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Friday, April 1, 2011

2006 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin 28 Kalimna

This was one of the first wines I bought when I first starting "collecting" wines (I'm not really a collector - I tend to have between 14-17 bottles at any given time - but there are some I'm holding onto so perhaps I qualify as a collector-in-training?). I'm not sure what has moved me to open it tonight, as I have nothing momentous to celebrate, except for the fact that I have a day off tomorrow. A rare and much appreciated occurrence.

Penfolds is the producer responsible for Australia's most expensive wine, Grange. This bottle is from a significantly lower echelon, made from grapes sourced from different areas in Australia, but I expect it will still be a nice wine to sip for the evening. It's a Shiraz, so it's possible it could be a really big wine, but I don't have to go anywhere so the 300% ABV won't be a problem.

It's dense and dark in the glass; not inky purple, but a deep, deep garnet. It's so dark I can't tell if the wine is clear or cloudy, though I feel like I see a hint of turbidity. While the color of the wine is no trifle, the aromas are surprisingly delicate. There's fresh mint, wet stone, blackberries, and a hint of toasty oak. Very attractive. Interestingly, I don't get any of the black pepper and smoky, roasted meats that I often associate with a shiraz or syrah.

In the mouth - this is 100% not the wine I expected it to be. I think I might let it sit and open up a bit more before drinking it, because it's surprisingly muted and tight right now. Aside from the alcohol (which is appreciable), I am not getting much flavor or texture at all, aside from a lingering impression of black olives and anise. The acid levels appear correct, and the bitterness is in proportion to the tannins such as I can sense them. But right now, then wine is just very thin.  I will report back in about an hour.
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So, here we are over 2 hours later, and the wine has opened up only moderately. I have to say, this is probably the most restrained Australian shiraz I have ever tasted. Some smoke did evolve on the nose, and the palate is a hint juicier and the tannins are more apparent, but by far the most prominent element is still the alcohol. All in all, I actually quite like the elegance of this wine; if the alcohol were about 1-1/5% less, it would be a real winner.

Vintage: 2006
Grape: Shiraz
Region: Australia
Price: $26

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