In general, I have a hard time appreciating the virtues of red Bordeaux. It's not that I'm that dedicated to the New World Fruit Bomb; I quite like a number of old world-style wines. It's more likely that, Bordeaux being what it is (and as expensive as it is), I just haven't had very many good ones. There are some delicious, inexpensive Bordeaux out there, I think. Thus far, however, I have been unable to locate one. The Lyonnat is fairly moderate in price ($26), so perhaps it won't take the enamel off my teeth?
It's a deep, deep garnet in the glass, with a touch of pink and orange in the rim. It's still young, but from what I've read this isn't a Bordeaux that's meant to spend 25 years in the cave, so I'm not too concerned. The aromas aren't full, but there is some ripe red cherry, and some distinct earthiness and minerality. Terroir, perhaps?
And in the mouth? Yup. That's a Bordeaux: high acid, high tannin, and a bit bitter as well. This wine isn't doing much to improve my opinion of Bordeaux, I'm afraid. Strictly by the numbers, it's not a bad wine. The structure is certainly there, though I'm not sensing much meat on those bones (despite the fact that merlot is often viewed as the "flesh" in a cabernet sauvignon blend). The viscosity is pretty light and the flavor is a little hollow in the middle. But it seems to open up a bit with time, lending some earthiness on the palette, and the finish evolves some sour cherry towards the end. 84.
Vintage: 2006
Grape: 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux
Price: $26
My rating: 84/100
Monday, December 20, 2010
Sunday, December 19, 2010
2009 Turtle Creek Sauvignon Blanc
I'm going local with my wine selection tonight. Turtle Creek is a vineyard and winery located in Lincoln, Massachusetts, dedicated to making world class wines from V. vinifera. I.e. not made from grapes native to America, or fruits other than grapes. Not that there is anything (much) wrong with native or hybrid grape wines, or apple, pear, and peach wines, but the owner and winemaker, Kip, has studied long and hard to prove that wines made from European varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc can indeed be grown in New England. And I think he has more or less succeeded (though I must point out that he does also purchase grapes from vineyards in California for blending and also for producing varietals that can't be grown here, like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon - they need warmth that we just don't have).
The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....
In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.
This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100
PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.
The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is, I believe, made from California grapes. But Kip has done a masterful job with the winemaking, producing a true-to-form New World sauvignon, with hints of tropical fruits and plenty of acid. The hue is a medium lemon with rays of bright silver at the rim; very nice. There is no way to delicately dance around the nose of this wine; it has some mineral and papaya, and a nice little hint of cat pee. And I should know, because I just scooped the litter box this morning. Surprisingly enough, cat pee is not an insult to a sauvignon blanc. Don't you dare say it smells like a wet dog, though. That's crossing the line....
In the mouth, it's very easy-drinking. A hint of residual sugar and even a bit of astringency - unusual in a white wine, as astringency comes from skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes, all of which are removed before fermentation in white wines - balance out the acidity. The mouthfeel is silky and the finish is quite long and minerally.
This wine makes me proud to be a "Friend of the Turtle." 87
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Massachusetts
Price: $17
My rating: 87/100
PS People often ask Kip where the name of the winery came from. No, there is not a creek, nor are there turtles. But he is thinking of importing some.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
2006 Vietti Barolo Castiglione
This wine was most definitely a splurge, though since I work in a wine shop it wasn't as expensive as it could have been. But I was on a search for an Italian wine that would compliment some unusual cheeses - namely Taleggio, Pecorino Toscano, and Robiola due Latte - to present as a pairing for a wine studies course I am taking. But even at the full price of $45, this wine is worth every penny.
The aromas are delicate and luscious - milk chocolate, sweet cherries, and violets. Just the perfume I would desire in a nebbiolo. In the mouth, it is certainly muscular and tannic, as nebbiolos tend to be, but the tannins are velvety and refined, not in the least coarse. They coat the mouth in the perfect way to make you yearn for some creamy cheeses or a savory steak. It's perfectly balanced and has a lingering, ethereal finish that most winemakers would give their left pinky for. It will be even better after it ages another year or two.
This is a wine for which I highly encourage you to go out of your way. 93.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Nebbiolo
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Price: $45
My rating: 93/100
The aromas are delicate and luscious - milk chocolate, sweet cherries, and violets. Just the perfume I would desire in a nebbiolo. In the mouth, it is certainly muscular and tannic, as nebbiolos tend to be, but the tannins are velvety and refined, not in the least coarse. They coat the mouth in the perfect way to make you yearn for some creamy cheeses or a savory steak. It's perfectly balanced and has a lingering, ethereal finish that most winemakers would give their left pinky for. It will be even better after it ages another year or two.
This is a wine for which I highly encourage you to go out of your way. 93.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: Nebbiolo
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Price: $45
My rating: 93/100
Thursday, December 2, 2010
2010 Santa Ema Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley
Yes, you read correctly - 2010! It's not a beaujolais nouveau, so it must be...South American! Here we have a newly released Chilean sauvignon blanc. It's extremely pale yellow in color, with distinct silver tones. It also has some effervescence to it, though it could be mostly due to the screw cap closure. On the nose, it's fairly classic sauvignon blanc - more New Zealand than France, though. Green grass and mango predominate, with something akin to corn - even corn tortilla - in the background.
It's also quite nice in the mouth. The first impression is just a hint of residual sugar, followed by slight effervescence, pleasant acidity, and tropical fruits. This is an incredibly pleasant wine. The effervescence is making my tongue tingle, which is always fun, and for a $10 wine the finish is incredibly long and juicy. Maybe a bit bitter, but nothing off-putting. Looking forward to trying it with my roasted yellow pepper soup tonight. Thimbs up! 90.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Maipo Valley, Chile
Price: $10
My rating: 90/100
It's also quite nice in the mouth. The first impression is just a hint of residual sugar, followed by slight effervescence, pleasant acidity, and tropical fruits. This is an incredibly pleasant wine. The effervescence is making my tongue tingle, which is always fun, and for a $10 wine the finish is incredibly long and juicy. Maybe a bit bitter, but nothing off-putting. Looking forward to trying it with my roasted yellow pepper soup tonight. Thimbs up! 90.
Vintage: 2010
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Maipo Valley, Chile
Price: $10
My rating: 90/100
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
2008 Villa Vallemaggiore Maremma Toscana Campostella
I'm on an Italy kick these days, it seems. This wine, also from Tuscany, is one of the so-called "supertuscans," which essentially means that the winemakers didn't follow the rules set out by the Italian government, thus there wine is not "classifiable." This particular winemaker broke the rules by blending 15% cabernet sauvignon into his or her sangiovese. This often has the effect of taming sangiovese's prevalent acid and tannins, making for a more approachable wine, in the international sense.
This one is a lovely medium crimson in the glass, obviously still quite young as it hasn't taken on any browns or oranges, even towards the rim. I feel like I can sense some of the cabernet sauvignon on the nose, as there is a distinct aroma of currants, some green pepper, and some oak. But in the mouth, this is most definitely a sangiovese. Sour city. The tannins aren't overpowering, but are fairly wooly and unrefined. I would classify this as a "rustic" wine. The finish is short and bitter, and there isn't much in the way of fruit on the palette. A little currant and spice, perhaps, but it isn't pronounced. This wine will be fine with dinner, but I wouldn't just sit down to a glass of it unaccompanied (often how I feel about sangiovese-dominant wines). 83.
This one is a lovely medium crimson in the glass, obviously still quite young as it hasn't taken on any browns or oranges, even towards the rim. I feel like I can sense some of the cabernet sauvignon on the nose, as there is a distinct aroma of currants, some green pepper, and some oak. But in the mouth, this is most definitely a sangiovese. Sour city. The tannins aren't overpowering, but are fairly wooly and unrefined. I would classify this as a "rustic" wine. The finish is short and bitter, and there isn't much in the way of fruit on the palette. A little currant and spice, perhaps, but it isn't pronounced. This wine will be fine with dinner, but I wouldn't just sit down to a glass of it unaccompanied (often how I feel about sangiovese-dominant wines). 83.
Sunday, November 28, 2010
2008 Poderi Sanguineto Rosso di Montepulciano
I am excited to taste this wine, not only because I've heard its praises sung several times, but also because I'm interested to see if I can taste the difference between wine from this bottle and the one I opened at a tasting at the wine shop a couple of weeks ago. Several of the wines at that tasting didn't perform up to expectations, and my colleagues and I wondered if they weren't experiencing some bottle-shock. Bottle-shock is a condition that wines undergo when they're disturbed in some way, such as in a rough transport. The flavors of the wine can become muted or disjointed for a few weeks following a "traumatic even."Some people do not believe that bottle-shock exists, and I haven't had much experience with it. I don't know if I'll be able to conjure up the experience of the wine from a few weeks ago, but we shall see.
The color is a deep garnet, darker than many sangiovese-dominant wines I've seen. But Rosso di Montepulciano is aged in oak at least one year, which can enhance color (and tannin). On the nose, I don't get a whole lot, but what I do get is delicate and perfumey. Some ripe red cherries, vanilla, and candied violets. In the mouth - heavenly! It is delicate but firm, with excellent balance between acid and tannin. It's a little hollow in the middle but the texture is creamy and the flavors are just lovely. There is a hint of juicy sweetness, cocoa, and toasty oak.
This wine is definitely not pure sangiovese - the acid and astringency are far too low. By Italian law, Rosso di Montepulciano must be at least 70%, but other grapes such as canaiolo nero and mammolo can also be added. Whatever blend was used, the wine is delicious, and I'm looking forward to pairing it with the sausage and polenta I have on the stove.
As for the bottle-shock, this wine tastes vastly different than the one I sampled in the shop. I remember a distinct stewed-tomato flavor in that wine, and it definitely lacked the delicacy of the bottle I'm tasting now. Certainly not proof that bottle-shock exists, but very interesting to note, nonetheless.
Recommended! 89.
The color is a deep garnet, darker than many sangiovese-dominant wines I've seen. But Rosso di Montepulciano is aged in oak at least one year, which can enhance color (and tannin). On the nose, I don't get a whole lot, but what I do get is delicate and perfumey. Some ripe red cherries, vanilla, and candied violets. In the mouth - heavenly! It is delicate but firm, with excellent balance between acid and tannin. It's a little hollow in the middle but the texture is creamy and the flavors are just lovely. There is a hint of juicy sweetness, cocoa, and toasty oak.
This wine is definitely not pure sangiovese - the acid and astringency are far too low. By Italian law, Rosso di Montepulciano must be at least 70%, but other grapes such as canaiolo nero and mammolo can also be added. Whatever blend was used, the wine is delicious, and I'm looking forward to pairing it with the sausage and polenta I have on the stove.
As for the bottle-shock, this wine tastes vastly different than the one I sampled in the shop. I remember a distinct stewed-tomato flavor in that wine, and it definitely lacked the delicacy of the bottle I'm tasting now. Certainly not proof that bottle-shock exists, but very interesting to note, nonetheless.
Recommended! 89.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
2006 Paso Creek Merlot Paso Robles
Poor merlot. It has such a bad reputation, ever since that guy in Sideways whose name I can't remember derided it vociferously. But this is a guy who drinks out of a spit bucket. So why do people listen to him??
Merlot is, perhaps, a little out of vogue right now, but it's an estimable wine, one of the varietal foundations of nearly all Bordeaux wines, and the sole grape used in Chateau Petrus, one of the most expensive and revered wines in the world.
This bottle is not Chateau Petrus. I seriously doubt I will ever be in the same room as Petrus, let alone have one in my apartment. But this is a wine from Paso Robles, a place where wine grapes have been grown since the late 1700s. Not bad for the "new world!" The wine in my glass is a deep, vibrant, gorgeous crimson with a tiny pink rim. The aromas are robust and savory, with earth, umami, and something biscuity in the background. And there is also some of that plum that one expects to find in a merlot.
In the mouth, it's a little aggressive - high alcohol and overt sourness make it a prickly and puckersome wine, and there isn't much fruit to balance it out. The wine does have excellent structure with mild but firm tannins, but it's just not a joy to hold it in my mouth. And it doesn't get much better once swallowed. Sourness and a slightly bitterness remain long after any fruit flavors have dissipated.
Not a wine to go out of your way to find. 83.
Merlot is, perhaps, a little out of vogue right now, but it's an estimable wine, one of the varietal foundations of nearly all Bordeaux wines, and the sole grape used in Chateau Petrus, one of the most expensive and revered wines in the world.
This bottle is not Chateau Petrus. I seriously doubt I will ever be in the same room as Petrus, let alone have one in my apartment. But this is a wine from Paso Robles, a place where wine grapes have been grown since the late 1700s. Not bad for the "new world!" The wine in my glass is a deep, vibrant, gorgeous crimson with a tiny pink rim. The aromas are robust and savory, with earth, umami, and something biscuity in the background. And there is also some of that plum that one expects to find in a merlot.
In the mouth, it's a little aggressive - high alcohol and overt sourness make it a prickly and puckersome wine, and there isn't much fruit to balance it out. The wine does have excellent structure with mild but firm tannins, but it's just not a joy to hold it in my mouth. And it doesn't get much better once swallowed. Sourness and a slightly bitterness remain long after any fruit flavors have dissipated.
Not a wine to go out of your way to find. 83.
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