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Tuesday, May 31, 2011

2008 Egervin Egri Bikavér Bull's Blood

Yes, you read correctly. Bull's Blood. And just for extra fun, I'll tell you up front that it's from Hungary. So, yes, I am drinking a Hungarian wine called Bull's Blood. What of it?

Actually, it's quite an ancient wine. Legend has it that the name originates from the 16th Century when the Turks laid siege to the town of Eger in Hungary. The inhabitants of Eger are said to have put up unexpected resistance, to the point that the Turks eventually gave up their siege. Rumors abounded that the reasons for the locals' strength was that they mixed the blood of bulls into their red wine. And the name stuck.

The grapes used to make it are many, and mostly unpronounceable. Traditionally the main grape was kadarka, although it is notoriously difficult to grow and is therefore in decline in Hungarian vineyards, being replaced by other varieties such as kekfrankos and portugieser, also ingredients in Bull's Blood (along with 7 other possible varieties).

The color does not particularly look like blood - bull's or otherwise - it's a medium ruby with violet towards the rim. Nor does it smell like blood (happily), but strongly of black pepper, fallen leaves, and dark fruits, like ripe plum. Not a fresh-smelling wine, but actually quite appealing.

On the palate, it's a little thin in flavor and...well, weird in texture. The acid is high enough - perhaps a little too high - that the wine is not flabby, but it has a rather strange mouth-coating property that I can't quite explain. It doesn't appear to be due to high alcohol or sugar content, the two usual suspects. There are some pleasant pepper and plum notes, but all in all it's hollow midpalate in terms of concentration of flavor, and there's a lack of freshness that almost tastes like the old oak barrel the wine was probably matured in.

Not a wine I would drink every night, but passable for $9 and not an unworthy companion for the cheeseburger I'm about to eat for dinner. But I wouldn't waste a nice steak on it.

Vintage: 2008
Grapes: Kadarka, etc.
Region: Egri, Hungary
Price: $9

Friday, May 27, 2011

2009 S.A. Prum Riesling QbA Mosel Essence

I almost didn't buy this wine. I have an aversion to wines from non-English-speaking countries that use English words in their names. The ostentatious "Essence" written upside the bottle nearly turned me off. It's too much like "Relax" riesling from Germany or, god forbid, "Blue Ridge" which you'd think would come from somewhere in the Appalachian mountains, but actually comes from Bulgaria.

But, it's Friday before a long weekend, it's 90 degrees out, I don't have air conditioning, or anything to do, and I wanted some cheap riesling. So there you have it. My standards are easily compromised.

The wine is a pale green-yellow in the glass (though I have to admit, I was looking more at the condensation on the outside of the glass, and thinking about how cool and refreshing it looked). The nose is intense with fruit - green apple, apricot - and floral notes, roses specifically. I also get a hint of...not petrol, exactly, more like pencil eraser, and something kind of like wet dog (though I suspect that's actually my dog, who is sitting beside me and who often plays in her water dish).

It's sweet on the palate, though not disproportionately so. The acid is right up there with it for balance, and there's a distinct tingle of effervescence on the tip of the tongue (thank you, screw top!). The finish is long and juicy, but there is a savory spice and minerality there, too, keeping the fruits in check. Pair this with some pad thai and you're in heaven.

All in all, best $14 I've spent in quite a while. Essence. Who knew?

Vintage: 2009
Grape: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
Price: $14

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Bordeaux

Look at me, posting twice in one week. Today we have a Bordeaux, but I'm pretty sure it's made in a more modern, international style than a traditional Bordeaux. I base this on two things - I have read that this wine will peak in 2011-2012, which is a very short time for a Bordeaux; and it has 14.5% ABV. If I could whistle, I would be doing so now. Granted 2009 was a warm year in Bordeaux, so higher sugar (and hence alcohol) levels are to be expected, but 14.5% is still more indicative of California than France.

The color is deep ruby - it's even deeper in color than the malbec I tasted a couple of days ago. The tears are stained purple; this is a highly extracted wine. The aromas have a lot of ripe fruit, black cherry, almost jammy but not overripe and with a hint of barnyard and leather to balance it. It's really quite appealing actually.

On the palate, I am surprised that I am not whacked over the head with a sensation of heat - the alcohol is high, but it's largely balanced out by a touch of sweetness, juicy fruit (perhaps just the slightest bit overripe, but not raisiny or sunburned), and an estimable, but not unpleasant, bitterness. The sensation heat does grow on the palate as the wine evolves in the mouth and in the end the finish is more heat and bitterness than fruit, but all around this is a wine to enjoy. Especially if you have a nice lamb chop and rosemary potatoes...mmmm......

Vintage: 2009
Grapes: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Bordeaux, France
Price: $17

Monday, May 23, 2011

2007 Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec Luján de Cuyo Reserva

It has been an extremely long time since I posted. I was in the midst of finishing up a course in the international wine trade and, frankly, was completely burned out on thinking about wine. Not drinking it, mind you, just thinking about it. But I've had a couple of weeks to recuperate, and I think I'm ready to give it a go.

I have such fond memories of Luigi Bosca malbec. Years ago, when my dad was traveling to South America for work, he came back raving about the wine. At the time, it was extremely hard - even impossible - to find the wine in the US. Then about 4 years ago, my parents and I went to Argentina and immersed ourselves (almost literally) in the country's wine. Aside from a nice bottle of Tikal and some wine of unknown variety or provenance that came out of a big plastic jug at a street market, the Luigi Bosca was some of the best we had. Happily, it's now widely available in the US - I even managed to find this bottle on sale!

I've been saving this bottle for a special occasion, but for some reason I've decided to open it. Part of it is that I have a ridiculous number of wines that I've been saving for a special occasion, and...I don't have any special occasions (or, more specifically, anyone to share the wines with on special occasions). I'm also opening it now because Argentinian malbecs aren't really noted for their longevity and I don't want this wine to turn the corner before I decide to open it up. And, finally, it's the 10th in what is expected to be a 12-day-long rainy spell and I'm trying to transport myself to sunnier places. Given that Mendoza gets only about 22 cm of rain (about 8 1/2 inches) a year, I think it qualifies.

The wine is the expected inky color, though it has lost some of its youthful blue hues. It's more of a garnet with just a hint of violet at the rim. The aromas are deep and almost earthy. There's a butteriness from oak, but only in the backrgound. The primary aromas are ripe red berries and forest floor, and something briary as well.

It's a touch buttery on the palate as well, but not overwhelmingly. This malbec suffers from none of the overt jammy fruits or overpowering alcohol of a number of malbecs, but is a lovely balance of fruit, tannin, acid, and heat. The finish is long and juicy. Words cannot express how badly I want a big slab of Argentinian beef at this moment. Alas, my dinner consists of a green salad with a poached egg and sweet potato. Dinner and wine are not in agreement. So I'll just finish the wine first.

Vintage: 2007
Grape: Malbec
Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $16