas of black currant, green pepper, and a bit of green tomato leaf as well. It doesn't smell too overly ripe, though I definitely get a lot of ripe fruit on the palate, and a moderate lack of acidity that would indicate a good deal of hang time for the grapes. There are some tannins, which are soft and ripe, and the wine isn't a complete fruit bomb. But it does lack some elegance and complexity. I'm getting sweet currants, toasty oak, and lots and lots of alcholol burn. The finish is fruity and fairly short.
While not a badly made wine at all, I'd classify this as very typical, middle-of-the-road California Cabernet Sauvignon. I'm still not inspired.
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: North Coast, California
Price: $18
Sunday, March 20, 2011
2009 4 Bears Pinot Noir Carneros Sean Minor
I'm back from a lovely sojourn to northern California, during which I bought (and consumed) some very lovely wines in Sonoma County. This isn't one of them. Not that it isn't a lovely wine, it's just not one I bought or consumed on my trip. Anyway....
It's a medium-pale ruby in the glass, not dense but quite brilliant. It smells of ripe black cherries (too ripe, maybe?), tons of oak, and a hint of something minerally - like a bucket of rainwater. This is not a delicate pinot noir. I do tend to think of New World Pinots, especially those from California, as being less delicate than, say, a Burgundy, but I actually tasted a few out in Sonoma that had an almost elusive balance between fruit and spice; not austere, but merely delicate and nuanced. For example, the yet-to-be-released 2009 Pech Merle and the 2008 Ten Acre DuNah Vineyard from Bella. If these wines are graceful wild horses, then Sean Minor is a clydesdale.
On the palate, the alcohol hits me first ( robust 14.5%), followed by a dense black, stewed fruits with a bitter edge. The acidity and tannins are there, but are vastly outshadowed by the heat and sweet fruits. It's not undrinkable by any means, but is drastically out of balance. That said, the finish is long and pleasantly juicy. I can see drinking this with something salty and sweet, like turkey and cranberries or pork chops and apricots.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Carneros, Napa Valley
Price: $20
It's a medium-pale ruby in the glass, not dense but quite brilliant. It smells of ripe black cherries (too ripe, maybe?), tons of oak, and a hint of something minerally - like a bucket of rainwater. This is not a delicate pinot noir. I do tend to think of New World Pinots, especially those from California, as being less delicate than, say, a Burgundy, but I actually tasted a few out in Sonoma that had an almost elusive balance between fruit and spice; not austere, but merely delicate and nuanced. For example, the yet-to-be-released 2009 Pech Merle and the 2008 Ten Acre DuNah Vineyard from Bella. If these wines are graceful wild horses, then Sean Minor is a clydesdale.
On the palate, the alcohol hits me first ( robust 14.5%), followed by a dense black, stewed fruits with a bitter edge. The acidity and tannins are there, but are vastly outshadowed by the heat and sweet fruits. It's not undrinkable by any means, but is drastically out of balance. That said, the finish is long and pleasantly juicy. I can see drinking this with something salty and sweet, like turkey and cranberries or pork chops and apricots.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Carneros, Napa Valley
Price: $20
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
2007 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace
I have to admit to being a little apprehensive about this wine. As you know if you read my second to last post, I am somewhat of a slave to the gewurztraminer. I love it, and even if it's not a very highly credentialed one, I'll likely drink it with pleasure. My concern has to do with the Trimbach part. Trimbach has a widely-known and respected name, but I've witnessed some substantial variation between vintages and between bottles in his wines. I've really enjoyed his rieslings in the past, but the last pinot gris I tasted put me in mind of a shiitake and radish-scented candle. Why someone would create such a candle, I don't know - and I don't know why one would make a wine that tasted like that either.
The wine is a medium-deep yellow-gold gold in the glass and is ripe with stone fruits - yellow plums and apricots - and spicy nutmeg. Alas, no lychees, but I'll live. When I first pulled the cork, I got a hint of a chemically smell that could have been volatile acidity, but it has since blown off, and the aromas are sweet and lush.
In the mouth, it's quite elegant. There is a hint of sweetness, though it's all but cancelled out by the bracing acidity. The flavors pick up the ripe fruits of the aromas, evolving into a spicy, almost green finish resminiscent of scallions. It's a bit bitter on the palate, and the acidity does dominate the senses, but all in all it's a nice drinking wine that is making me yearn for a sweet onion tart. Oddly enough. They do say that Alsatian wines pair well with onions, so maybe I'm onto something!
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Gewurztraminer
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $18
The wine is a medium-deep yellow-gold gold in the glass and is ripe with stone fruits - yellow plums and apricots - and spicy nutmeg. Alas, no lychees, but I'll live. When I first pulled the cork, I got a hint of a chemically smell that could have been volatile acidity, but it has since blown off, and the aromas are sweet and lush.
In the mouth, it's quite elegant. There is a hint of sweetness, though it's all but cancelled out by the bracing acidity. The flavors pick up the ripe fruits of the aromas, evolving into a spicy, almost green finish resminiscent of scallions. It's a bit bitter on the palate, and the acidity does dominate the senses, but all in all it's a nice drinking wine that is making me yearn for a sweet onion tart. Oddly enough. They do say that Alsatian wines pair well with onions, so maybe I'm onto something!
Vintage: 2007
Grape: Gewurztraminer
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $18
Sunday, March 6, 2011
2009 Schild GMS Barossa
First, to clarify, "GMS" stands for Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz," a blend of grapes that is fairly popular in Australia (and to some degree in South Africa). Of course, you see it in sourthern France as well, where it presumably originated, though it isn't Shiraz in France, but Syrah. Same grape, different name.
The wine is a bright ruby in the glass - I'd guess that Grenache composes the greatest percentage of the blend given the color. There's a good deal of characteristically Grenache and Shiras black pepperiness and smoke, in the nose, which I always love, some charred oak (but not too much), some barnyard, and some red chili spice. Unfortunately the fruits on the nose are dark and dense, like stewed prunes or raisins. I suspect they waited a bit too long to harvest these grapes in the hot, sunny Barossa Valley.
My suspicions are supported by the way the wine performs on the palate. The first sensation is one of overwhelming heat. The alcohol burn is intense, even with a hint of residual sugar in the wine (i.e. not all of it was fermented and ended up as alcohol, meaning there had to be a lot of sugar to begin with). The wine is surprisingly acidic, though, making me think the winemakers may have "adjusted" the level of acid. This sort of monkeying is hard to hide; added acid rarely integrates seemlessly into a wine.
Criticisms aside, the fruits are still present in the mouth, albeit overripe tasting, and linger on forever - this wine has one of the longest finishes I've ever experienced. It's not an elegant wine - more a bull than a ballerina - but it's acceptable for what it is. Even bulls have their place in the wine world. Just drink it with a pepper steak and not a filet of salmon.
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Price: $18
NB I tasted a "GMS" blend from d'Arenberg the other day that cost half as much as this one, and was twice the quality in terms of winemaking prowess. Go for the Stump Jump instead!
The wine is a bright ruby in the glass - I'd guess that Grenache composes the greatest percentage of the blend given the color. There's a good deal of characteristically Grenache and Shiras black pepperiness and smoke, in the nose, which I always love, some charred oak (but not too much), some barnyard, and some red chili spice. Unfortunately the fruits on the nose are dark and dense, like stewed prunes or raisins. I suspect they waited a bit too long to harvest these grapes in the hot, sunny Barossa Valley.
My suspicions are supported by the way the wine performs on the palate. The first sensation is one of overwhelming heat. The alcohol burn is intense, even with a hint of residual sugar in the wine (i.e. not all of it was fermented and ended up as alcohol, meaning there had to be a lot of sugar to begin with). The wine is surprisingly acidic, though, making me think the winemakers may have "adjusted" the level of acid. This sort of monkeying is hard to hide; added acid rarely integrates seemlessly into a wine.
Criticisms aside, the fruits are still present in the mouth, albeit overripe tasting, and linger on forever - this wine has one of the longest finishes I've ever experienced. It's not an elegant wine - more a bull than a ballerina - but it's acceptable for what it is. Even bulls have their place in the wine world. Just drink it with a pepper steak and not a filet of salmon.
Vintage: 2009
Grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Price: $18
NB I tasted a "GMS" blend from d'Arenberg the other day that cost half as much as this one, and was twice the quality in terms of winemaking prowess. Go for the Stump Jump instead!
Monday, February 28, 2011
2009 Columbia Crest Gewürztraminer Washington Two Vines
Most people would probably look at me as though I had just sprouted a third head if I said, "I've really been craving a gewürztraminer lately." But I'm confident that most people reading this will know what I'm talking about and realize it is not an unusual eastern European sausage variety. I love gewürztraminer's rich fruity flavors and aromas, and I love the touch of sweetness that you get in the best of them. This, I have to say, is probably not the best of them. It was the only one they had at Trader Joe's and I was desperate. But I'm willing to give it the benefit of the doubt.
I can tell by looking at it that it has some sweetness to it. Sugar and alcohol can both make a wine viscous, and I'm willing to bet this wine isn't too high in alcohol. Because of their inherent high sugar content, gewürztraminer grapes can make high alcohol wines if fermented dry, so I suppose it could go either way. But my vote is for sweet.
The wine is strangely unaromatic for a gewürztraminer. I've read that gewürztraminer grapes and lychees share some aromatic compounds, hence the signature lychee aroma you often get in a gewürztraminer. This wine doesn't have even a hint of it. There is some ripe apricot, a sweet malty aroma, and honey, but no lychee. I can't pretend not to be a little disappointed (lychees always remind me of my graduate work in Mexico, when the little kids in the village where I was working would bring me bags of lychees). But the wine is surprisingly flavorful in the mouth. More apricot, as well as something a little petrol-like (I would easily mistake this for a riesling in a blind tasting, actually), and not a little sweetness. The acidity is lower than I like, and that plus the viscosity makes the wine a little flabby, although the sweetness could be camouflaging the sourness a bit. There is certainly some alcohol content, but it's not out of whack.
Overall, this is a wine that I wouldn't turn up my nose at, were someone to hand me a bottle. Of course, short of a bottle of sherry (a.k.a. salted mushrooms stuffed into a dirty gym sock and buried in the back yard for 3 months), there really aren't any wines I'd refuse to drink. I'm not as much of a snob as I pretend to be.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Gewürztraminer
Region: Washington State
Price: $7
I can tell by looking at it that it has some sweetness to it. Sugar and alcohol can both make a wine viscous, and I'm willing to bet this wine isn't too high in alcohol. Because of their inherent high sugar content, gewürztraminer grapes can make high alcohol wines if fermented dry, so I suppose it could go either way. But my vote is for sweet.
The wine is strangely unaromatic for a gewürztraminer. I've read that gewürztraminer grapes and lychees share some aromatic compounds, hence the signature lychee aroma you often get in a gewürztraminer. This wine doesn't have even a hint of it. There is some ripe apricot, a sweet malty aroma, and honey, but no lychee. I can't pretend not to be a little disappointed (lychees always remind me of my graduate work in Mexico, when the little kids in the village where I was working would bring me bags of lychees). But the wine is surprisingly flavorful in the mouth. More apricot, as well as something a little petrol-like (I would easily mistake this for a riesling in a blind tasting, actually), and not a little sweetness. The acidity is lower than I like, and that plus the viscosity makes the wine a little flabby, although the sweetness could be camouflaging the sourness a bit. There is certainly some alcohol content, but it's not out of whack.
Overall, this is a wine that I wouldn't turn up my nose at, were someone to hand me a bottle. Of course, short of a bottle of sherry (a.k.a. salted mushrooms stuffed into a dirty gym sock and buried in the back yard for 3 months), there really aren't any wines I'd refuse to drink. I'm not as much of a snob as I pretend to be.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Gewürztraminer
Region: Washington State
Price: $7
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
2007 Foris Fly-Over Rogue Valley
What's this, a non-French wine?! Indeed, I have returned to the good ol' US, at least for this wine. And boy was it worth it. I suppose you could call it a "Meritage" since it's a blend of traditional Bordeaux grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc - but I don't know if it counts because it's from Oregon, not California. But really, who cares, because it is so good. It's a deep garnet in the glass, and aromas of clove, mineral, and grape jam form a sweet-savory nose that doesn't quite warn you for the juiciness of the wine on the palate. It's a touch sweet with sourness and alcohol in perfect balance. The tannins are present but soft and refined, and frankly it tastes like fresh cherry juice going down.
This is a really short post, but frankly I don't have a lot more to say. The wine is good. And I rather be drinking it than typing right now.
Vintage: 2007
Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Price: $13
This is a really short post, but frankly I don't have a lot more to say. The wine is good. And I rather be drinking it than typing right now.
Vintage: 2007
Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Price: $13
Friday, February 18, 2011
2009 Laboure-Roi Mâcon-Villages St.-Armand
Another wine in my recent French exploration! It's been fun, and I may continue for a while, but...I think Italy may be calling. Stay tuned. But for the meantime, I present a bourgogne blanc - a white Burgundy - from the Macon region. Laboure-Roi is the third largest Burgundy producer, and it has been around forever. Well, at least since 1832. They make wines in a number of appellations and at a variety of price points. This is one of the cheap ones, but I think their quality is fairly reliable.
The color is a relatively deep gold for such a young wine. I suspect it's seen a bit of oak, although I can't detect a lot of toastiness on the nose, which would darken the color. The nose also carries a lot of yeasty, baking bread aromas, which means the wine was left to age on its lees - the dead yeast cells - which may possibly darken the color as well. There is a bit of fresh fruit on the nose, such as green apple and honeydew, but the aromas are pretty subdued.
The wine very easy-going in the mouth. Moderate acid and a touch of sugar to lend viscosity. It's not what I'd call an exciting wine; in fact it's pretty pedestrian. But it's tasty and the flavors of yeast, toast, and fresh fruit are concentrated, if not complex. A very easy drinking wine, and accessible to most people, I'd imagine. And emphatically not overoaked, like many a California chardonnay. I'd recommend this wine if you're looking for something simple to serve to guests who aren't adventurous when it comes to wine. It's good and safe.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Macon, Burgundy
Price: $13
The color is a relatively deep gold for such a young wine. I suspect it's seen a bit of oak, although I can't detect a lot of toastiness on the nose, which would darken the color. The nose also carries a lot of yeasty, baking bread aromas, which means the wine was left to age on its lees - the dead yeast cells - which may possibly darken the color as well. There is a bit of fresh fruit on the nose, such as green apple and honeydew, but the aromas are pretty subdued.
The wine very easy-going in the mouth. Moderate acid and a touch of sugar to lend viscosity. It's not what I'd call an exciting wine; in fact it's pretty pedestrian. But it's tasty and the flavors of yeast, toast, and fresh fruit are concentrated, if not complex. A very easy drinking wine, and accessible to most people, I'd imagine. And emphatically not overoaked, like many a California chardonnay. I'd recommend this wine if you're looking for something simple to serve to guests who aren't adventurous when it comes to wine. It's good and safe.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Macon, Burgundy
Price: $13
Sunday, February 13, 2011
2005 L'Oca Ciuca Toscana "The Drunken Goose"
I'll have to rely on someone who knows more Italian than "Grazie" and "Bongiorno" to tell me if L'Oca Ciuca actually means "The Drunken Goose," but either way it was good enough to get me to buy this bottle of Italian red. Not that I generally require that much persuasion. This is one of the so-called "Supertuscans" who operate outside the Italian wine laws by adding such grapes as cabernet sauvignon and merlot to their sangiovese. The horror! This particular blend is of sangiovese, merlot, and syrah.
It's an opaque garnet in the glass, with just a hint of browning towards the rim. The aromas are dense with dark fruits - blueberries and plums, mostly - and some palpable cocoa as well. The deliciousness extends to the palate. It's not at all sweet, but the fruits are juicy, the acid in perfect balance with the fine tannins and alcohol. Despite it's modest price, I suspect this wine could actually age a few more years and still evolve. The finish is a little sour, but overall the wine is very pleasant. I can see why the goose got drunk.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah
Region: Tuscany
Price: $12
It's an opaque garnet in the glass, with just a hint of browning towards the rim. The aromas are dense with dark fruits - blueberries and plums, mostly - and some palpable cocoa as well. The deliciousness extends to the palate. It's not at all sweet, but the fruits are juicy, the acid in perfect balance with the fine tannins and alcohol. Despite it's modest price, I suspect this wine could actually age a few more years and still evolve. The finish is a little sour, but overall the wine is very pleasant. I can see why the goose got drunk.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah
Region: Tuscany
Price: $12
Friday, February 11, 2011
2006 Jean-Baptiste Adam Riesling Alsace Réserve
Mmmmm....smell that mold.... Contrary to what you might expect, this is not actually a criticism of the wine. Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that, under certain conditions, can make some very luscious (and extremely expensive) white wines. Chateau d'Yquem, for example. The fungus bores tiny holes in the grape skin, letting the water evaporate and concentrating the sugars and acids in the grape; thus, many botrytized wines are very sweet - Sauternes, Tokaji, etc. But not all. Grapes that are affected by botrytis only moderately can retain enough water and be fermented dry, so you get a white table wine with the exotic floral, honey, and pineapple notes characteristic of a sweet botrytis wine.
This Alsatian riesling has all of these aromas, plus some delicous lime and orange blossom. It's a dark yellow-gold in the glass, due partly to it's age, I'm sure, but also to botrytis' influence. Honestly, I have no idea if it's going to be sweet or not on the palate. I do suspect the grapes were harvested late, which allowed the sugar levels to increase, so the wine could be sweet. Or it could have really high alcohol. Let's see, shall we?
It's half and half! It's a touch sweet, but by no means a sweet wine. Definitely some botrytis characters, some alcohol-related heat, and disappointingly low acid. This may be a result of the late harvest, since as sugar levels rise, acid levels decrease. It may also just be that the wine is a little past it's prime. While the actual levels of acid in wine don't really decrease with age, the molecules can enter into complexes with esters in alcohol, thus lowering one's perception of the acid. Once this process passes a certain point, the acid levels can seem too low and the wine feels flabby.
The wine is pretty tasty, though. I'd be happy to sit down to a glass of this, with or without food. It would have been even better 2 or 3 years ago.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Riesling
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $12
This Alsatian riesling has all of these aromas, plus some delicous lime and orange blossom. It's a dark yellow-gold in the glass, due partly to it's age, I'm sure, but also to botrytis' influence. Honestly, I have no idea if it's going to be sweet or not on the palate. I do suspect the grapes were harvested late, which allowed the sugar levels to increase, so the wine could be sweet. Or it could have really high alcohol. Let's see, shall we?
It's half and half! It's a touch sweet, but by no means a sweet wine. Definitely some botrytis characters, some alcohol-related heat, and disappointingly low acid. This may be a result of the late harvest, since as sugar levels rise, acid levels decrease. It may also just be that the wine is a little past it's prime. While the actual levels of acid in wine don't really decrease with age, the molecules can enter into complexes with esters in alcohol, thus lowering one's perception of the acid. Once this process passes a certain point, the acid levels can seem too low and the wine feels flabby.
The wine is pretty tasty, though. I'd be happy to sit down to a glass of this, with or without food. It would have been even better 2 or 3 years ago.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Riesling
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $12
Monday, February 7, 2011
2006 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
Emergency - I have found a wine shop going out of business! Sad for them, and oh-so-dangerous for me, because all their wines are 20-25% off. So I splurged on a Burgundy - not a super-expensive one, and not a particularly "classic" one either - but a Burgundy nonetheless. The appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is one of those rare Burgundy reds that isn't required to be made of 100% Pinot Noir. In fact, they tend to be more like 30% Pinot Noir, and the rest Gamay (the grape used to make Beaujolais, also part of Burgundy), and even some varied white grapes.
The color in the glass is beautiful - a pale garnet with lots of brown and some pale orange towards the rim. The aromas are wafting across the 2 feet between me and the glass. Definitely some grape jam (hello Gamay), but also some delicious, earthy Pinot notes, like black pepper, cocoa, mushroom, and forest floor. Very aromatic, indeed.
It's also quite nice on the palate - a little hefty on the acid, likely because 2006 was a somewhat damp year in Burgundy, and some of the grapes were unable to ripen fully - but there is still some very nice fruit, slight but refined tannins, and a peppery finish that I find very pleasing. (That last bit sounded very Jane Austen, didn't it? I bet Jane was a wine-lover....) It definitely tastes more like a Pinot than a Gamay to me, and Michel Lafarge is certainly known for his other, Pinot-based, Burgundies, so I'd hazard a bet that this is more than 30% Pinot. Regardless, it's a nice wine that I am happy to have found on the discount rack!
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Pinot Noir, Gamay
Region: Burgundy
Price: $18
The color in the glass is beautiful - a pale garnet with lots of brown and some pale orange towards the rim. The aromas are wafting across the 2 feet between me and the glass. Definitely some grape jam (hello Gamay), but also some delicious, earthy Pinot notes, like black pepper, cocoa, mushroom, and forest floor. Very aromatic, indeed.
It's also quite nice on the palate - a little hefty on the acid, likely because 2006 was a somewhat damp year in Burgundy, and some of the grapes were unable to ripen fully - but there is still some very nice fruit, slight but refined tannins, and a peppery finish that I find very pleasing. (That last bit sounded very Jane Austen, didn't it? I bet Jane was a wine-lover....) It definitely tastes more like a Pinot than a Gamay to me, and Michel Lafarge is certainly known for his other, Pinot-based, Burgundies, so I'd hazard a bet that this is more than 30% Pinot. Regardless, it's a nice wine that I am happy to have found on the discount rack!
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Pinot Noir, Gamay
Region: Burgundy
Price: $18
Friday, February 4, 2011
2009 Cave des Vignerons de Saumur White Les Pouches
Chenin blanc can have a very pronounced, somewhat telltale aroma. Some people think it smells like wet dog. Others think it smells like skunk. I think it smells like stinky blue cheese. Not always, and it becomes more pronounced, I think, when winemaking practices are less than idea (or sanitary).
This chenin blanc from the Saumur region of the Loire Valley smells like blue cheese. But not too much. A fine gorgonzola, perhaps, as opposed to a stinky stilton. There is also a cool mineral aroma, almost musty. I'm not getting any fruit to speak of.
The wine is bone-dry on the palate, and very sour. I did make the mistake of having some ice cream before tasting, though I tried to cleanse my palate. Sweet foods can make a dry wine taste overly sour and one-dimensional. So it could be that, but really I'm finding the wine quite thin in flavor, with some burning acidity. I can't really say whether it's balanced or not, because there's nothing there to balance. I'll have ot retaste this wine sometime pre-ice cream and see if it's any better. Because right now it's kind of like a glass of ice water with fake lemon juice squeezed into it.
Vintage: 2009
Region: Saumur, Loire Valley, France
Grape: Chenin Blanc
Price: $15
This chenin blanc from the Saumur region of the Loire Valley smells like blue cheese. But not too much. A fine gorgonzola, perhaps, as opposed to a stinky stilton. There is also a cool mineral aroma, almost musty. I'm not getting any fruit to speak of.
The wine is bone-dry on the palate, and very sour. I did make the mistake of having some ice cream before tasting, though I tried to cleanse my palate. Sweet foods can make a dry wine taste overly sour and one-dimensional. So it could be that, but really I'm finding the wine quite thin in flavor, with some burning acidity. I can't really say whether it's balanced or not, because there's nothing there to balance. I'll have ot retaste this wine sometime pre-ice cream and see if it's any better. Because right now it's kind of like a glass of ice water with fake lemon juice squeezed into it.
Vintage: 2009
Region: Saumur, Loire Valley, France
Grape: Chenin Blanc
Price: $15
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
2009 Celestin Blondeau Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays du Val de Loire
My wine class is discussing Loire wines, among others, this week so I'm...ahem...doing homework. I've had some lovely Loire wines in the past, including a 1989 Vouvray that I've probably mentioned before because it blew my socks off, or would have if I had been wearing any. I haven't had any real stinkers, but from what I understand, they are certainly out there. The viticulture & vinification restrictions in some parts of the Loire aren't as strict as other regions of France (for example, Bordeaux, where you can only pick grapes with your left hand every second Thursday of the month; I'm exaggerating, but not by much). This had led to some sloppy winemaking and overcropping practices that have left some people with a sour (literally) taste in their mouthes when it comes to Loire wines.
This one likely isn't of superior class - for one thing it says "Sauvignon Blanc" on the bottle, which is rarely a good sign on a French wine. Those strict French wine laws generally discourage - and sometimes prohibit - use of the varietal name anywhere on the bottle. Which is why you'll often have absolutely no idea what kind of grape is in the bottle you're holding in your hand. They like it that way. This wine is also just a generic "Loire," not from any specific appellation within the region, which means the grapes could come from anywhere and the laws limiting crop yield and winemaking procedures are less strict.
It's a surprisingly deep green-yellow in the glass, and what may be effervescence, or may just be that I poured a little too vigorously. The nose isn't leaping out of the glass at me, but it's pleasant enough. It's a little musty (not in a "corked" way, but just smells a little dusty, and there is some distinct brine on the nose as well, which I understand isn't uncommon for Loire wines. Which is one of the reasons they pair so well with seafood, I imagine. There is also some fruit - dried apricot and and maybe some graprefruit rind as well.
On the palate, it's actually surprisingly lacking in acidity. I mean, it's not missing altogether but this is by no means a classic cool-climate sauvignon blanc. So it's tending towards flabby and the texture is a bit oily in the mouth. A touch bitter, though that gives way to a bit more acidity on the finish. There isn't much fruit in the mouth or, really, much of anything. It's not disgusting, and it'll work fine for dinner tonight (shrimp in lemon and oregano vinaigrette), but it's not a wine I would hold up as a paragon of Loire winemaking.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Loire Valley, France
Price: $13
This one likely isn't of superior class - for one thing it says "Sauvignon Blanc" on the bottle, which is rarely a good sign on a French wine. Those strict French wine laws generally discourage - and sometimes prohibit - use of the varietal name anywhere on the bottle. Which is why you'll often have absolutely no idea what kind of grape is in the bottle you're holding in your hand. They like it that way. This wine is also just a generic "Loire," not from any specific appellation within the region, which means the grapes could come from anywhere and the laws limiting crop yield and winemaking procedures are less strict.
It's a surprisingly deep green-yellow in the glass, and what may be effervescence, or may just be that I poured a little too vigorously. The nose isn't leaping out of the glass at me, but it's pleasant enough. It's a little musty (not in a "corked" way, but just smells a little dusty, and there is some distinct brine on the nose as well, which I understand isn't uncommon for Loire wines. Which is one of the reasons they pair so well with seafood, I imagine. There is also some fruit - dried apricot and and maybe some graprefruit rind as well.
On the palate, it's actually surprisingly lacking in acidity. I mean, it's not missing altogether but this is by no means a classic cool-climate sauvignon blanc. So it's tending towards flabby and the texture is a bit oily in the mouth. A touch bitter, though that gives way to a bit more acidity on the finish. There isn't much fruit in the mouth or, really, much of anything. It's not disgusting, and it'll work fine for dinner tonight (shrimp in lemon and oregano vinaigrette), but it's not a wine I would hold up as a paragon of Loire winemaking.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Loire Valley, France
Price: $13
Friday, January 28, 2011
2009 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Regional Collection
Quick post this time, because I'm just really anxious to taste this wine. I found it on sale for $11 (normally $14, but still), and I just couldn't resist it. I've become quite a fan of the New Zealand sauvignon blanc, perhaps because they smell like the tropics. And believe me, buried under a cumulative 3+ feet of snow as I am, I could really use some tropics.
It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today!
Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14
PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey. Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever. I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!
It's a light green-yellow in the glass; very green, in fact. The nose does not disappoint. Mango and papaya and tamarind, and a touch of something green and spicy - almost like a chile. The chile really carries over to the palate, too. It's not spicy hot, of course, and it's not underripe or green pepper - it's like a mild green chile! Poblano, Anaheim, cubanelle...mixed with heaps of ripe papaya. Oh boy, did I need this wine today!
Either I'm getting better at picking wines or I'm becoming less discerning, because I haven't had a loser in quite some time. (Now that I've jinxed myself, stay tuned for my next tasting, which will inevitably smell like barnyard and taste like vegetable oil.)
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Price: $14
PS I think I'm going to stop giving my ratings. The more I learn and the more I taste, the more I realize that trying to put a number to a wine is kind of a lot of hooey. Who cares what number Robert Parker, or Wine Spectator, or I can calculate based on the acidity, the tannin, the longevity, whatever. I'll give you my opinion, and you can taste for yourself!
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
2009 Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto Rodòn
So, it's not technically rose season. Not that wines really have a season, but I always think of rose as a hot weather thing. But this one called my name, and I thought it would pair delicously with the chicken and olive vinaigrette I'm planning for dinner tonight. I must begin by emphasizing the fact that not all rose is a blush wine, a la Beringer or Riunite. It doesn't have to be sweet, and it doesn't have to be...nasty. In fact, I love rose. Roses just have a bad reputation, much like pitbulls, as a result of people mistreating them.
I'm not entirely sure what the blend of grapes is in this particular wine. Bardolino is the appellation, and also the type of wine (called Bardolino Chiaretto in the case of roses), but the grapes can be a blend of several, such as corvina, rondinella, and molinara. They are the same grapes used in Valpolicella, a wine that became one of my favorites after a trip to Venice a couple of years ago.
This wine is absolutely beautiful in the glass. One of the things I love about rose wines is the range of colors they can assume. This one is is salmon pink, weighted heavily on the orange side. The aromas aren't overly powerful - green apple and lime, with something weightier in the background, almost a smokiness.
Another thing I love about rose is its tendency towards creaminess with a hint of strawberries that comes after the acidity mellows out in the mouth. It doesn't always happen, but happily in this case it has. The wine is bone dry, and the first impression is of bracing acidity and a hint of effervescence. The wine then evolves a slight astringency and bitterness (there is some skin contact in the wine-making processes, which gives the wine its color, and can also lend depth of flavor and structure), then comes that delicious strawberries and cream. I'd be happy to drink roses all winter long!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Unknown
Region: Italy, Veneto
Price: $15
My rating: 91/100
I'm not entirely sure what the blend of grapes is in this particular wine. Bardolino is the appellation, and also the type of wine (called Bardolino Chiaretto in the case of roses), but the grapes can be a blend of several, such as corvina, rondinella, and molinara. They are the same grapes used in Valpolicella, a wine that became one of my favorites after a trip to Venice a couple of years ago.
This wine is absolutely beautiful in the glass. One of the things I love about rose wines is the range of colors they can assume. This one is is salmon pink, weighted heavily on the orange side. The aromas aren't overly powerful - green apple and lime, with something weightier in the background, almost a smokiness.
Another thing I love about rose is its tendency towards creaminess with a hint of strawberries that comes after the acidity mellows out in the mouth. It doesn't always happen, but happily in this case it has. The wine is bone dry, and the first impression is of bracing acidity and a hint of effervescence. The wine then evolves a slight astringency and bitterness (there is some skin contact in the wine-making processes, which gives the wine its color, and can also lend depth of flavor and structure), then comes that delicious strawberries and cream. I'd be happy to drink roses all winter long!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Unknown
Region: Italy, Veneto
Price: $15
My rating: 91/100
Saturday, January 22, 2011
2005 Abbaye de St-Ferme Bordeaux Supérieur Les Vignes du Soir
Yes! It's a 2005 Bordeaux! 2005 was touted as the "vintage of the century" for Bordeaux. Now it's 2009 (keep your eyes peeled - they're starting to roll into US shops!). This is by no means a Premier Cru wine - Bordeaux Supérieur is essentially a generic appellation within the region of Bordeaux, distinct from plain old Bordeaux AOC by having more alcohol in it. This doesn't mean it's not a good wine, though. I could go on for days about the issues related to the Bordeaux classification system (and believe me, some people have), but to be concise: the current ranking system of many Bordeaux wines was erected in 1855 and hasn't really changed much since. So it's not exactly based on up-to-the-minute quality.
The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.
In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux. Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100
The color is a very deep garnet with some definite browning towards the rim. A top-flight 2005 Bordeaux could easily age for more than 25 years and still drink well. This one has had 6 years in the bottle (hence the browning), and that's probably enough for it. The primary aromas seem to be a bit overpowered by oak, but there is still some black currant fruit peeking through, and something that reminds me of soy sauce. And there are some nice, earthy mushroom aromas as well. I do have to mention that there is a bit of a "barnyard" odor, but we won't dwell on that. It's a French thing.
In the mouth, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant Bordeaux I have ever tasted. I may have an American palate (I am, after all, an American), but I often find Bordeaux a tad harsh. This could also be because I've never had a really good Bordeaux. Anyway, there is plenty of acid and tannin, but the tannins are only slightly coarse - akin to the fuzzier side of velcro, as opposed to the side with all the little hooks - and the acid is nicely balanced by some black fruits and spice. It's perfectly ripe and juicy, without being a fruit bomb. And best of all - it costs $6!!!
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Region: Bordeaux Supérieur
Price: $6
My rating: 92/100
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
2009 Heinrich Seebrich Riesling Kabinett Rheinhessen Niersteiner Ölberg
I am soooooo excited for this wine. I might be drinking it a bit on the early side; the high acidity in many German rieslings will allow the wine to age and improve for much longer than most white wines. I bet this wine will be even better in 5 or 10 years. Of course, I haven't yet tasted it, so perhaps I speak too soon.....
It's a light lemon yellow with hints of silver in the glass - I might think it was a sauvignon blanc if I guessed merely on sight. There is also a hint of effervescence, likely due to the screwcap. There is some hefty lime on the nose - I can tell it's going to be sour! - along with some yeasty, baking bread aromas. This comes from the winemaker leaving the dead yeast cells (lees) in with the wine while it ages, and will also allow a wine to age better, along with the high acidity. There are also some floral and herbaceous notes - dill, I think. (I'm terrible with flower aromas - I clearly need to smell more flowers.)
Oh, yeah, I was right. This is a wine that could age for a few years. In addition to the acidity (which is certainly present, but not overpowering or out of balance) and the lees, there is also a hint of sweetness - sugar can help a wine age more gracefully. The designation kabinett, unless otherwise noted, does indicate a slightly sweet wine, but it is the "driest" of the different levels of ripeness by which German wines are ranked by law. I chose this particular wine because I'm making pork chops with apricots for dinner and I needed a wine that was as least as sweet as my entree. Drinking a dry wine with food that has some sweetness to it can make a great wine taste sour and boring.
That said, this is not a sweet wine by any means. The flavors are savory, dominated by dill and lime, and a touch of that distinctive riesling petrol or rubbery aroma (which Germans claim their wines don't have, but they do). i can still sense the effervescence on my tongue, which adds to the piquancy of the wine.
Now I have to go cook dinner before I drink all the wine by itself!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Rheinhessen, Germany
Price: $14
My rating: 90/100
It's a light lemon yellow with hints of silver in the glass - I might think it was a sauvignon blanc if I guessed merely on sight. There is also a hint of effervescence, likely due to the screwcap. There is some hefty lime on the nose - I can tell it's going to be sour! - along with some yeasty, baking bread aromas. This comes from the winemaker leaving the dead yeast cells (lees) in with the wine while it ages, and will also allow a wine to age better, along with the high acidity. There are also some floral and herbaceous notes - dill, I think. (I'm terrible with flower aromas - I clearly need to smell more flowers.)
Oh, yeah, I was right. This is a wine that could age for a few years. In addition to the acidity (which is certainly present, but not overpowering or out of balance) and the lees, there is also a hint of sweetness - sugar can help a wine age more gracefully. The designation kabinett, unless otherwise noted, does indicate a slightly sweet wine, but it is the "driest" of the different levels of ripeness by which German wines are ranked by law. I chose this particular wine because I'm making pork chops with apricots for dinner and I needed a wine that was as least as sweet as my entree. Drinking a dry wine with food that has some sweetness to it can make a great wine taste sour and boring.
That said, this is not a sweet wine by any means. The flavors are savory, dominated by dill and lime, and a touch of that distinctive riesling petrol or rubbery aroma (which Germans claim their wines don't have, but they do). i can still sense the effervescence on my tongue, which adds to the piquancy of the wine.
Now I have to go cook dinner before I drink all the wine by itself!
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Rheinhessen, Germany
Price: $14
My rating: 90/100
Sunday, January 16, 2011
2009 Domaine du Rin du Bois Touraine Sauvignon
I went to the website of the producers of this wine because I was intrigued by the words "vigneron independant" (or something like that - the bottle is in the fridge and the dog is on my lap and I'm not getting up to look). I thoroughly enjoyed browsing around the site, not only because of the amusing infelicities of translation ("the vineyard" became "the wineyard." I think I would like to have a wineyard.) I was also very impressed by the level of detail it gives regarding the viticulture and vinification of the wine. Everything from the training system of the vines to the bottling date of the finished wine. Based on their use of free run juice (the first juice to come out of the grape upon being lightly pressed), I expect this to be a tasty sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley.
The wine is a medium-pale lemon yellow with a hint of green; not unusual for a sauvignon blanc. I can't get much aroma out of it (possibly because I sort of scorched some panko-crusted tilapia while making dinner and my apartment smells like a bad fish and chip shop). What I do get is green apple, but no cat pee, I'm pleased to report. In the mouth, it's pretty much a classic French sauvignon blanc, which is not at all a bad thing, though it's not something "special." The acid and alcohol in the wine are perfectly in balance, and the wine is pleasantly weighty, making it not a bad white wine to enjoy in winter. My biggest qualm would be a fairly high bitterness quotient. I think that's what got in the way of this wine's pairing with my dinner (once I scraped off the burned part). The tilapia was served with fennel tzatziki, and I think the bitterness of the wine and the bitterness of the yogurt in the sauce really clashed. But all in all, this is a very acceptable wine that I wouldn't hesitate to buy again, or to recommend with dinner, as long as you're not having yogurt....
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Touraine, Loire Valley
Price: $12
My rating: 87/100
The wine is a medium-pale lemon yellow with a hint of green; not unusual for a sauvignon blanc. I can't get much aroma out of it (possibly because I sort of scorched some panko-crusted tilapia while making dinner and my apartment smells like a bad fish and chip shop). What I do get is green apple, but no cat pee, I'm pleased to report. In the mouth, it's pretty much a classic French sauvignon blanc, which is not at all a bad thing, though it's not something "special." The acid and alcohol in the wine are perfectly in balance, and the wine is pleasantly weighty, making it not a bad white wine to enjoy in winter. My biggest qualm would be a fairly high bitterness quotient. I think that's what got in the way of this wine's pairing with my dinner (once I scraped off the burned part). The tilapia was served with fennel tzatziki, and I think the bitterness of the wine and the bitterness of the yogurt in the sauce really clashed. But all in all, this is a very acceptable wine that I wouldn't hesitate to buy again, or to recommend with dinner, as long as you're not having yogurt....
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Touraine, Loire Valley
Price: $12
My rating: 87/100
Saturday, January 15, 2011
2006 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon Napa-Mendocino-Sonoma Counties
After spending all day selling bottles of wine, I start to get a little jealous of all the people going home to crack open a bottle. Therefore, I always find myself particularly excited to do the same when I finally get home. Hopefully this wine will fulfill my expectations. I'm a little nervous about the "tri-county" sourcing of grapes for this wine. It's not that I strictly believe that good wines have to be from a specific vineyard or appellation, but I sometimes suspect that a blend of grapes from different locales is a tactic for either covering up faults in one of the regions' grapes, or ensuring a high degree of consistency (i.e. predictability and possible boringness) from year to year. But I'll give it a whirl anyway.
It's a very deep ruby in the glass, with just a hint of orange at the rim. There isn't much fruit on the nose, more toast and tobacco, rather herbal and licoricey. But there's some nice black currant in the mouth, along with some more licorice, and a touch of smokiness. The acid, alcohol, and tannin are delightfully balanced, and the finish is long and juicy and tart. This is a delicious wine! Worth the wait, for sure.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Napa-Mendocino-Sonoma Counties
Price: $20
My rating: 92/100
It's a very deep ruby in the glass, with just a hint of orange at the rim. There isn't much fruit on the nose, more toast and tobacco, rather herbal and licoricey. But there's some nice black currant in the mouth, along with some more licorice, and a touch of smokiness. The acid, alcohol, and tannin are delightfully balanced, and the finish is long and juicy and tart. This is a delicious wine! Worth the wait, for sure.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Napa-Mendocino-Sonoma Counties
Price: $20
My rating: 92/100
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
2008 Hahn Pinot Noir Monterey
I'm back from a sales meeting (also known as the company drunk-fest), followed by a week of abstinence/liver repair. That said, there was some excellent wine during the meeting, along with some excellent food. There was also karaoke. But we won't go there.
Given this wine in a blind tasting, I might not peg it as a pinot noir. It's darker in color than I'd expect, though a vibrant garnet with just a hint of orange towards the rim. The nose is robust, full of baked blueberry, cinnamon, and smoky tobacco. The tobacco also comes through on the palette, along with some delicious sour red fruits. The wine is absolutely delicious, with just a hint of tannins, well-balanced acidity, and a pleasant, round texture. My only complaint would be that the alcohol seems a little high. 14.5 is too much for a wine a delicate as pinot noir, and it's kind of making my tongue hurt. But the tastiness of the fruit and the mouth-watering acidity make up for it. And at $12 a bottle, this is a great value wine.
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Monterey
Price: $12
My rating: 90/100
Given this wine in a blind tasting, I might not peg it as a pinot noir. It's darker in color than I'd expect, though a vibrant garnet with just a hint of orange towards the rim. The nose is robust, full of baked blueberry, cinnamon, and smoky tobacco. The tobacco also comes through on the palette, along with some delicious sour red fruits. The wine is absolutely delicious, with just a hint of tannins, well-balanced acidity, and a pleasant, round texture. My only complaint would be that the alcohol seems a little high. 14.5 is too much for a wine a delicate as pinot noir, and it's kind of making my tongue hurt. But the tastiness of the fruit and the mouth-watering acidity make up for it. And at $12 a bottle, this is a great value wine.
Vintage: 2008
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Monterey
Price: $12
My rating: 90/100
Saturday, January 1, 2011
2009 Villa Marchesi Pinot Grigio
I'm really supposed to be "drying out" after a long week of holiday wine consumption. (Thank you to those of you who opened your wine cellars for us - it was delightful! And I'm really nervous now that I know so many of you are reading this....)
Anyway, I'm having pasta for dinner, and I just can't do Italian without wine. It may actually be illegal in Italy (given how convoluted their wine laws are, it wouldn't be surprising). Tonight's wine is a Friulian pinot grigio with a medium-pale gold hue with even a hint of brown. Pinot Grigio grapes are actually quite pink for white wine grapes, so that can happen while the wine is still young. Some even pick up some pink from the skins.
The aromas are intensely fruity, with some delicious honeydew melon and pear, as well as honeysuckle and yeasty notes. Very intriguing! In the mouth, it's a tad flabby. It could use a little more acidity to counteract the slight sweetness and medium-high viscosity. That said, it's very smooth and I think it will pair nicely (because, frankly, it's a little bland) with my pasta.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Grigio
Region: Friuli
Price: $11
My rating: 83/100
Anyway, I'm having pasta for dinner, and I just can't do Italian without wine. It may actually be illegal in Italy (given how convoluted their wine laws are, it wouldn't be surprising). Tonight's wine is a Friulian pinot grigio with a medium-pale gold hue with even a hint of brown. Pinot Grigio grapes are actually quite pink for white wine grapes, so that can happen while the wine is still young. Some even pick up some pink from the skins.
The aromas are intensely fruity, with some delicious honeydew melon and pear, as well as honeysuckle and yeasty notes. Very intriguing! In the mouth, it's a tad flabby. It could use a little more acidity to counteract the slight sweetness and medium-high viscosity. That said, it's very smooth and I think it will pair nicely (because, frankly, it's a little bland) with my pasta.
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Pinot Grigio
Region: Friuli
Price: $11
My rating: 83/100
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